Posted on 75 Comments

Problem: Furnace will not ignite. Ignitor will not glow.

Problem: Furnace will not ignite the gas to produce heat for your home. The furnace hot surface ignitor does not glow. When a furnace has a bad ignitor. This is what I see in the furnace sequence of operation:

1. Thermostat calls for heat.

2. Draft inducer motor starts.

3. Pressure switch attached by a small plastic or rubber tube senses the negative pressure produced by the draft inducer and closes.

4. Draft inducer runs for 30 seconds to a minute before you hear a gas hissing sound. You might smell some gas. The ignitor did not glow, the flame sensor (a small metal probe about 1/8″ in diameter, with a white porcelain base) does not sense the flame, so after 8 to 10 seconds the hissing sounds stops with no ignition of gas to heat your home. Your furnace shuts down and goes into a lock out condition until you turn your power switch back off and on again. Then the sequence starts all over again with no ignition of the gas.

Solution: You probably need to purchase and install a new ignitor.

  • We sell furnace hot surface ignitors on the following page: Please Click Here to see the name brand Furnace Ignitors we sell. I would suggest that you inspect your ignitor closely for cracks. Make sure you do not touch the ignitor with your bare hands. If you touch an ignitor with your hands the oil off your skin can transfer to the ignitor and shorten the life of the ignitor. Below we have a picture showing a cracked ignitor.
  • If you do not visually see a crack in the ignitor, then I would suggest that you unplug the ignitor and take an ohm meter reading to see if the ignitor is burnt out. Set the multimeter so it can properly measure a resistance of 10 to 200 ohms. Disconnect the hot surface ignitor from the control board and measure the resistance. A good hot surface ignitor will have a resistance of 40 to 90 ohms. Greater than 90 ohms indicates a failing or failed hot surface ignitor.
  • We have two YouTube videos below that show hot to test and troubleshoot furnace ignitor problems.
  • If your ignitor tests OK with an ohm meter, then you could have a furnace control board problem or you could have an open limit or rollout switch problem. We sell furnace limits on the following page: Please click here to go to our furnace limits and rollouts page.
  • The furnace’s control board might not be supplying the voltage to the ignitor. Please click here to see our Furnace Control Boards Page.
  • If your furnace lights and the gas stays on for 8 to 10 seconds, then shuts right back off, then you can try to clean your flame sensor with light sand paper (emery cloth) or steel wool. You might need a new flame sensor, but most of the time they can be cleaned an will work well after cleaning. Please see the pictures below to help identify the difference between a flame sensor and a furnace hot surface ignitor. If you need a new furnace flame sensor then we sell furnace flame sensor on the following page: Furnace Flame Sensors Page.
  • Please send us your furnace’s model number if you would like for us to recommend a furnace part. On Rheem Ruud furnaces we will need both model number and serial number. On Bryant Carrier furnaces we will need the product number. Our email address is: support@arnoldservice.com. We try our best to answer all emails as soon as possible. Usually within one hour during normal business hours. 7 AM. – 4 PM. Eastern Time.
  • We would love to help you out and have your business!

broken_ignitor

Below are pictures to help you identify the difference in a flame sensor and a hot surface ignitor. On the top we have pictures of three different types of flame sensors. On the bottom is a picture of a hot surface ignitor. Please make sure you do not touch the gray glass part of the ignitor. If you do it can shorten the hot surface ignitor’s life.

0130F00010 goodman flame sensor Sen01114 flame sensor package  LH68001420flame20sensor20all2

Below we have a picture of a hot surface ignitor:

bryant20carrier20ignitor20LH33ZS00420all

Below we have two YouTube videos that explain how to troubleshoot furnace ignitor problems. The top YouTube Video shows how to replace your furnace ignitor and flame sensor:


The YouTube Video below shows you how to test a furnace hot surface ignitor. We hope this will help you troubleshoot and repair your furnace.

75 thoughts on “Problem: Furnace will not ignite. Ignitor will not glow.

