Posted on

Problem: Furnace will not ignite. Ignitor will not glow.

Problem: Furnace will not ignite the gas to produce heat for your home. The furnace hot surface ignitor does not glow. When a furnace has a bad ignitor. This is what I see in the furnace sequence of operation:

1. Thermostat calls for heat.

2. Draft inducer motor starts.

3. Pressure switch attached by a small plastic or rubber tube senses the negative pressure produced by the draft inducer and closes.

4. Draft inducer runs for 30 seconds to a minute before you hear a gas hissing sound. You might smell some gas. The ignitor did not glow, the flame sensor (a small metal probe about 1/8″ in diameter, with a white porcelain base) does not sense the flame, so after 8 to 10 seconds the hissing sounds stops with no ignition of gas to heat your home. Your furnace shuts down and goes into a lock out condition until you turn your power switch back off and on again. Then the sequence starts all over again with no ignition of the gas.

Solution: You probably need to purchase and install a new ignitor.

  • We sell furnace hot surface ignitors on the following page: Please Click Here to see the name brand Furnace Ignitors we sell. I would suggest that you inspect your ignitor closely for cracks. Make sure you do not touch the ignitor with your bare hands. If you touch an ignitor with your hands the oil off your skin can transfer to the ignitor and shorten the life of the ignitor. Below we have a picture showing a cracked ignitor.
  • If you do not visually see a crack in the ignitor, then I would suggest that you unplug the ignitor and take an ohm meter reading to see if the ignitor is burnt out. Set the multimeter so it can properly measure a resistance of 10 to 200 ohms. Disconnect the hot surface ignitor from the control board and measure the resistance. A good hot surface ignitor will have a resistance of 40 to 90 ohms. Greater than 90 ohms indicates a failing or failed hot surface ignitor.
  • We have two YouTube videos below that show hot to test and troubleshoot furnace ignitor problems.
  • If your ignitor tests OK with an ohm meter, then you could have a furnace control board problem or you could have an open limit or rollout switch problem. We sell furnace limits on the following page: Please click here to go to our furnace limits and rollouts page.
  • The furnace’s control board might not be supplying the voltage to the ignitor. Please click here to see our Furnace Control Boards Page.
  • If your furnace lights and the gas stays on for 8 to 10 seconds, then shuts right back off, then you can try to clean your flame sensor with light sand paper (emery cloth) or steel wool. You might need a new flame sensor, but most of the time they can be cleaned an will work well after cleaning. Please see the pictures below to help identify the difference between a flame sensor and a furnace hot surface ignitor. If you need a new furnace flame sensor then we sell furnace flame sensor on the following page: Furnace Flame Sensors Page.
  • Please send us your furnace’s model number if you would like for us to recommend a furnace part. On Rheem Ruud furnaces we will need both model number and serial number. On Bryant Carrier furnaces we will need the product number. Our email address is: support@arnoldservice.com. We try our best to answer all emails as soon as possible. Usually within one hour during normal business hours. 7 AM. – 4 PM. Eastern Time.
  • We would love to help you out and have your business!

broken_ignitor

Below are pictures to help you identify the difference in a flame sensor and a hot surface ignitor. On the top we have pictures of three different types of flame sensors. On the bottom is a picture of a hot surface ignitor. Please make sure you do not touch the gray glass part of the ignitor. If you do it can shorten the hot surface ignitor’s life.

0130F00010 goodman flame sensor Sen01114 flame sensor package  LH68001420flame20sensor20all2

Below we have a picture of a hot surface ignitor:

bryant20carrier20ignitor20LH33ZS00420all

Below we have two YouTube videos that explain how to troubleshoot furnace ignitor problems. The top YouTube Video shows how to replace your furnace ignitor and flame sensor:


The YouTube Video below shows you how to test a furnace hot surface ignitor. We hope this will help you troubleshoot and repair your furnace.

44 thoughts on “Problem: Furnace will not ignite. Ignitor will not glow.

