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Question: Why does my AC capacitor fail so often? Every two years!

comparison good  bad oval capacitors

Question: Why does my air conditioner capacitor go out and fail so often? We are having to replace our capacitor about every two years? Why does my AC capacitor fail so often?

Answer: Air conditioner and heat pump capacitors going bad has been the number one problem for service calls in our business for many years! In this post, AC Service Tech and I tell you why capacitors go out so often. There are 4 reasons why capacitors go out so often. We hope this post will help you understand what makes capacitors fail and hope this helps make your capacitor last longer. It is always a good idea to have an extra capacitor on hand in case one fails on a hot summer day or night. We sell capacitors on the following page: Please click here to see the capacitors that we sellAC Service Tech made an excellent YouTube video below that explains why capacitors fail. Thanks so much, AC Service Tech for making this excellent video! Here are 4 reasons why capacitors fail so often:

  1. High Heat causes the oil (dielectric fluid) inside the capacitor to get hot and expand which causes the capacitor to fail. If the shroud of your air conditioner is out in the hot sunny side of your home that receives lots of heat then this can cause the capacitor to fail.  A sure sign that shows that a capacitor has failed is an expanded mushroomed topped capacitor where the top or bottom of the capacitor is mushroomed and is expanded out. Some capacitors leak the dielectric fluid out after they have failed.
  2. Capacitors do have a life span. The life span of the capacitor is limited and depends on the operating temperature to which the capacitor is being exposed. A capacitor that is exposed to High heat will have a shorter life span. When you test a capacitor and see that the MFD/uf rating is lower than the specs on the capacitor then this is what has happened the heat over time has caused the capacitor to lose its value.
  3. If you exceed the voltage rating that is listed on the capacitor then this will hurt the capacitor.  If you have a voltage spike or a lightning strike then this will destroy a capacitor.
  4. Bad rusty loose connections can destroy a capacitor because loose connections cause high heat and arcing. I have seen where the terminals are burnt off on capacitor connections.

If you have any questions please comment below or email us at arnoldservice@gmail.com  We Would Love to try and help You out! 

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Problem: My Heat Pump Defrost Control Board is Bad. Can I Bypass the Defrost Control Board to Get Cooling?

happy ac

Problem: My heat pump defrost control board is bad. I can not use my heat pump because the defrost control board is bad. We are burning up in our home without air conditioning. Techs are days behind before they can come and fix our problem. It will be days before we receive a new defrost board replacement because of shipping time. Is there any way that I can bypass the defrost control board so we can get the air conditioning to cool our home?  Please help if you can!

Answer:  Yes! I can help! We have this question asked quite often so I decided to write a post on how to temporarily bypass a heat pump defrost control board so people can get their air conditioning working again. If you are good with your hands and know a little about electrical wiring then you should be able to bypass the heat pump defrost board. We have two really good YouTube videos that explain how to bypass a heat pump defrost board to allow for cooling or to allow for the air conditioning to work.  The first video was made by SuperCool Slide Rule. The second YouTube video was made by AC Service Tech LLC. Thanks to SuperCool Slide Rule and AC Service Tech LLC for making these great educational and informative videos!  I have the steps written down step by step below. If you need a new heat pump defrost control board then we sell many different name brand defrost control boards on the following page: Please click here if you are interested in the defrost control boards that we sell.  If you have any questions or would like for us to look up any parts then please email us anytime or comment below. Our email address is arnoldservice@gmail.com We Would Love to try and Help You Out and Earn Your Business! 

*Disclaimer: Arnold’s Service Company, Inc. assumes no liability for any incidental, consequential, or other liability from the use of this information. All risks and damages, incidental or otherwise, arising from the use or misuse of the information contained herein are entirely the responsibility of the user. Although careful precaution has been taken in the preparation of this website’s information, we assume no responsibility for omissions or errors.