  1. Hi Steve. I have a Lennox G5UH. I ran the parts and the igniter suggested is 80v. When I put a meter to the igniter socket I am measuring 40v. The igniter shows a resistance of 14.9v. Where would you start replacing parts or would you troubleshoot further. TIA

    1. Hi Sean! “G5UH” does not show any Lennox furnace models in our Lennox parts program. Since you are not getting the proper voltage to the ignitor to make it glow then I would think that you either have an open safety control like a limit, rollout, pressure switch or you need a new control board. I do not know what the ohms reading should be on your ignitor but many of the silicon nitride ignitors ohn out with lower than expected ohms. Normal ignitors ohm out between 40 to 90 ohms. One of the Trane ignitors that we sell the Trane IGN00145 silicone nitride ignitor ohms out at 16 ohms. Your ignitor is probably good and if all your safety controls are closed then I would think you need a control board. Just to be safe before I purchased an expensive control board I would suggest trying a new ignitor. I would not hurt to have an extra ignitor around in case you ever need one. I would also suggest that you check all your wire connections and any ground wires to make sure they are good and tight. I hope you find and fix the problem soon! Steve

  2. Hello – I have an old Janitrol furnace. I replaced the ignitor because it wouldn’t glow and was reading 90 ohms. I have a new ignitor and it’s glowing intermittently. Voltage at the ignitor is 10-12V AC. Did I get the wrong ignitor or is there a problem elsewhere? Thanks!

    1. This sounds like you might have a loose connection or a control board problem. If the ignitor relay is bad on the control board then you will need a new control board. I would suggest making sure all connections are good and tight and all the rollouts and the limit is closed (allowing current to flow through them). Let me know if you want me to look up parts. Please send your model number to our email address at arnoldservice@gmail.com. Thanks! Steve

      1. Thanks – how can I verify that the rollouts and limit is closed?

      2. Hi Ron! You would turn the furnace on so the thermostat is calling for heat and set your voltmeter to “Volts AC” Touch one terminal of the rollout switch with one of the meter probes and the other meter probe to a good furnace ground like on the body of the furnace. You should get 24 to 28 volts AC between each of the two terminals on the rollout or limit to ground. If not then you have an open rollout or limit. All rollouts and limits should have 24 volts to ground on both terminals of the limit and rollout. I hope you can easily find and fix the problem. Steve

  3. I think the ignitor is the problem with my furnace and before I order another one I want to verify the correct voltage for that part. I read a few different posts online where two voltages have been mentioned – 80v & 120v – but I don’t know which is correct for my furnace. Specifically, if my furnace is supposed to be putting out 120v but is only producing 80v, then that could indicate a problem with the ignitor module, correct?! But, again, I don’t know the correct voltage, so perhaps someone could assist me to know the proper voltage. The model is Lennox 80MGF3-75A-12 and according to the manual it has a SiNi ignitor. Thank you.

    1. Hi Peter! I looked up the parts for your furnace in our Lennox parts program and it shows that your furnace uses a DSI (direct spark ignition) and not a hot surface ignitor. The part number for the DSI is 43K3101. Yes, if your furnace is only producing 80 volts then it could be a problem with the ignitor module. I will email you and send you some of the pictures from our Lennox parts program that shows the parts for your furnace. I can not send pictures through our comments page. I hope that you can find and fix the problem soon! Steve

      1. Hi Steve,
        Thank you for responding. I rechecked the manual and I noticed I was looking at the wrong model when I saw the reference to the SiNi HSI; that was for an older version of that model. Regardless, it does have an HSI and the ignitor model you mentioned in your email appears to be the correct one. I’ll order one and compare it to the existing to ensure it’s the same dimensions, because I don’t want to install one which doesn’t align correctly and have problems caused by using an ignitor which isn’t positioned correctly in the gas flow. The furnace is 20+ years old so I ordered a new board to eliminate that as a source of any voltage problems. I’ll check back after I get all the parts and provide an update. Peter.