  1. Hi I’m having a problem where the igniter glows but on some occassions doesn’t create the flame.. the glow vanishes and the furnace will blow normal air until it is reset. As the tempuratures get colder outside, it happens more often. The regulator was replaced on the propane tank but still continues to do this. It all started after we switched propane companies and replaced tanks. Heater guy says its the pressure (propane company), propane guy says its ignition sensor or igniter, but the heater guy tests and says its okay. =(

    1. Hi Patrick! So sorry to hear you are having this trouble and a run around between the propane company and furnace man. Your furnace man might need to adjust the pressure on the furnace’s gas valve. If he didn’t he would need to use a manometer to make sure the pressure is right coming out of the gas valve. This could also be a control board problem. If you do not hear the gas coming into the burners after the ignitor glows then this is probably a control board or a gas valve problem. You should hear the gas valve at least trying to open. I would make sure the gas valve pressure is right first. LP gas can be temperamental at ignition. I hope you can get the problem found and fixed soon! Steve

    2. New flame rod, new ignitor, new temperature switch, new pressure switch, cycle fan and lines clean no leaks will not ignite the hot surface ignitor??? Please help

      1. Hi Randall! Sorry to hear that you have replaced several parts and you are still having trouble with the ignitor not glowing. I would suggest testing with a volt meter to make sure all your safety controls like the pressure switch, limit, and rollout switches are all closed when the furnace is calling for heat and the draft inducer is running. If any of the safety controls are open then the control board will not allow the ignitor to glow. If all your safety controls check out right and the ignitor still will not glow then I would suggest that you test the voltage going to the ignitor. If you are not getting a minimum of 110 volts to the ignitor then you probably need a new control board. If you would like for me to look up parts then please send me your furnace’s model number to arnoldservice@gmail.com and I will try to look up parts. I hope you can easily find and fix the problem. Steve

  2. Steve,
    I have an RGRA Rheem furnace that is not getting power to the igniter. I have a wiring diagram of the entire system, and I used my Ohm / Volt meter to check all the systems I could see. I checked the pressure switches for continuity and they all perform according to design. I also checked continuity through the igniter by itself, and all the wires connected to it, all the way to the IFC mother board. Everything appears fine. I also checked for power to the gas solenoid, and I”m getting the 24V signal. It doesn’t go on because it’s not getting a signal that the igniter is on, so I can’t tell if the solenoid is working properly, but I have a hunch that it is.
    After checking all the systems, I decided to look into the IFC. According to the wiring diagram, I should be getting 115V to the igniter directly from the IFC. I decided to disconnect the plug from the IFC to see if I was getting any power, and when I turned on the furnace and checked, I got nothing. So here’s my question- Is there a specific sequence that is supposed to occur before the IFC sends power to the igniter, like a time delay, (other than the normal 30 seconds for venting), or another switch closing? I’m hoping I don’t have to replace the mother board in the unit, but before doing so, I want to be sure I’ve covered all the bases. What could I possibly be missing? You help would be greatly appreciated. Respectfully. Mike

    1. Hi Michael! Since you are not getting power to the ignitor then this could be an open limit, open rollout, open pressure switch or a bad control board. I would make sure you are getting 24 volts through the limit, rollouts and pressure switch if you have not already tested these safety controls. Yes, the ignitor should glow and you should be getting power to the ignitor probably 30 seconds to a minute after the draft inducer closes the pressure switch. Most of the time you can hear a click in the control board when the ignitor should start glowing. I hope you can easily find and fix the problem If you need a control board or other part please send me your furnaces model number and serial number and I will be glad to look it up. It would be best to send this information to our arnoldservice@gmail.com email address. Hope you have a great day! Steve

  3. My gas furnace is not getting gas. The ignitor works and it starts up but no gas is getting through. Please help

    1. I would recommend checking to see if you are getting 24 volts to the gas valve when the gas valve is supposed to be opening. If you are getting 24 volts to the gas valve and it is not opening up to allow gas to flow then you probably have a bad gas valve. If you are not getting 24 volts to the gas valve then you could have a bad control board or and open limit or rollout switch. A pressure switch that is not closing could also be the problem. I hope the following helps: We have lots of furnace troubleshooting advice on the following page: https://arnoldservice.com/gas-electric-furnace-troubleshooting-simplified-2/ I would suggest going through the troubleshooting flow chart to see what is wrong: https://arnoldservice.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/12/furnace-troubleshooting-flow-chart.pdf We also have lots of troubleshooting questions and answers on the following page: https://arnoldservice.com/furnace-troubleshooting-questions-answers-index/ If you have any specific questions please let me know. Thanks! I hope you can easily find and fix the problem. Steve

