Problem: We have many people ask, “Why is my fan blower motor running all the time. My blower motor will not shut off?” “Why does my fan motor run continuously when I use my furnace?”
Answer: I found a real good Youtube video made by ACServicetech that explains 4 reasons why fan blower motors run continuously. In this video ACServicetech goes over why the Blower Fan Motor Won’t Shut off/Continuously Runs and some of the most common reasons why furnaces or air handlers have this problem. ACServicetech shows step by step Troubleshooting on how to figure out what is causing this problem. This is a great video that I would highly recommend that you watch if your fan motor is running continuously. Many thanks to ACServicetech for making this informative video! If you have any questions please feel free to email us anytime or respond in the comments section below. Our email address is: email@example.com
Questions: We have many people ask, “how can I find out why my fan blower motor is not working?” “Why does my fan motor not work when I turn on my furnace or air conditioner?”
Answer: I found a real good Youtube video made by ACServicetech that explains the top 10 reasons why fan blower motors will not come on. ACServicetech goes over what to look for in the system, components that fail most often, how to test the components, where to take readings with a multimeter as well as other tips! This is a great video that I would highly recommend that you watch if your fan blower will not come on. Many thanks to ACServicetech for making this informative video! If you have any questions please email us anytime. Our email address is: firstname.lastname@example.org. We would love to help you out and earn your business!
We have many customers ask how to find a low voltage short when the low voltage transformer is burning up or the fuse on the control board constantly blows? Most of the time I have found that shorts occur in the thermostat wires that go out to the outdoor condensing unit. Wear and tear of sun light, animals or weed eaters usually cause these shorts. I would suggest inspecting the thermostat wires for cracks, wear and tear. Pay close attention to where the thermostat wires go through the body of the furnace or air conditioning unit. Many times the thermostat wires will short out against the body of the furnace or air conditioner. I found this real good Youtube video on how to find low voltage shorts by ACservicetech. I hope this great Youtube Video will help you out in finding where the short is located. Thanks so much to ACservicetech for making this great video! If you have any questions please email us anytime: email@example.com
We had this question asked this week by a potential customer and I did not know what the word, “Protected” on air conditioner run capacitors meant until I researched it on the Internet. Our customer’s question was the following:
“The AC (Carrier) in our vacation home failed and needs a replacement. The original has the word PROTECTED stamped on its metal wall. I found a local supplier that has a new Capacitor that has the same spec except it does not have the PROTECTED stamp. My question is what does Protected entail and is it an essential when replacing a Capacitor.”
My answer: I really did not know what “Protected” meant until I started researching on the Internet and found the following answer on the HVAC Talk website. I opened a few of the capacitors that we sell and all of them say, “Protected” on them. The Titan Pro capacitors we sell say, “Protected 10,000AFC“. The following is what I found when I Googled the topic: “Its a safety rating. Some capacitors are designed so that if the cap short circuits and starts building up pressure inside the can the terminals will disconnect themselves from the internal connections to the cap plates. This opens the circuit before the can can burst or explodes. When you see the top of a capacitor can bulged out you can see that the terminals and plates inside the capacitor have pulled away from the plate connections in the can. I think circuit breakers carry the same ratings…..”
I would think that it is important to have a capacitor that has “protected” on it so it does not damage your equipment. If a capacitor is not protected then it could short out and damage other controls in an air conditioning system which could be very costly. All of the capacitors that we sell have “Protected” stamped on the body of the capacitor. We sell many different capacitors on the following page: Please click here to see the capacitors we sell. Thank you so very much for asking this question! This was a learning experience for me! Thanks! Steve Arnold
Water under the cooling coil can be caused by several things. (1) Most of the time it is caused by a stopped up condensate drain line and you should be able to blow compressed air through the line or take a wet vac and suck on the end of the condensate line to clear the clog. In severe cases sometimes the condensate line has to be cut with a saw or PVC cutter to remove the clog. I have also had to remove the evaporator coil covers to get to the coil drain pan and drain pan opening in order to clean the coil drain pan and condensate drain opening with a wet vac to get the coil drain unstopped and clean the coil drain pan while I have the evaporator coil open. I would suggest testing the coil drain pan with water by pouring water into the coil drain pan with a cup or bottle to make sure the drain is open before closing the evaporator coil back up. (2) Sometimes coil drain pans develop holes and you would need to repair the leak in the pan by using epoxy of silicone caulk. I would try to make sure the condensate drain line is open before checking to see if the evaporator coil drain pan is leaking. If the condensate drain line is open and you are not getting any water or not much water out of the condensate drain then more than likely you have a hole in the condensate drain pan. I have tried to repair the pans before with epoxy and silicone, but most of the time this fix will only last one or two years. If you have a leak in the evaporator coil drain pan I would recommend replacing the entire coil. Repairing the drain pan can be time consuming and like I said usually does not last long because the coil pan has probably deteriorated in other places. Most of the time the entire evaporator coil has to be removed to do the repair. I some cases I had my sheet metal man make a new coil pans, but removing the old coil with all the movement, screwing on a new coil pan and heating the refrigeration lines to reinstall the coil after the new pan has been installed