      2. Thanks for providing an update, Peter! I hope you can get your furnace fixed and going soon! Steve

  4. I have a problem. When I run the diagnostic test, my igniter does glow during the test sequence but when I turn on the heat my furnace goes through the sequence where the draft inducer runs and the draft inducer sensor switch closes, but the igniter never glows after that point. Any ideas?

    1. Hi Mark!
      I would make sure that you are getting 24 volts AC between W and C (common) when your thermostat is calling for heat to be ON. I would suggest making sure that the limit, rollouts and pressure switch is closed when the draft inducer is on and when the thermostat is calling for heat to be ON. If any of the safety controls like the limit, rollouts or pressure switch is open then the ignitor will not glow. If all the safety controls are closed then I would check to see if you are getting 110 volts to the ignitor when it is supposed to be glowing. If you are not getting 110 to the ignitor then I would think that you have a control board problem and might need a new control board. Another thought would be to make sure that if your thermostat has batteries, make sure the batteries are in good condition. Check all wires to make sure they are good and tight. Best of luck! I hope you can easily find and fix the problem. Steve

      1. Thanks for the quick reply! I’ll check it out.

      2. Thanks again. It was really easy. Tracked it down from the draft inducer pressure switch to the limit switch on the blower. All I had to do was reset the limit switch. :-0

      3. Fantastic! So very glad to hear that you found and fixed the problem!Yes, that limit switch on the blower is sometimes hard to see and find. So glad you found and fixed the problem! Thanks for letting us know! God bless you. Steve

  5. The hot surface igniter (1111701 or White Rogers 768A-2) on my Amana gas furnace will not glow. I checked the voltage to the plug connection and it reads 116 volts once the inducer fan and pressure switches are activated. The igniter is brand new and reads about 17 ohms when checked across its terminals (ohm reading is correct for this igniter unit). However, I am lost as to why the igniter will not glow upon furnace startup. Any insight you can provide is greatly appreciated.

    1. Hi Jake! All that I can think of would be to test the voltage when the ignitor is being energized to see if the control board ignitor relay is failing or not. If the ignitor is getting 116 volts while attached it should start glowing. Sorry that I can not be of more help or give you any other advice.

  6. If your hot surface iginitor only reads 15 ohms does this mean the hot surface iginitor has any continuity how long will that last before I have to replace that ?

    1. Hi Shawn! Most ignitors read between 40 to 90 ohms if they are good. Above 90 ohms the ignitor is considered bad. Since you ignitor has such a low resistance then I do not know really what to think. I would think that the ignitor is still good if it is glowing nice and red hot. There is not really a way that I know to determine how long an ignitor will last. The longevity is like a light bulb, very hard to determine. I always recommend keeping a spare ignitor on hand in case your ignitor fails on a cold winter night or weekend. If you would like for me to look up and see what ignitor that your furnace manufacturer recommends then please send me your furnace’s model number and I will try to look it up in one of our parts programs. Please send the model number to our email address: arnoldservice@gmail.com. Hope you have a great day and weekend! Steve

  7. i have a older miller and for some reason its not lighting it gives the code that everything is okay but it wont light I am not sure what to do please help I live in a trailer and cant really use the electric heaters gives me a 500 dollar electric bill I know I have gas the tanks just got filled.

    1. Hi Tiairia! I really do not have any idea what could be wrong without testing parts with a voltmeter. We have lots of furnace troubleshooting advice on the following page: https://arnoldservice.com/gas-electric-furnace-troubleshooting-simplified-2/ I would suggest going through the troubleshooting flow chart to see what is wrong: https://arnoldservice.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/12/furnace-troubleshooting-flow-chart.pdf We also have lots of troubleshooting questions and answers on the following page: https://arnoldservice.com/furnace-troubleshooting-questions-answers-index/ If you have any specific questions please let me know. Thanks! I hope you can easily find and fix the problem. Steve

  8. Hi Steve,

    I have a Goodman Furnace that a technician recently replaced the control board on 2 weeks ago. The furnace stopped after 2 weeks. Inducer come on and glow plug worked but no gas to light. I turned the power off at the breaker. Today I tried it because of how cold it is and it fired up. Ran for like 5 mins and I could hear the flame go out. I went down to smell for gas and didn’t smell any. Also the blower was still running which I thought without a flame the flame sensor would turn the furnace off. I turned it off sat breaker and on again and now no glow plug lighting up. I’m just worried about if its a gas issue. I don’t smell any natural gas in the basement or around the burners.