  4. I have a furnace. It performs the startup cycle, the fan blows but I do not hear the gas coming on nor does my ignitor light up. I have gas everywhere else in the house with no problem. In the last 5 years I have had 3 new igniters with 3 different companies. Now my heat wont turn up at all. Not sure where to go …. Don’t know if its as easy as a bad thermostat not sending the correct heat request… please help

    1. Hi Carlos! If your ignitor will not light up then this could be caused by many different problems. It could be caused by a bad ignitor. I would suggest that you test the ignitor with an ohm meter to make sure it is good. The problem could be caused by an open safety control like a limit, roll-out switch or pressure switch not being closed. It could be caused by a bad ignitor relay on the control board. We have lots of furnace troubleshooting advice on the following page: https://arnoldservice.com/gas-electric-furnace-troubleshooting-simplified-2/ I would suggest going through the troubleshooting flow chart to see what is wrong: https://arnoldservice.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/12/furnace-troubleshooting-flow-chart.pdf We also have lots of troubleshooting questions and answers on the following page: https://arnoldservice.com/furnace-troubleshooting-questions-answers-index/ If you have any specific questions please let me know. Thanks! I hope you can easily find and fix the problem. Steve

  5. I have a Carrier 58MCA/58MXA, not sure which but that’s the manual that was left when the house was built. I am getting a fault 34. I have cleaned the flame sensor, and replaced the hot surface ignitor and I am still getting a fault 34. The ignitor never glows, it goes through the start up sequence but the ignitor never kicks on. I did check the voltage and the max voltage I get to the ignitor is 7.6 vac. I am guessing at this point it might be the circuit board, is that a good assumption?

    1. Hi John! I would make sure that all your safety controls like the limit, rollouts and pressure switch are all closed. If any of these are open the the ignitor will not glow. If all these check out OK then I would think that your control board could be at fault. If you want me to look up parts please send me you furnace’s product number to our email address: arnoldservice@gmail.com and I can look up the control board or any other parts you would like for me to find part numbers for. I hope you can easily find and fix the problem. Steve

  6. Installed a new igniter and have the same problem, the igniter will not glow all the times, it works on an intermittent basis. If I turn off the power and was a few minutes it usually comes back on. I have checked all the switches and they appear to be fine, I got 24 – 28 volts off both sides of all switches.

    1. Hi Jeff! This sounds like it is a control board problem where the ignitor relay on the control board is not allowing the ignitor to glow every time. The contacts inside the relay on the board are probably worn or pitted. I would suggest making sure that the pressure switch is staying closed during ignition. I am sure you have probably already checked the pressure switch. If you would like for me to look up parts or give you the control board part number then please send me your furnace’s product number to our email address: arnoldservice@gmail.com. I hope you can easily find and fix the problem. Steve

      1. Steve, My problem is similar but I do not appear to be getting pressure thru the hose system to the pressure switch. I checked the pressure switch and I cleaned the igniter. Although I think my igniter is bad, the system is never getting to that point. The fan motor comes on immediately instead of the system going thru the normal process. Why would i not be getting the vacuum to close the pressure switch? Also it appears the vent motor is spinning. Not sure how fast it should go though. It is very quiet. David

      2. Hi David! I would suggest that you use a volt and ohm meter to check to make sure all the safety controls are closed. The safety controls would be the limit, rollouts and pressure switch. If they are not closing then the ignitor will not light. You can use an ohm meter to check the ignitor to make sure it is good. A good furnace ignitor will read between 40 to 90 ohms. We have lots of furnace troubleshooting advice on the following page: https://arnoldservice.com/gas-electric-furnace-troubleshooting-simplified-2/ I would suggest going through the troubleshooting flow chart to see what is wrong: https://arnoldservice.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/12/furnace-troubleshooting-flow-chart.pdf We also have lots of troubleshooting questions and answers on the following page: https://arnoldservice.com/furnace-troubleshooting-questions-answers-index/ If you have any specific questions please let me know. Thanks! I hope you can easily find and fix the problem. Steve