can cause refrigerant leaks. In my opinion after many years it is best to get a whole new evaporator coil and be done with it. (3) water on the floor around an evaporator coil or furnace can also be caused by a system being low on refrigeration charge and freezing up because of being low on charge or having poor air flow. Most of the time if a coil freezes up it is caused by a low charge, but I have seen cases where a dirty filter, dirty evaporator coil, or slow blower motor (might need a new motor capacitor) have caused evaporator coils to freeze up melt and cause water on the floor. If your coil is freezing up I would suggest checking anything and everything that could cause poor air flow across the coil and if everything is clean call a service tech to check the refrigeration charge in your air conditioning or heat pump system. I hope I have given you some things to look for if you find water on the floor around the furnace or under the air conditioner air handler. If you have any other questions please ask anytime. Our email address is: firstname.lastname@example.org
Question: In May I started to have some problems with my outside ac unit. My fan stopped running but I could get it back running by spinning the blade when it hmmmmmed. Blade was easy to spin Called an AC Company to see what was wrong They said the fan motor was bad and put in a new fan motor and oval capacitor. But didn’t replace the dual capacitor said it didn’t need to be replace it was good. Ran good and cooled down the house good for about a mouth or so but started having the same problems. My fan stop running I could get it back running by spinning the blade when it hmmmmmed. Blade was easy to spin, but motor was hot to the touch Ac company came out again said it was a bad new motor. Company put in a new fan motor and oval capacitor but didn’t replace the dual capacitor said it didn’t need to be replaced that the capacitor was good. Ran good and cooled down the house good for about a mouth or so but started having the same problems. My fan stopped running but it’s hard to spin now and takes a couple of tries to spin when it hmmmmms. The motor was hot to the touch. Now the fan motor won’t start to spin by me spinning it at all. It is too hard to spin. Note: The motor is still hot to the touch. What could be possible wrong with my unit? Why does my fan motor keep burning up?
Answer: Hi! I am so sorry to hear that you are having all these problems with your fan motor. There are several things that can cause a fan motor to go out prematurely. I will list some of them below then you can assess whether any of these might be causing your fan motor to go out so often. 1. Installing a universal fan motor that is not matched correctly with the right RPM or horsepower to power the fan blade. Motor not matched to the diameter and pitch of the fan blade. Motors should be matched (RPM, Horsepower, Amps) with the fan blades or it will over-load the motor and the motor will fail soon. 2. Having a fan blade that is off-balance and causes vibration to the motor and unit. A new balanced blade would be best. 3. Installing a fan motor and capacitor where the capacitor does not match the specs on the label of the fan motor. The fan motor capacitor should match the specifications on the motor label. 4. Installing a fan motor where lots of moisture is present like from a leaking gutter or down spout. Water pours on to fan motor when it rains or when snow melts. 5. Not having the rain shield installed (when required) or leaving drain plugs open where water and moisture can get into the motor. Some motors have rain shields to prevent water from getting into the motor. Many universal motors do not have rain shields, but have drain plugs that can be opened or closed depending on how the motor is installed, horizontal, vertical, shaft up or shaft down. 6. Improper wiring. Where the motor is not wired according to the label on the motor. 7. Improper rotation of the fan blade. With the fan blade spinning in the wrong direction the motor will not load and it will burn up over time. 7. Grass, weeds, plants or children that stick into the fan blade path and stop or impede the fan motor when it is running. More than likely the HVAC company you had installed a universal fan motor. Many of these motors use an individual capacitor and this is why they did not hook into your existing dual capacitor. They probably are using the dual capacitor for the compressor only and the fan motor they installed has a separate single capacitor. I am just guessing. I am thinking that probably number 1 is probably the problem. That is why we mostly sell OEM fan motors so they will be matched with the fan blade and the customer has an easy time with the installation. If you would send your unit’s model number I will try to find out which OEM motor fits your unit. Our support email address is: email@example.com. We will be glad to try and help you out! Steve Arnold
Question: If I slow down the fan speed on my inside air handler will it effect the outside unit? I have a amana 14 seer heat pump.
Answer: I would not be recommended slowing down the fan speed on a heat pump unit because the indoor coil becomes the condensing unit in the winter and this might cause high head pressure thus damaging your heat pump unit. If you have gauges you could try to lower the speed and see if the head pressure goes up too high or not. There should be a graph type chart that is located inside the control box of your heat pump outdoor unit. On the paper it should show a graph with recommended pressures, both high and low pressures for different temperatures. If you can lower the fan speed and stay in the manufacturer’s recommendations then you should be OK.
Problem: Three times now copper pipe is cracking , loosing brazing inside next to compressor. The unit is not even one year old. Two licensed companies cannot solve problem. Need help thank you.
Answer: I am not a Goodman dealer. I only sell some parts for Goodman equipment. Are your service people using silver solder to braze the copper? If they are using silver solder to braze… then this should be very hard to break. Also maybe one of the mounts that hold the internal compressor motor in place have broke. If a motor mount has broken inside the compressor, then this will cause lots of vibration when the compressor is running and can cause problems with line breaks like you are having. If the motor mount on the compressor is broken you will need a new compressor to solve the problem. The compressor should be under warranty since it isn’t even a year old. Sorry that I can not be of more help.