    Thanks,
    Chris

    1. Hi Chris! Sorry, you are having this problem in this cold, cold weather! If the ignitor will not glow then I would suggest that you check to make sure all your safety controls are closed like the rollouts, limit switch and pressure switch. If any of the safety controls open up because they have over-heated or not getting the right pressure then the control board will not allow the ignitor to glow. You will need a volt meter to test these controls. We have lots of furnace troubleshooting advice on the following page: https://arnoldservice.com/gas-electric-furnace-troubleshooting-simplified-2/ I would suggest going through the troubleshooting flow chart to see what is wrong: https://arnoldservice.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/12/furnace-troubleshooting-flow-chart.pdf We also have lots of troubleshooting questions and answers on the following page: https://arnoldservice.com/furnace-troubleshooting-questions-answers-index/ If you have any specific questions please let me know. Thanks! I hope you can easily find and fix the problem. Steve

  9. Hello Steve!

    This is probably the most helpful site I have found for diagnosing furnace problems. Thank you for all of this information. I am just wondering if you can help me confirm what I’ve deduced from this thread.

    Our furnace went out at -31 here in Wisconsin…luckily we also have a wood stove. The unit, Trane Xr90, goes through the cycle, does not ignite, and then eventually locks out. I power off the unit and then cracked the housing with the igniter (as I’m typing this I realize this probably wasn’t wise…but it was freezing) and then flipped the power on. The unit cycled and ignited. This leads me to believe there is a problem with air flow. I’ve checked the filter (new as of two weeks ago) and it’s clear. Would the next step be to check the hose on the pressure switch? I’ll also check the light to get the error code.

    Thanks,
    Shawn

    1. Hi Shawn! Thanks so much for your kind words! God bless you all! Minus 31 how awful! Yes, it sounds like you have a pressure switch problem or something is obstructing the vent or condensate drain on the furnace. Maybe some ice got into the vent pipe or the combustion air vent pipe. It will not hurt anything to leave the combustion air vent pipe loose until it warms up. Just do not leave the exhaust vent pipe off. Sorry, I am sure you know that. I would like to suggest that you make sure the pressure switch hole is unobstructed. If you use a wet vac to clean the drain on the furnace please make sure the pressure switch is disconnected so the negative pressure from the vac does not damage the pressure switch. If you want me to look up parts please send your furnace model number to our email address arnoldservice@gmail.com. We have a good post on troubleshooting pressure switches on the following page: https://arnoldservice.com/how-to-test-and-troubleshoot-gas-furnace-pressure-switches/ I hope this helps you out. God bless you and your family today and always! Steve

  10. I’m trying to fix a Trane furnace (sorry I don’t have the model number) with a White Rodgers 50A50-571 Control Board. When the call for heat comes in, the induction fan starts and does successfully close the switch. The main blower then comes on but at no point do I get any voltage to the ignitor. Ignitor is new, BTW. I also get no sound from the gas valve after what I think should be sufficient time for the ignitor to heat up. The main blower coming on before heat concerns me also. What steps should I take to properly diagnose the no power issue?

    1. Hi Pat! Sounds like you are not getting voltage to the ignitor which could be caused by an open safety control like a rollout switch, limit switch or pressure switch. If all the safety controls check out OK (closed) then you probably have a bad ignitor relay on the control board and you will need a new control board. If you want me to look up parts please send me the model number of your furnace to our email address: arnoldservice@gmail.com. I hope you can easily find and fix the problem. Steve

      1. Thanks much, Steve! I tested the pressure switch today and it is good. I’ll check the rollout and limit switches in the morning. If they’re okay, I should have a new board by Thursday morning. Great forum you have here and I can appreciate the help and advice you give out.