  7. I ran out of propane, got it filled up and went to start the furnace it ignited, and wouldnt ignite back. I called the furnace company and they came for 15 mins and said theres nothing they could do its a propane issue, not enough gas pressure, I called propane company and they came out and said since the regulator was 30 yrs old they will replace it but thats not the issue, they installed the new one and it still shows 12 pounds, furnace goes thru its ignition plate gets hot and you can hear the regulator click and open and if you blow in there it will sometimes light but when its burning there is some yellow flames not a true blue flame, when it shuts off it wont come back on without some help. I think the furnace guy was wrong and the propane company proved hes wrong and now I still dont have a furnace. I have a 2016 Bryant 90plus 92 eff propane furnace that blink code is 34 ignition / gas issue any help

    1. So sorry to hear you are having propane furnace problems during this cold spell! LP gas furnace gas pressures should be set with a manometer and have someone who if familiar with working on LP furnaces. It sounds like your gas air mixture is not right since it is burning yellow. I would suggest that you call a company that has a good reputation with working on and fixing LP gas furnaces. I am sorry that I can not make a recommendation because it takes special tools to get the gas/air mixture right on an LP furnace. Sorry that I could not tell you anything more than what you already know. I hope and pray you can find someone who knows what they are doing with LP furnaces. The Bryant plus 90 furnace should be a good one. I am sure that it wasn’t cheap! God bless you and your family. Steve

  8. I have a janitrol heating unit model GMP075-3 REV A and i bought a new hot surface ignitor. It still wont glow. The first blower turns on then just runs for about 5 minutes then it all shuts off because of no glow on the ignitor. Please help me. My house is cold and have 4 kids. URGENT.

    1. Hi Victor! So sorry to hear that you are without heat. 3 blinks on a Goodman furnace usually mean a pressure switch problem. We have a furnace pressure switch troubleshooting page that I hope will help you find and fix the problem. Here is the link to that page: https://arnoldservice.com/how-to-test-and-troubleshoot-gas-furnace-pressure-switches/ Steve

  9. Hi. My furnace is not performing the igniting sequence (3 cycles of igniting followed by inductor blowing and then lockout in case igniter does not glow). Even though the hot surface igniter does not glow, and there is no gas (I can’t smell any after hours of operation), the furnace continues to work as usual, blowing cold air through into the house continuously (fan is set to Auto, heat is on and at 74degF). It appears that it bypasses the igniting sequence all together. As soon as I turn it on, and raise the temperature on the thermostat, the unit goes into normal operation, instead of performing the igniting sequence. I have tested both hot surface igniters on the other unit and they both work (both glow). I have also cleaned the flame sensor. There is no blinking diagnostics light on the circuit board. Everything appears to be in working condition except for the fact that the igniter will not glow yet the unit still goes into normal operation as if a flame is present.This is a Amana 80 SSE IIQ Air Command Gas Furnace. Any input or advise will be highly appreciated. Thank you

    1. Hi Mauro! Sorry that your heat is out during this cold spell! Since the ignitor will not glow this could be a safety control problem like a limit, rollout or pressure switch. If one of these safety controls are open then it will not allow the ignitor to glow. I would suggest checking all safety control with a volt meter and pressing down on the reset buttons (if equipped) on every rollout switch. This could also be a control board problem and after you make sure all the safety controls are closed you would need to test with a volt meter to see if the ignitor is getting 110 volts when it is supposed to be glowing. We have lots of furnace troubleshooting advice on the following page: https://arnoldservice.com/gas-electric-furnace-troubleshooting-simplified-2/ I would suggest going through the troubleshooting flow chart to see what is wrong: https://arnoldservice.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/12/furnace-troubleshooting-flow-chart.pdf We also have lots of troubleshooting questions and answers on the following page: https://arnoldservice.com/furnace-troubleshooting-questions-answers-index/ If you have any specific questions please let me know. Thanks! I hope you can easily find and fix the problem. Steve

  10. Hey, I have a Goodman Furnace Model GMP100-4. It will no longer heat up the ignitor. I’ve replaced the ignitor and the flame sensor. The control board’s LED is steady on. If I reset the furnace, the blower motor runs fine, and it attempts to run, but the ignitor doesn’t heat up. If I light it manually, it runs normally until the thermostat turns it off, but of course it will later attempt to re-light and then the ignitor will fail to heat up, and it’ll shut itself down.

    All the wiring connections seem tight. Is this likely to mean I need a new control board?