Problem: I am looking for advice on a rental apt(900 sq ft) unit I own. This long time tenant is complaining of very high electric bills over the last couple years. While we have had a milder summer, I did notice that this tenants ac would not be running when all the others would. She said she was trying to keep the electric bill down. The unit is all electric. Trying to isolate the problem. Had an electrician come in and he indicated that the ac and all other appliances are using the correct amount of ampage that they should. The ac was checked this spring.
Going to call the ac guy back out. Had a problem with the condenser in june 2014. He had to pull the fan and rewire the condenser. I have a print out of their electric charges from 6/13 thru 7/15, and graphed them. Their electric costs in the summer months have doubled. Their winter cost have also gone up, but they have not doubled. Ameren here charges more per kwh in summer than winter. I am wondering if the rewiring of the condenser could cause this problem, and would it affect the electric furnace in any way to cause an increase in winter months. I am possibly looking to replace ac as it is over 20 years old. Not sure if I will have to replace furnace. Is there anything else that I could be checking – just don’t want to replace the ac and find it is not the problem. Electrician said to possibly have the meter checked. We verified with Ameren that it is the correct meter (no switched meter). Ameren said that they rarely have a meter go bad and when they do the meters usually go slower not faster.
Thank you for any suggestions you can give and I found your blog/website the most helpful in explaining things. Stacey
Answer: Hi! Thanks so much for your kind words and interest in our website! There are several reasons why a person can get a high cooling bill. I will try to explain some of the reasons below. High head pressure from a dirty coil (not enough air flow across the outdoor coil) or a condenser fan motor/ fan blade that is not sized right for the unit can cause an electric bill to go up because the compressor is working hard to condense the refrigerate. A dirty coil or not enough air flow across the outdoor coil can cause the unit to not cool well because it raises the temperature of the indoor coil as well as the outdoor coil. Rule of thumb is that the air coming out of the top of the outdoor condensing unit should be 30 degrees hotter than your ambient temperature. So on a 90 degree day the air coming out of the top of the unit should be 120 degrees. Low refrigerant charge or a refrigerant over-charge can cause a cooling utility bill to go way up. I would suggest that you make sure that the out door unit is clean. I usually turn the power off to the unit by shutting of the electricity to the unit and use a garden hose to wash the coil out. If possible take the fan top off and wash from the inside out. This should remove a lot of the dirty from the coil. I would suggest that you have an AC tech check the pressures of the low and high side with gauges to determine if the unit is charged properly and if the unit is running at normal pressures in comparison with the outdoor and indoor temperatures. I would suggest that you have the HVAC service tech check the amp flow on the unit with an amprobe and see how many amps of electricity the unit is using while running. The AC has a label on the side of the unit and the unit should not run over or most of the time not close to the FLA rating (Full Load Amp Rating). Many times high cooling bills can be caused by poor duct work design. The duct work might not be sized properly for the air conditioner or the duct work can be gaining heat from holes in the duct… maybe in the attic. Please make sure the duct work is sized properly for the air conditioning size you have installed. A good HVAC company should be able to do a heat gain and heat loss calculation for your rental home and tell you what size air conditioner and duct work should be installed for the home. Yes, there are many reasons that can cause a cooling bill to be high. I hope you can find out the problem without a lot of expense. I also hope that you have a great day! Steve Arnold, https://arnoldservice.com
Problem: We experienced low air flow in our vents so we changed our air filters, then looked at the unit in the attic to find that our evaporative coils were frozen and (what I think are insulation mats) located above and below the blower are being sucked in by the blower. We ran the fan alone with the ac off to defrost the coils but the insulation mats were still blocking the air flow. My question is what is the purpose of these mats and will our unit be okay without them? If they must be replaced, will we be able to purchase and replace it ourselves? Thanks for your time & may God bless all your endeavors!
Answer: Thanks so much for your blessings, interest in our website and the opportunity to do business with you! Thanks for asking a great question! Yes, I have seen what you describe happen several times before. The mats which are glued to the metal body of the furnace or air handler come lose and restrict the air flow going into the blower! The insulation mats are used to reduce noise and prevent heat or cold (winter time) transfer, build up inside your air handler. Without the mats you might get noisier blower air flow and you might get some heat entering the return from the hot metal duct work in your attic. The insulation keeps the heat out so that you do not get hot air pulled into the return. If it was me I would try to purchase some spray glue at home depot to re-attach the insulation pieces. Sheet metal shops use a special duct work insulation glue to glue the insulation in place. If the glue does not hold I would remove the inside insulation and insulate the duct work on the outside. Here in Louisville, KY it is HVAC code to have ducts insulated in unconditioned spaces like attics and crawl spaces. The insulation keeps the duct work from heat or cooling lose or gain. The supply lines are insulated to keep them from sweating water in the summer time. I hope you can easily get this fixed. I know that nothing is easy when working in the attic. Hope you can work up there in the early morning before it gets real hot! I hope that you have a blessed day and week!