      2. Thank you so very much for your kind words. Many furnaces have status blink code lights on the control board. If you do have blink lights on your control board the board should tell you what the problem might be by reading the blink code. Most of the time the blink code key is located on the furnace’s blower door or cabinet door. I hope you can easily find and fix the problem. Steve

  11. Hi I’m having a problem where the igniter glows but on some occassions doesn’t create the flame.. the glow vanishes and the furnace will blow normal air until it is reset. As the tempuratures get colder outside, it happens more often. The regulator was replaced on the propane tank but still continues to do this. It all started after we switched propane companies and replaced tanks. Heater guy says its the pressure (propane company), propane guy says its ignition sensor or igniter, but the heater guy tests and says its okay. =(

    1. Hi Patrick! So sorry to hear you are having this trouble and a run around between the propane company and furnace man. Your furnace man might need to adjust the pressure on the furnace’s gas valve. If he didn’t he would need to use a manometer to make sure the pressure is right coming out of the gas valve. This could also be a control board problem. If you do not hear the gas coming into the burners after the ignitor glows then this is probably a control board or a gas valve problem. You should hear the gas valve at least trying to open. I would make sure the gas valve pressure is right first. LP gas can be temperamental at ignition. I hope you can get the problem found and fixed soon! Steve

    2. New flame rod, new ignitor, new temperature switch, new pressure switch, cycle fan and lines clean no leaks will not ignite the hot surface ignitor??? Please help

      1. Hi Randall! Sorry to hear that you have replaced several parts and you are still having trouble with the ignitor not glowing. I would suggest testing with a volt meter to make sure all your safety controls like the pressure switch, limit, and rollout switches are all closed when the furnace is calling for heat and the draft inducer is running. If any of the safety controls are open then the control board will not allow the ignitor to glow. If all your safety controls check out right and the ignitor still will not glow then I would suggest that you test the voltage going to the ignitor. If you are not getting a minimum of 110 volts to the ignitor then you probably need a new control board. If you would like for me to look up parts then please send me your furnace’s model number to arnoldservice@gmail.com and I will try to look up parts. I hope you can easily find and fix the problem. Steve

    3. I’m having this same problem with a Goodman furnace. Intermittently, the furnace will cycle on and blow cool air. When I look through the view port during one of these failed cycles I see the igniter glow for a couple of seconds and then go off. Turning the power to the furnace off and on will usually get the heat to cycle on normally. My repair man cannot find the problem – the board is reporting a fault when the furnace is in the failed state but replacing the board did not correct the problem. Have you seen this before?

      1. Hi Jay! This sounds like a control board problem, but you say that you replaced the board and it did not solve the problem. Of course, you know that the ignitor should glow longer than a couple of seconds before the gas valve is energized. I would check to make sure that you have all wire connections and plugin connections are good and tight. Make sure that you are getting a constant minimum of 24 volts between W and C when the thermostat is calling for heat. Make sure that your pressure switch is staying closed. Make sure all your rollouts and limit are closed and allowing current to flow through them. I would ohm out the ignitor and make sure it is between 40 and 90 ohms. A faulty ignitor could cause this problem. Sorry, I do not have any more recommendations. I hope you can easily find and fix the problem. Steve

  12. Steve,
    I have an RGRA Rheem furnace that is not getting power to the igniter. I have a wiring diagram of the entire system, and I used my Ohm / Volt meter to check all the systems I could see. I checked the pressure switches for continuity and they all perform according to design. I also checked continuity through the igniter by itself, and all the wires connected to it, all the way to the IFC mother board. Everything appears fine. I also checked for power to the gas solenoid, and I”m getting the 24V signal. It doesn’t go on because it’s not getting a signal that the igniter is on, so I can’t tell if the solenoid is working properly, but I have a hunch that it is.
    After checking all the systems, I decided to look into the IFC. According to the wiring diagram, I should be getting 115V to the igniter directly from the IFC. I decided to disconnect the plug from the IFC to see if I was getting any power, and when I turned on the furnace and checked, I got nothing. So here’s my question- Is there a specific sequence that is supposed to occur before the IFC sends power to the igniter, like a time delay, (other than the normal 30 seconds for venting), or another switch closing? I’m hoping I don’t have to replace the mother board in the unit, but before doing so, I want to be sure I’ve covered all the bases. What could I possibly be missing? You help would be greatly appreciated. Respectfully. Mike