    1. Hi Mark! This sounds like you have a bad ignitor relay on the control board. Your furnace uses the B1809913S that we sell on the following page: https://arnoldservice.com/product/goodman-furnace-control-board-b1809913s/ I would check to make sure and check to make sure all safety controls like the pressure switch, rollouts and limit as closed. If these are all closed and you are not getting 110 volts to the ignitor it almost has to be the control board. I hope you can easily find and fix the problem. Steve

      1. Pretty sure it isn’t the rollout or pressure switch, since the furnace will run normally if I light it manually. Resetting it with the main electrical switch doesn’t get it to power the ignitor, so it’s probably not the limit switch, either. I hate to buy another part and try to hook up a new control unit if it’s not going to solve the problem, but I’m considering it.

      2. Hi Mark! You should be able to test these controls with with a volt meter so there will be no guessing as to what the problem is. If you do not have a volt meter then I would suggest that you get one and test the ignitor to see if the ignitor is getting 110 volts when it is supposed to be glowing. You can do all kinds of tests using a volt and ohm meter to make sure that you do not waste your money on a control board. I hope you can find the definite problem so you do not have to worry about wasting money on parts that are not the problem. Steve

  11. If an ignitor is bad will the furnace be shut down completely? It shows no power at all. Blower does not run in on position. I cleaned the ignitor when it was doing this a few weeks ago and it started immediately. It had no power at that time too.

    1. Hi Mr. Martinez! No sir, if an ignitor is bad the furnace will not shut down completely. This sounds like you have a high voltage issue. I would make sure that you are getting 120 volts going into your furnace between L1 and neutral on your control board. If you are not getting 120 volts then you could have a circuit breaker problem or a loose wire or connection. I would also suggest that if you have a fuse on the control board or transformer that you check the fuse out to make sure it is good. We have a furnace troubleshooting flow chart: https://arnoldservice.com/furnace-trouble-shooting-flow-chart/ and many questions with answers and videos on the following page: https://arnoldservice.com/furnace-troubleshooting-questions-answers-index/ I hope you can easily find and fix the problem. Steve

  12. I have replaced my igniter on my weeks diamond 80 furnace 3 times over the last 2 week, the furnace is 19 years old

    1. We discuss this problem and causes on the following page under, “Below are listed some reasons that might cause your ignitor to go out prematurely”. Here is a link to that page: https://arnoldservice.com/gas-electric-furnace-troubleshooting-simplified-2/ I hope this helps you out. Steve

  13. I have a luxaire furnace model #g9t06010upb13c that keeps burning out ignitors continuously. Three so far. What could be the problems.
    Thank You
    Cosimo Roarco
    Have a nice day

    1. Sorry to hear that your ignitor is going out often. I would like to suggest that you check to make sure the ignitor is shutting off after the furnace gas ignites. If the ignitor is staying on then this will of course shorten the ignitor’s life. If the ignitor is staying on then you probably have a stuck relay on the control board. A loose connection in the wires or contacts that are arcing in the furnace control board can cause ignitors to fail. About half way down the following page we discuss why ignitors go out prematurely: https://arnoldservice.com/gas-electric-furnace-troubleshooting-simplified-2/ If it turns out that you need a control board then our Luxaire program shows that your furnace uses the S1-33103010000 control board that we sell on the following page: https://arnoldservice.com/product/s1-33103010000-york-furnace-control-board/ I hope you can easily find and fix the problem. Steve

  14. I had similar issues to the previous commenters. I had the ignition switch replaced and went to bed happy that it was working. When I woke up this morning I noticed that the t-stat was below the heat temp. So I went to the furnace and nothing was happening. I looked at my house’S control panel and the breaker was tripped. I reset the breaker and the furnaces kicked back on but now it seems like the igniter is bad again. Is it possible that the wrong igniter was used in my repair?

    Thanks

    1. Hi Dustin! The question is why did your furnace breaker go out. Most of the time with an ignitor problem the breaker will stay on. Please be careful and check the wire connections on the breaker to make sure they are good and tight. We had an electrician who did some remodeling for us and installed a new breaker box. Several breakers started tripping for no reason. I took the cover off the new electrical panel and found out that probably half the wires that went into the breakers were loose. I tightened all the breaker screws and we have not had any problems. Also, please watch the ignitor and make sure it is turning off after the gas lights. Also make sure it is not glowing erratic like my ignitor was doing last night! We had furnace ignitor problem last night with our Bryant 90I furnace. The ignitor was out so I replaced the ignitor. After starting the furnace up after the ignitor replacement I see and hear the ignitor not making good contact with some control on the furnace making some weird noises. The ignitor was going off and on during warm up. To make a long story short it turns out that the pressure switch was not making good contact. After replacing the pressure switch everything worked fine. I am glad I had an extra ignitor and pressure switch on hand. I had just replaced the ignitor last winter and I assume that the pressure switch that caused the ignitor to work erratic was why the ignitor failed so soon. Please send me your furnace model number if you would like for me to look it up and see which ignitor or parts your furnace uses. Please email me at the arnoldservice@gmail.com email address and I will be glad to look part up. I hope you can easily find and fix the problem. Steve