Steps to bypass a heat pump defrost control board are:

  1. Turn off both high voltage and low voltage power by pulling the unit’s disconnect and turning the indoor air handler off. Test with a voltmeter set to “Volts AC” to make sure the power is off.
  2. I recommend taking a picture of how the defrost control board is wired before you make any changes to the board.
  3. For the heat pump to cool you will need to energize or have working three parts of the heat pump. (1) 220-volt condenser fan (2) the 24-volt contactor and the 24-volt reversing valve. Most heat pumps have the reversing valve energized in the cooling mode except Rheem and Ruud units. If you have a Rheem or Ruud unit then you would not need to do the part about energizing the reversing valve. 
  4. Identify the outdoor condensing fan relay and join the two fan relay wires together so that the outdoor condensing unit’s fan will run. Tape, insulate, and secure the two high voltage (210-245 volt) wires so that the wires do not touch or ground out to the body of your heat pump unit.
  5.  There are two low voltage wires that go to the 24-volt coil on the contactor. Disconnect, insulated, and secure the two existing wires from the contactor. I think it would be best to run two new wires to the 24-volt contactor coil.  One new wire on the power side of the contactor coil and one common “C” or ground wire on the opposite side of the power wire on the contactor.
  6. Join and wire nut together with the hot yellow (Y) wire that comes from the thermostat to one of the wires that go to the contactor (to energize the contactor) and the yellow (Y) wire should also be attached to the reversing valve orange wire. I would trace the low voltage wires down to make sure that you have the right wires that are going to both the contactor and reversing valve.  The contactor should have two wires (power and C) and the reversing valve should have two wires (power and C).
  7. FYI- To energize both the contactor and reversing valve the contactor has two low voltage wires that go to the contactor coil and the reversing valve should have two low voltage wires that go to the reversing valve coil. One of the two wires that go to both the contactor and reversing valve is the power wire which we will attach to the “Y” thermostat wire. The indoor thermostat when the thermostat calls for heat pump cooling takes the R (red wire from the 24-volt indoor transformer) and makes the connection to the “Y” wire to energize the contactor and make the contactor close. The other two wires from both the contactor coil and reversing valve coil is the C or called the common wire. For each device to be energized there must be a power wire “Y” and a C common wire attached.
  8. So we want to energize the fan, the contactor, and reversing valve in order to bypass the defrost control board. Next, you would want to connect the common wires together to the common side of the contactor and reversing valve. Join, and wire nut together with the other two contactor and reversing valve common wires.  Most of the time the blue thermostat wire is the common (C) wire. I would recommend that you take the cover off your thermostat and make sure and see which wire color is connected to the “C” “Com” connection on your thermostat. You would never want to directly connect the R and C terminals together because this would produce a direct short to ground and burn up many of the heat pump system’s low voltage controls if they are not protected by a low voltage fuse. 
  9. As a review: You should have two wires connected to the Y “Yellow” wire. One of the wires attached to the Y wire would go to one side of the contactor to provide power for the contactor and the other wire would go to the reversing valve to provide power for the reversing valve when your thermostat calls for cooling. The other common wire from your thermostat (you would need to make sure you have the right color for the wire that is attached to the C  “COM” of your thermostat). Two wires would be attached to this C common wire from your thermostat.  You would attach one of the wires to the C common side of the contactor and the other wire to the C common side of the reversing valve.  You should be ready to apply power and test. Best of luck. This should work if wired correctly.


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Question: Do I Really Need a New AC Unit?

happy ac

Question: My HVAC contractor said that I need a new air conditioning system. I was not home for him to show me why I need a new system. Is there any way that I can test and make sure that I really need a new air conditioning system? Do I really need a new air conditioning system?

Answer: Yes! We have a YouTube video made by AC Service Tech LLC that explains how to test and make sure that you need a new unit or not.  I have listed the step-by-step troubleshooting steps and tests below if you do not want to watch the video.  A multimeter is required for testing and troubleshooting the unit. We sell a really good multimeter on the following page. Please click here if you are interested in the multimeter that we sell.

Here are the steps in troubleshooting if you do not want to watch the 6-minute video. Many of the steps below involve working with high voltage electricity in testing with a multimeter. If you are uncomfortable in working with live electricity then I would recommend leaving this to a professional. Bodily Injury or death can occur if mistakes are made!

  1. Arrive at the unit and pull the disconnect to disconnect power to the unit.
  2. Test the disconnect with a multimeter set to “Volts AC” to make sure power is getting to the disconnect. You should have between 210 to 250 volts at the disconnect. Always make sure you are careful to not get grounded out or shocked.
  3. Take the control panel cover off the AC unit.
  4. Plug the disconnect back in and test between L1 and L2 at the contactor to make sure that the wires that come from the disconnect are supplying 220 volts to the contactor.
  5. Push in on the contactor with an insulated screwdriver to see if the compressor or fan turns on.
  6. In the video, the fan turns on when the contactor is pushed in, but the compressor is not coming on.
  7. Use the Amprobe multimeter to see what the amp draw is on the compressor when the contactor plunger is pressed in.
  8. In the video, the compressor is running high amperage when it tries to start over 60 amps and the compressor will not start.  This shows that the compressor is locked up and that the compressor has a major problem.  The problem could be a bad or weak capacitor, broken or burnt wires, grounded out, or open compressor windings. We will need to test to see where the problem is located with the compressor.
  9. Turn the power off to the unit at the disconnect and make sure the high voltage power is off. Disconnect the wires off the capacitor and test the capacitor with a capacitor tester to make sure that the capacitor is in good condition. If the capacitor is bad replace it.
  10. Disconnect the Start, Run, and common compressor wires off the contactor and capacitor. Test to see the ohm readings between the wires and test to see if the compressor windings are grounding out. If the ohm readings are not right or if the compressor is grounding out then yes, you will need a new unit or compressor.
  11. In the video, two connections on the compressor are burned completely off and all the refrigerant has escaped. Yes, you would need a new unit or compressor in this case. If you have any questions please email us anytime at arnoldservice@gmail.com
  12. We would love to try and help you and earn your business!


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Problem: My AC Unit Will Not Turn On or Run. What could be the problem?

happy ac

Problem: My AC unit or heat pump will not turn on or run. What could be the problem? Could you tell me how to get my air conditioner working again?

Answer: Many people have this problem where their air conditioner or heat pump will not turn on. The AC will not turn on. Nothing happens at the outdoor unit. We have a really good YouTube Video made by AC Service Tech LLC that explains the top 10 problems that are mostly found when an air conditioner or heat pump will not turn on.  I also have the 10 problems written down if you do not have time to watch the video. Thanks so very much to Craig Marciano for making this excellent video! Here is the list of the top 10 reasons why air conditioners or heat pumps will not turn on. If you have any questions please comment below or email us at arnoldservice@gmail.com We would love to try and help you out and earn your business!

*Always make sure that the electric power is turned off before working on an Air Conditioner or Heat Pump System. 

  1. No power at the contactor due to a blown fuse or circuit breaker being tripped. You should check the voltage at the outdoor unit’s contactor to see if you are getting voltage between L1 and L2 of the contactor. We sell a really good test meter on the following page. Please click here if you are interested in a really good testing Multimeter. We also have another really good meter on this page. 
  2. Bad power supply problem. You could have a bad or blown low voltage transformer or the power going to the transformer might be out. Please click here if you are interested in the transformers that we sell. 
  3. Having a bad capacitor. We sell over 80 different capacitors on the following page. Please click here if you are interested in the capacitor we sell. 
  4. The contacts on the contactor are burnt or bad. You might need a new contactor or clean the contactor. Please click here if you are interested in the contactors that we sell
  5. The unit might have a bad contactor coil. The video shows how to test the contactor coil.
  6. Might have a low-pressure switch that has electrically opened due to a low refrigerant charge, refrigerant leak. You would need to install gauges to see if your unit is low on refrigerant charge and find and fix the leak if the system is low on charge.
  7. You might have a bad thermostat connection from the indoor unit to the outdoor unit.  A weed eater or animal may have chewed through the wires or you might have loose wire connections at the unit, thermostat, or control board. You might have to run a new thermostat wire.
  8. The next 3 problems are when the indoor blower motor is not turning out so you have to focus your attention on the indoor unit.  The thermostat may look like it is on, but the indoor unit is off. Many thermostats are powered by batteries and this can give you a false visual feeling that the power is on, but really the power is not on. Make sure the power switch for the furnace is in the ON position and make sure the furnace blower door is latched tight.  Make sure the power on the breaker box to the furnace is turned on.
  9. Is that an emergency safety switch on the condensate pump or on the condensate over-flow float switch that has cut the low voltage power off to the furnace and thermostat.
  10. A bad thermostat wire, a bad thermostat, or a bad low voltage fuse on the control board.


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Question: What can I do to make my air conditioner last longer? Any maintenance tips?

dirty AC coil

Questions: What can I do to make my air conditioner or heat pump last longer? What can I do to make sure my air conditioner is ready to go for the summer? Do you have any maintenance tips or advice?

Answer: Yes! The homeowner DIY person can do many maintenance checks and jobs to make sure the air conditioner or heat pump is ready to go for the summer.  We have a video below made by Word of Advice TV that shows 15 maintenance tips that will help you make sure that your AC or heat pump is ready to go for the summer. Doing these maintenance tips will help to make sure that your unit is ready to go for the summer and prolong the life of your air conditioner or heat pump. We have the 15 tips written below if you do not want to watch the video. If you have any questions please feel free to email us at arnoldservice@gmail.com or comment below in the comments section. Thanks so very much for visiting our site!  Steve & Barbara Arnold

The 15 air conditioner or heat pump maintenance tips are:

  1. Uncover the condensing unit (if you cover it up in the wintertime).  Make sure that you have at least 12″ of clearance around the unit. If you have any tall grass, weeds or bushes then trim those back.
  2. Thoroughly clean the condensing coil with a water hose with a nozzle on the end. *Make sure that you turn the unit off at the electrical disconnect or breaker box before using water on the condenser. As you know water and electricity do not mix. Make sure that the water force from the hose nozzle is not too strong or it could damage the coils. It is best to clean the coil from the inside out if possible. If you feel uncomfortable removing the top to clean for the inside out then cleaning from the outside in will be fine.
  3. Check for animal nests and inspect the wiring for damaged burnt chewed wires or connections. Repair any burnt or loose wire connections. Clean any animal nests out.
  4. Check the capacitor for swelling or damage. Have an extra capacitor on hand in case your capacitor goes out during the hot summer cooling season. We sell capacitors on the following page: Please click here if you would like to see the capacitors we sell. 
  5. Check the contactor to make sure that the contactor contacts are not burnt or pitted. If you need a contactor we sell contactors on the following page: Please click here if you would like to see the contactors that we sell. 
  6. Check the suction line insulation to make sure it is not torn or missing.
  7. Try to keep the condensing unit as level as possible.
  8. Test run your air conditioner early in the cooling season to make sure it is running right. The outside temperature should be above 70 degrees before testing.
  9. Kick start the condenser fan for the season. You might try turning the condenser fan (unit turned off, electricity off) with a long screwdriver to make sure the motor bearings are not tight from sitting all winter.  Many times I have seen condenser motors get destroyed if the motor bearings are locked up from sitting all winter.  Make sure the fan blade and bearings are free to spin before turning your unit on. We sell condenser fan motors on the following page if you need one. Please click here if you would like to see the air conditioner condenser fan motors that we sell.
  10. Take a temperature drop to see if the Air conditioner is cooling properly. Check the bare part of the suction line (large line) by feeling with your fingers to make sure cool gas is going back to keep the compressor running cool. If your suction line is not cold after running for at least 15 minutes then your system might be low on refrigerant charge and you would need to check the charge with gauges or call someone in to make sure your system is charged up properly.  From my experience (over 30 years) systems that are not charged up properly is the biggest cause for compressor burnout and failure. I would recommend that you check by feel monthly to make sure that cool gas (the suction line is cool/cold) to make sure that your unit is staying charged up properly.
  11. Clean evaporator coil drain line and make sure fittings are not loose or leaking.
  12. Make sure that your air filter is clean and change it regularly.
  13. Turn off the power to your furnace or air handler and make sure the blower wheel is clean.  Check the blower motor capacitor and make sure that it is in good condition.
  14. Turn the humidifier off and close your humidifier damper (if equipped)
  15. Make sure all your vents and returns are open and clear. Make sure that furniture or objects are not blocking the return of vents.
  16. It is a good idea to replace your thermostat batteries (if your thermostat has batteries).

I hope that you enjoy the video below that was made by Word of Advice TV! 
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Problem: How can I find my run capacitor size and voltage if the ratings are worn off?

rusty capacitor

Problem: My air conditioner’s fan and compressor have stopped working! My capacitor looks bad. Really bad and rusty all over! I can not read the specifications on the capacitor to know which capacitor to purchase. How can I find out what size capacitor that I need for my condenser fan and compressor?

Answer: We have this question asked many times. I have had this problem several times when I was doing air conditioning service. The Air conditioning unit’s capacitor needs to be replaced, but the capacitor is so rusty or the label is missing! I have had to ask myself, how in the world do I determine what is the right capacitor replacement size when I can not read the specifications of the old capacitor?  We have a really good YouTube video below that was made by AC Service Tech LLC that explains how to determine the right capacitor size when the capacitor specifications are worn off. Thanks to the AC Service Tech Channel for making this great video! AC Service tech explains in the video that you can get the capacitor size for the motor off the motor label and the compressor capacitor size by using Google or another search engine to find the compressor model number and capacitor size. The two most popular compressor manufacturers are Copeland and Bristol. Please click here if you would like to see a PDF Copeland Compressor Product Guide that shows the capacitor sizes for many of the Copeland compressors. Please click here if you would like to see a PDF Bristol Compressor Product Guide that shows the capacitor sizes for many of the Bristol Compressors. If you need a capacitor we would love to help you out! We sell over 80 different name-brand capacitors on the following page: Please click here to see the capacitors we sell. If you have any questions or if you would like for us to look up a capacitor or part for your AC or furnace please send us your unit’s model number and we will be glad to try and help you out. Our email is arnoldservice@gmail.com


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Question: Where should I look for refrigerant leaks on my AC unit?

ultrasonic leak detector

Question: My air conditioning system is leaking refrigerant somewhere? Every year we have to call an HVAC company to charge our system which is quite expensive! Where should I look for refrigerant leaks on my AC unit? Where are the most common places in the air conditioning system where leaks are found most often?

Answer: We have this question asked quite often. Finding refrigerant leaks is probably the most difficult joy that an HVAC tech has to do. Refrigerant leaks can be found in easy to see places or in almost impossible to see places. When I was doing HVAC service work if I did not see any leaks (oily spots) on the outdoor unit or oily spots on the refrigerant line set I would inject fluorescent dye in the system, allow the dye to circulate for a few days then come back with a black light in dark conditions to try and find the leak. Most leaks that I found were in the indoor evaporator coil. The dye was good but time-consuming. It was good that I could show the customer where the leak/leaks were, but bad that I had to make two trips and spend lots of time uncovering the evaporator coil to see the leaks. Probably 90% of the time the customer needed a new evaporator coil to stop the leaks. Below we have a really good YouTube video made by AC Service Tech LLC that explains and shows the top 10 spots where air conditioner leaks occur most often. Thanks so very much to AC Service Tech LLC for making this excellent YouTube Video! AC Service Tech uses an ultrasonic leak detector to find many of the leaks in this video. I sure wish they had ultrasonic leak detectors when I was doing service work. Those ultrasonic leak detectors are not cheap about $450 to $600, but seem to be really good!  Here is the written list of the 10 most common spots where refrigerant leaks are found. The YouTube video is really good at explaining these leaky areas in more detail. If you have any questions please comment below or email us anytime arnoldservice@gmail.com We would love to help you out and earn your business!

Here are the top 10 spots where leaks in air conditioners and heat pump occur most often:

  1. Leaking Shrader valve caps or sometimes called Schrader valve cores. Make sure the Schrader valve caps are in good condition. We sell a set of 10 really good Schrader valve caps on the following page. Please click here if you are interested in seeing the Schrader valve caps that we sell.
  2. Leaking on the indoor evaporator coil where the tubing goes through the galvanized tin.
  3. Leaking in the joints of the evaporator coil tubing where the tubing is brazed together.
  4. Leaking in the refrigerant distributor tubes at the evaporator coil.
  5. Leaking in the middle of the tubing in the evaporator coil. The tubing is extremely thin.
  6. Leaking “O” rings on the outdoor service valves.
  7. Leaking outdoor condenser coil.
  8. Leaking filter driers where brazing has burnt the paint off the drier and rusted over time. Poor brazing on the filter driers.
  9. Leaking accumulator tank. Some AC units and many heat pumps have accumulators than are prone to rusting and leaking.
  10. Leaking bottom tubes on the condenser coil where leaves and debris have been allowed to accumulate causing the tubing to rot and leak.


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Question: Is it OK to allow my HVAC contractor to by-pass my AC’s High-Pressures Switch?

air conditioner high pressure safety switches

Question: Is it OK to allow my HVAC contractor to by-pass my air conditioning unit’s high-pressure switch? We have had several contractor call-backs because our unit continues to trip our high-pressure switch. This happens routinely, each summer. The latest incident, the technician came and reset the switch after noting that all pressure levels were good, coils clean, and no apparent blockages. The unit shut down again, about 30 minutes after he left.  The second technician came the following day, ran a full diagnostic of the furnace and air conditioning system, and reported that “sometimes these switches are just bad, and trip for no reason.”  He by-passed the high-pressure switch- after discussion, and he was concerned that it would happen again in short order. Now, I’m wondering whether to replace the high-pressure switch or leave it by-passed?  Old Lennox unit. (Pulse 21) The compressor has been replaced, the capacitor is new. I would be very interested in your opinion?

Answer: We have a post that explains why AC’s high-pressure switches trip sometime on the following page: https://arnoldservice.com/problem-my-outdoor-air-conditioning-units-high-pressure-switch-trips-ever-so-often-why-does-it-high-pressure-switch-trip-so-often/ Most of the time high-pressure switches trip because the condenser fan motor stops or is running too slow When the fan motor stops or runs slow the unit will produce high pressure and the unit will trip the high-pressure switch to protect the compressor from being damaged. This could be also caused by a restriction in your refrigeration cycle like dirt or moisture in the system. A bad TXV (thermal expansion valve) can also cause high-pressure switches to trip. Most contractors do not want to replace high-pressure switches because it is quite time-consuming and expensive for the homeowner. It is also not a good idea to open up the refrigeration system that exposes the system to air, dirt, and moisture. The worst enemies of the refrigeration system are air, dirt, and moisture.  In replacing a high-pressure switch the contractor would need to reclaim the refrigerant, cut the old, bad high-pressure switch out, and braze in a new high-pressure switch in. Install a new filter drier, test for leaks, evacuate the system for at least an hour with a vacuum pump then charge the system back up with refrigerant and test the operation. Yes! this is very time-consuming.  Hopefully, they installed filters driers and evacuated your system when they replaced your compressor. Any moisture in the system can freeze up after running a while then cause a restriction in the system and cause the high-pressure switch to go off. I would recommend that you keep a close eye and ear on your AC to make sure that the fan continues to run properly and you are not getting a restriction in your system. The unit will start sounding funny and will sound loud if the fan stops and if there is a restriction in your system. Your service tech needs to make sure that your AC system is not creating a high head pressure condition before bypassing the high-pressure switch. I would only recommend by-passing the high-pressure switch if your air conditioner is old over 15 years and the contractor is confident the problem is with the high-pressure switch and not some other problem in your AC system. If your unit is going off on high pressure then this will cause the compressor to overheat. The compressor is thermally protected and the thermal protection will cut the compressor off temporarily until the compressor cools down then the compressor will start again. The problem is that the thermal protection switch inside the compressor will only reset so many times. When the thermal protection switch is worn out then the compressor is bad and you would need to get a new compressor or a new air conditioning unit. I hope this helps in answering your question. Below we have a really good YouTube video on how high-pressure switches work and how to troubleshoot high-pressure switches. Thanks so very much to AC Service Tech LLC for making this video.  God Bless You and Your Family Today and Always! Steve

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Problem My Air Conditioner Is Not Cooling My House? 20 Reasons Why

happy ac

Problem: We have many people ask us this general question, “Why is my air conditioner not cooling my house? I set my thermostat on 72 and our AC never reaches the 72-degree temperature!”

Answer: There are many reasons why your air conditioner or heat pump might not be cooling your home properly. We have a really good YouTube video made by Word of Advice TV that explains in detail 20 reasons why that an air conditioner or heat pump will not cool your home. Thanks so very much to Word of Advice TV for making this great video! I list the 20 reasons below, but the video does a much better job of explaining.

Here are the 20 reasons:

  1. Outdoor unit not running at all. Please click here to see how to troubleshoot when the AC will not come on at all. 
  2. The unit has a bad, weak, or dead capacitor. Please click here to see the new capacitors that we sell.
  3. The unit has a locked-up compressor.  We sell compressor hard start boosters that might help free a locked up compressor on the following page: Please click here to see the compressor hard start boosters that we sell. 
  4. The unit has a bad condenser fan motor. We sell condenser fan motors on the following page: Please click here to see the condenser fan motors that we sell: 
  5. A dirty furnace or a dirty air handler filter. A dirty filter will restrict airflow and cause freeze-ups and other problems.
  6. A plugged or dirty evaporator coil. If the evaporator coil is dirty it will restrict airflow and cause freeze-ups. Many coils will accumulate dirt, lint and hair on the underside of the coil. The evaporator coil needs to be inspected and cleaned if dirty. Please click here if you are interested in some evaporator coil cleaner that we sell.
  7. A dirty outdoor condenser coil. If the outdoor coil is dirty it will cause the unit to run at high pressure and cooling will be greatly reduced! We need to have a clean condenser coil for the AC unit to be able to do its job and run properly. Please click here if you are interested in some condenser coil cleaner that we sell. 
  8. Dirty return grill. Make sure that your air conditioner return registers are not blocked with furniture, dirty, or lint.
  9. Bad or malfunctioning thermostat or thermostat batteries. Yes, make sure that the batteries are in good condition.
  10. Programmable thermostat problem where the programmable thermostat is not set to the right program. This makes you feel like the thermostat has a mind of its own or is haunted! Ha! To over-ride most programmable thermostats just push the “Hold” button and then the desired temperature that you want.
  11. The homeowner waits too long to turn the AC on and the AC can not catch up in cooling the home for a long time because the home started out too hot. For example, If a homeowner waits until the home gets to 85 degrees on a 95-degree day then it can cause the AC to run probably all day long and most of the night to cool the home down.
  12. The unit is low on Freon or refrigerant. Of course, the AC can not cool properly if the unit is low on refrigerant charge. You or a service tech would need to attach gauges and temp sensors to make sure that your unit is charged properly.
  13. Leaks in the ductwork can cause the air conditioner to not cool properly. We would suggest inspecting your ductwork to make sure there are no leaks in the ductwork. You may need to go into the attic, crawl space, or basement to inspect the ducts. We sell some really good foil duct tape on the following page: Please click here if you would like to see the duct tape that we recommend and sell.
  14. An under-sized unit can cause a unit to not cool properly. A Manual J heat gain and heat loss calculation should be completed before any air conditioning system is installed. The Manual J calculation will tell the homeowner how much heat is lost in the wintertime and how much heat is gained in the wintertime so the homeowner and contractor can install the right size furnace and air conditioner.  The Manual J calculations take into consideration many variables that are calculated on most of the time a computer program the contractor has. The Manual J calculation considers the number of windows, doors, what kind of windows and doors, the R values, the amount of insulation, which direction the home is facing, and whether or not the home is brick or vinyl siding.  This Manual J calculation is very important so that the homeowner knows he/she is getting the right size furnace and air conditioner.
  15. An Air to Air or HVR (heat vent recovery) system that is running all the time can cause a home to not cool properly. If you have an HVR system I would recommend making sure that it is running properly.
  16. Open windows or doors. This is common sense to have windows and doors closed. Heat travels from hot to cold so if a door or window is open the outdoor heat will seak to enter a cool house.
  17. A bad air conditioning installation job or a hack job where the contactor or installer did not know what they were doing and did not install the AC system right.
  18. Bad zone controllers or bad dampers. Make sure that if you do have zone controllers and dampers that they are opening and closing properly. If you have a manually controlled damper like in the pictures below make sure that the dampers are open on all your duct runs so that air can circulate through the duct and into your home. Many times I will find that the dampers are loose and have become closed thus restricting airflow! On most round duct dampers if the handle is parallel with the duct run then the damper is open. If the handle is perpendicular with the duct run then the damper is closed.