    1. Hi Michael! Since you are not getting power to the ignitor then this could be an open limit, open rollout, open pressure switch or a bad control board. I would make sure you are getting 24 volts through the limit, rollouts and pressure switch if you have not already tested these safety controls. Yes, the ignitor should glow and you should be getting power to the ignitor probably 30 seconds to a minute after the draft inducer closes the pressure switch. Most of the time you can hear a click in the control board when the ignitor should start glowing. I hope you can easily find and fix the problem If you need a control board or other part please send me your furnaces model number and serial number and I will be glad to look it up. It would be best to send this information to our arnoldservice@gmail.com email address. Hope you have a great day! Steve

  13. My gas furnace is not getting gas. The ignitor works and it starts up but no gas is getting through. Please help

    1. I would recommend checking to see if you are getting 24 volts to the gas valve when the gas valve is supposed to be opening. If you are getting 24 volts to the gas valve and it is not opening up to allow gas to flow then you probably have a bad gas valve. If you are not getting 24 volts to the gas valve then you could have a bad control board or and open limit or rollout switch. A pressure switch that is not closing could also be the problem. I hope the following helps: We have lots of furnace troubleshooting advice on the following page: https://arnoldservice.com/gas-electric-furnace-troubleshooting-simplified-2/ I would suggest going through the troubleshooting flow chart to see what is wrong: https://arnoldservice.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/12/furnace-troubleshooting-flow-chart.pdf We also have lots of troubleshooting questions and answers on the following page: https://arnoldservice.com/furnace-troubleshooting-questions-answers-index/ If you have any specific questions please let me know. Thanks! I hope you can easily find and fix the problem. Steve

  14. I have a furnace. It performs the startup cycle, the fan blows but I do not hear the gas coming on nor does my ignitor light up. I have gas everywhere else in the house with no problem. In the last 5 years I have had 3 new igniters with 3 different companies. Now my heat wont turn up at all. Not sure where to go …. Don’t know if its as easy as a bad thermostat not sending the correct heat request… please help

    1. Hi Carlos! If your ignitor will not light up then this could be caused by many different problems. It could be caused by a bad ignitor. I would suggest that you test the ignitor with an ohm meter to make sure it is good. The problem could be caused by an open safety control like a limit, roll-out switch or pressure switch not being closed. It could be caused by a bad ignitor relay on the control board. We have lots of furnace troubleshooting advice on the following page: https://arnoldservice.com/gas-electric-furnace-troubleshooting-simplified-2/ I would suggest going through the troubleshooting flow chart to see what is wrong: https://arnoldservice.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/12/furnace-troubleshooting-flow-chart.pdf We also have lots of troubleshooting questions and answers on the following page: https://arnoldservice.com/furnace-troubleshooting-questions-answers-index/ If you have any specific questions please let me know. Thanks! I hope you can easily find and fix the problem. Steve

  15. I have a Carrier 58MCA/58MXA, not sure which but that’s the manual that was left when the house was built. I am getting a fault 34. I have cleaned the flame sensor, and replaced the hot surface ignitor and I am still getting a fault 34. The ignitor never glows, it goes through the start up sequence but the ignitor never kicks on. I did check the voltage and the max voltage I get to the ignitor is 7.6 vac. I am guessing at this point it might be the circuit board, is that a good assumption?

    1. Hi John! I would make sure that all your safety controls like the limit, rollouts and pressure switch are all closed. If any of these are open the the ignitor will not glow. If all these check out OK then I would think that your control board could be at fault. If you want me to look up parts please send me you furnace’s product number to our email address: arnoldservice@gmail.com and I can look up the control board or any other parts you would like for me to find part numbers for. I hope you can easily find and fix the problem. Steve

  16. Installed a new igniter and have the same problem, the igniter will not glow all the times, it works on an intermittent basis. If I turn off the power and was a few minutes it usually comes back on. I have checked all the switches and they appear to be fine, I got 24 – 28 volts off both sides of all switches.

    1. Hi Jeff! This sounds like it is a control board problem where the ignitor relay on the control board is not allowing the ignitor to glow every time. The contacts inside the relay on the board are probably worn or pitted. I would suggest making sure that the pressure switch is staying closed during ignition. I am sure you have probably already checked the pressure switch. If you would like for me to look up parts or give you the control board part number then please send me your furnace’s product number to our email address: arnoldservice@gmail.com. I hope you can easily find and fix the problem. Steve

      1. Steve, My problem is similar but I do not appear to be getting pressure thru the hose system to the pressure switch. I checked the pressure switch and I cleaned the igniter. Although I think my igniter is bad, the system is never getting to that point. The fan motor comes on immediately instead of the system going thru the normal process. Why would i not be getting the vacuum to close the pressure switch? Also it appears the vent motor is spinning. Not sure how fast it should go though. It is very quiet. David

      2. Hi David! I would suggest that you use a volt and ohm meter to check to make sure all the safety controls are closed. The safety controls would be the limit, rollouts and pressure switch. If they are not closing then the ignitor will not light. You can use an ohm meter to check the ignitor to make sure it is good. A good furnace ignitor will read between 40 to 90 ohms. We have lots of furnace troubleshooting advice on the following page: https://arnoldservice.com/gas-electric-furnace-troubleshooting-simplified-2/ I would suggest going through the troubleshooting flow chart to see what is wrong: https://arnoldservice.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/12/furnace-troubleshooting-flow-chart.pdf We also have lots of troubleshooting questions and answers on the following page: https://arnoldservice.com/furnace-troubleshooting-questions-answers-index/ If you have any specific questions please let me know. Thanks! I hope you can easily find and fix the problem. Steve

  17. I ran out of propane, got it filled up and went to start the furnace it ignited, and wouldnt ignite back. I called the furnace company and they came for 15 mins and said theres nothing they could do its a propane issue, not enough gas pressure, I called propane company and they came out and said since the regulator was 30 yrs old they will replace it but thats not the issue, they installed the new one and it still shows 12 pounds, furnace goes thru its ignition plate gets hot and you can hear the regulator click and open and if you blow in there it will sometimes light but when its burning there is some yellow flames not a true blue flame, when it shuts off it wont come back on without some help. I think the furnace guy was wrong and the propane company proved hes wrong and now I still dont have a furnace. I have a 2016 Bryant 90plus 92 eff propane furnace that blink code is 34 ignition / gas issue any help

    1. So sorry to hear you are having propane furnace problems during this cold spell! LP gas furnace gas pressures should be set with a manometer and have someone who if familiar with working on LP furnaces. It sounds like your gas air mixture is not right since it is burning yellow. I would suggest that you call a company that has a good reputation with working on and fixing LP gas furnaces. I am sorry that I can not make a recommendation because it takes special tools to get the gas/air mixture right on an LP furnace. Sorry that I could not tell you anything more than what you already know. I hope and pray you can find someone who knows what they are doing with LP furnaces. The Bryant plus 90 furnace should be a good one. I am sure that it wasn’t cheap! God bless you and your family. Steve

  18. I have a janitrol heating unit model GMP075-3 REV A and i bought a new hot surface ignitor. It still wont glow. The first blower turns on then just runs for about 5 minutes then it all shuts off because of no glow on the ignitor. Please help me. My house is cold and have 4 kids. URGENT.