    2. Have issue today with ignitor on a Rheem criterion. Noticed ignitor begins to glow for a few seconds and stops and about a minute later attempts to get warm again. This time it does get a little warmer, but only a 1/4 of the ignitor is orange. Normal click(s) and the blower but no lighting takes place. Does this sound like an ignitor going bad?

      1. Hi Dustin! This sounds more like a control board problem with the ignitor relay on the control board at fault. Please make sure all connections on the control board are tight. If you can, try to test the ignitor power output with a volt meter. If the power going to the ignitor is a constant 120 volts when it is supposed to be glowing and the ignitor is going off and on then this is an ignitor problem. If the voltage varies then this is probably a control board problem. If you would like for me to look up parts…please send your furnace’s model number and serial number to our arnoldservice@gmail.com email address and I will be glad to look up the parts. I hope you can easily find and fix the problem. Steve

      2. New ignitor solved the problem. $22 vs a $150 quote.

        Why doesn’t Home Depot or Lowe’s carry this small part? Seems to be popular.

      3. Hi Robert!
        I have no idea why they would not sell ignitors other than because they are fragile and can be broken easy and if a customer does not know how to handle an ignitor properly without touching the carbide tip then this could cause lots of warranty problems for Lowes and Home Depot. I hope you have a great day! Steve

  15. I replaced my ignitor and it did not glow so I replaced my board as well and still nothing. The motor and everything else kicks on calling for heat but I can’t get the ignitor to turn on

    1. Hi Jim! Sorry to hear your heat is out. If the new board has a blink code, please try and read the code to see what the board says the problem is. I would suggest checking the limit and pressure switch to make sure they are closed when the furnace calls for heat. If the furnace has rollout switches please make sure all of these are closed. Some rollouts have buttons on them that you can push in to reset. Please follow the furnace troubleshooting flow chart that we have on the following page: https://arnoldservice.com/furnace-trouble-shooting-flow-chart/ I hope you can easily find and fix the problem. Steve

  16. Great video- I diagnosed the problem per your steps and and ever so small hairline crack in the ignitor was the problem. It actually worked sporadically (which had me stumped) but finally quit. I think the hairline crack and surrounding white discoloration were the giveaway.
    New ignitor, cleaned the flame sensor- should be good until next time!
    Thanks.

    1. Awesome! I am very happy to hear you found the problem and got it fixed! Great that you saved lots of $$$ doing the repair yourself! Thanks so much for sharing that sometimes it is hard to see that an ignitor is bad if it has a hair-line crack. We are looking forward to doing business with you in the future! Steve

  17. Recently installed new flame sensor and igniter. Tested furnace all worked well. Weather warmed up did not need furnace for two weeks. Weather changed, set t-stat, inducer started, no ignition. I did notice a steady red light on the control board. No blinking. I have cycled the unit several times, heard the click as if the gas valve opened and still no ignition. Could it be the contro board or is it possible that it is the igniter?

    As luck would have it, we are headed for 30 degrees this weekend.

    Any direction would be appreciated.

    1. Hi Mr. DeGuilio!
      Sorry to hear that you are having furnace problems. About the only way to tell where the problem is would be to test the controls with a volt meter. The problem could be coming from the control board or any of the safety controls (pressure switch, limit or rollout switch). You can test the ignitor with an ohm meter to see if it is good or not. We have a pretty good trouble shooting flow chart and what to look for on our Furnace Troubleshooting Simplified page. Here is a link to that page: https://arnoldserv.wpengine.com/gas-electric-furnace-troubleshooting-simplified-2/ I hope you can easily find and fix the problem. If you need for me to look up parts please send me your furnace’s model number. I hope you have a nice day and weekend!
      Steve Arnold, https://arnoldserv.wpengine.com

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *