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Problem: Why do I have to replace my furnace ignitor every two weeks?


I was lead your way and was told you could help.  
 I have a question. I have 2 units. On 1 of the units, the hot surface igniter keeps going bad. I replace it, and it will work for a couple weeks or so and go bad, I replace it and same thing. To check to make sure they are bad, I put the one I think is bad in unit that works and it does not ignite, I put the got igniter in the bad unit and it works. What could be causing the unit to keep burning out igniters? I am careful when installing it, making sure I don’t touch the igniter surface and making sure it doesn’t touch any other surface so it doesn’t get scratched or anything.  During the summer the a/c works with no problems.
Thank you in advance Glen

Hi Glen!
Sorry to hear that you are going through all the ignitors. That can get real expensive! Most of the time when ignitors go bad that often it is because the ignitor is not shutting off after the gas in the furnace is ignited. If the ignitor stays on for an extended period of time this will make the ignitor short-lived. Other problems that would cause ignitors to go out would be dirt or rust falling down on top of the ignitor especially when the ignitor is laying horizontal. Another problem would be if you have a Trane or American Standard furnace with an IGN00145 ignitor, which is an 80 volt ignitor and the control board is providing over 110 volts to the ignitor then you probably need a new control board. Too much voltage to an 80 volt ignitor will burn them out quickly. I hope you can get this problem solved. Most ignitors should last many years. I hope you have a blessed Holiday Season!
Steve Arnold,

14 thoughts on “Problem: Why do I have to replace my furnace ignitor every two weeks?

  1. I think I have this exact problem. The control board on my Trane XR80 was replaced and was connected with our old 80-v ignitor. Do you know which adapter I need to connect the 120V IGN00152 ignitor? Thank you!

  2. Hello Steve
    It was the smartvalve. It controls the ignitor, senses heat with sensor and then turns ignitor off, after pilot is lit then main gas opens and lights, the main board is notified and after a time the main blower comes on.

    1. Great! Awesome! Glad that you found the problem and were able to fix it. Thanks so much for taking the time to let me know what your problem was. I hope you have a great and blessed New Year! Steve

  3. Hello Steve,
    I also had other issues but I am certain the smart valve controls the ignitor and when it deenergizes. Replace the ignitor and sensor and it all works correctly now. Thank you for you reply and have a Merry Christmas

    1. Great Gary! Glad to hear that you found the problem and got your furnace fixed. Merry Christmas to you and your family as well! Steve

  4. Am having the same experience with my LuxAire Furnace. Thought I was so smart replacing the ignitor. It worked for three weeks and then last night, it went out, just as temperature outside plummeted to 23 degrees F. Am ordering a new one as well as a silicone nitride upgrade to see if that fixes it. I do not know if the ignitor stayed on because I didn’t watch it past the lighting phase. I guess I will have to when I get the new carbide one in. If it does, how hard is it to change the control board on an older model LuxAire?

    1. Hi John! I am sorry, but I have never changed a control board on a luxaire so I can not advise. I would like to suggest that you take a picture before removing the wires on the old control board so you can compare where the wires go on the new control board. Yes, I would make sure that the ignitor is turning off shortly after your gas ignites so it does not burn up another ignitor real quick. I hope you have a great day! Steve

  5. Hello, Again Steve,
    Looks like you were right!
    I recently had my furnace serviced and had mentioned to the tech that I was burning through hot surface ignitors at the rate of 3 to 4 every heating season. He checked with Trane/American Standard and determined the unit shipped to my home had been upgraded with the board that uses the 120V ignitor. The adapter cable that mates the existing wiring harness with the 120Volt ignitor (IGN00152) was left out, so they just installed the 80V ignitor (IGN00145) and shipped it out. It sounds like a real factory-build screw-up! Anyway, I’m happy we finally got to the bottom of this. Just to be on the safe side, I placed an order with you for an IGN00152 earlier this evening just to have it on hand if needed. I’m told the IGN00152 typically lasts about 10 years. Thanks again for all your help.

    1. Good Morning Larry! I am so glad to hear that you found out why your furnace was going through so many ignitors! Fantastic! I bet there are a lot of people out there that are having the same problem you had with a Trane, American Standard 120-volt control board using an IGN00145 80-volt ignitor. Thank you so very much for allowing me to post what you found your problem to be with ignitors going out so often! God Bless you and your family today and always! Steve

  6. Hello, the ignitor on my furnace keeps glowing even after the gas is lit and stays on throughout the heating cycle, and yes we have to replace it at least once a year. how can it be fixed to only stay on for the initial portion of the heating cycle?

    1. Hi Bea! More than likely you need a new control board to fix the problem because the ignitor relay on the control board is staying closed. I do not see how that you are not going through an ignitor every month with the ignitor staying on all the time. If you want me to look up parts please send me your furnace’s model number to our email address and I will be glad to look it up for you. Our email is: Hope you have a great day! Steve

      1. Hello Steve, I also am having the same issue with my igniter staying on all the time. Its a ceramic IG9500 igniter. Its controlled by the SV9501M2056 smartvalve. I originally replace the main circuit board but not change. I replace the smart valve and am still having the same issue. I have 24v supplying the igniter so im sure that’s not the issue. I am at a lose because I have replace everything that could be the cause. Any ideas whatsoever would be helpful

      2. Hi Gary! I am sorry, but I do not know much about how to troubleshoot Honeywell Smartvalves. We have a post and a Youtube video on the following page: Do you have the right ignitor flame rod assembly for your Smart valve? If this is not the OEM ignitor then you might try an OEM flame rod assembly like we sell on the following page: We also have a Youtube troubleshooting video on that page. I hope the videos will help you find and fix the problem fast. God bless you and your family today and always! Steve

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