19. A poorly vented attic where the roof vents are stopped up with insulation or are nonexistent. A poorly vented attic causes a tremendous build of heat that can be transferred into the homes living space. Make sure that the attic is vented properly.

20. A poorly insulated house can cause heat to enter and leave the home. Make sure that you have enough insulation in your home to stop so much heat gain in the summer and heat loss in the winter.

 

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How Do I Bypass My Thermostat to see if the Thermostat is Bad?

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Problem: My air conditioner or furnace will not work. Is there a way to test the thermostat to see if the thermostat is the problem? Can I bypass my thermostat to see if the thermostat is bad?

Answer: We have this question asked many times. The first thing that I would like to suggest that you do would be to make sure that if your thermostat uses batteries to make sure the batteries are in good condition. Also, make sure that the power switch on the side of the furnace is turned on. We have seen many preventable service calls where all our customers had to do was flip the power switch on the side of the furnace! With the furnace door’s safety switch taped down and with the furnace’s power switch turned ON use a voltmeter set to “Volts AC” and test between R and C (com) terminals on the furnace’s control board. You should get 24 to 28 volts AC (alternating current) between R and C on your furnace’s or air handler’s control board. If you are not getting 24 volts AC then you might have a blown fuse on the control board/transformer or a burnt-out low voltage transformer. We sell low voltage transformers on the following page: Please click here to see the low voltage transformers we sell. 

If everything checks out on the low voltage side then you can test to see if the thermostat is at fault by bypassing the thermostat. Bypassing the thermostat is a great way to troubleshoot the thermostat to see if the thermostat is at fault. We have a really good YouTube video from Word of Advice TV that explains in detail how to bypass the thermostat to see if the thermostat is bad. Thanks so very much to Word of Advice TV for making this informative, excellent video. If you have any questions please email us anytime. Our email address is arnoldservice@gmail.com  If you would like to comment then please feel free to comment in the comments section below. We Would Love to Help You Out and Earn Your Business! 

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