    1. Hi Victor! So sorry to hear that you are without heat. 3 blinks on a Goodman furnace usually mean a pressure switch problem. We have a furnace pressure switch troubleshooting page that I hope will help you find and fix the problem. Here is the link to that page: https://arnoldservice.com/how-to-test-and-troubleshoot-gas-furnace-pressure-switches/ Steve

  19. Hi. My furnace is not performing the igniting sequence (3 cycles of igniting followed by inductor blowing and then lockout in case igniter does not glow). Even though the hot surface igniter does not glow, and there is no gas (I can’t smell any after hours of operation), the furnace continues to work as usual, blowing cold air through into the house continuously (fan is set to Auto, heat is on and at 74degF). It appears that it bypasses the igniting sequence all together. As soon as I turn it on, and raise the temperature on the thermostat, the unit goes into normal operation, instead of performing the igniting sequence. I have tested both hot surface igniters on the other unit and they both work (both glow). I have also cleaned the flame sensor. There is no blinking diagnostics light on the circuit board. Everything appears to be in working condition except for the fact that the igniter will not glow yet the unit still goes into normal operation as if a flame is present.This is a Amana 80 SSE IIQ Air Command Gas Furnace. Any input or advise will be highly appreciated. Thank you

    1. Hi Mauro! Sorry that your heat is out during this cold spell! Since the ignitor will not glow this could be a safety control problem like a limit, rollout or pressure switch. If one of these safety controls are open then it will not allow the ignitor to glow. I would suggest checking all safety control with a volt meter and pressing down on the reset buttons (if equipped) on every rollout switch. This could also be a control board problem and after you make sure all the safety controls are closed you would need to test with a volt meter to see if the ignitor is getting 110 volts when it is supposed to be glowing. We have lots of furnace troubleshooting advice on the following page: https://arnoldservice.com/gas-electric-furnace-troubleshooting-simplified-2/ I would suggest going through the troubleshooting flow chart to see what is wrong: https://arnoldservice.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/12/furnace-troubleshooting-flow-chart.pdf We also have lots of troubleshooting questions and answers on the following page: https://arnoldservice.com/furnace-troubleshooting-questions-answers-index/ If you have any specific questions please let me know. Thanks! I hope you can easily find and fix the problem. Steve

  20. Hey, I have a Goodman Furnace Model GMP100-4. It will no longer heat up the ignitor. I’ve replaced the ignitor and the flame sensor. The control board’s LED is steady on. If I reset the furnace, the blower motor runs fine, and it attempts to run, but the ignitor doesn’t heat up. If I light it manually, it runs normally until the thermostat turns it off, but of course it will later attempt to re-light and then the ignitor will fail to heat up, and it’ll shut itself down.

    All the wiring connections seem tight. Is this likely to mean I need a new control board?

    1. Hi Mark! This sounds like you have a bad ignitor relay on the control board. Your furnace uses the B1809913S that we sell on the following page: https://arnoldservice.com/product/goodman-furnace-control-board-b1809913s/ I would check to make sure and check to make sure all safety controls like the pressure switch, rollouts and limit as closed. If these are all closed and you are not getting 110 volts to the ignitor it almost has to be the control board. I hope you can easily find and fix the problem. Steve

      1. Pretty sure it isn’t the rollout or pressure switch, since the furnace will run normally if I light it manually. Resetting it with the main electrical switch doesn’t get it to power the ignitor, so it’s probably not the limit switch, either. I hate to buy another part and try to hook up a new control unit if it’s not going to solve the problem, but I’m considering it.

      2. Hi Mark! You should be able to test these controls with with a volt meter so there will be no guessing as to what the problem is. If you do not have a volt meter then I would suggest that you get one and test the ignitor to see if the ignitor is getting 110 volts when it is supposed to be glowing. You can do all kinds of tests using a volt and ohm meter to make sure that you do not waste your money on a control board. I hope you can find the definite problem so you do not have to worry about wasting money on parts that are not the problem. Steve

  21. If an ignitor is bad will the furnace be shut down completely? It shows no power at all. Blower does not run in on position. I cleaned the ignitor when it was doing this a few weeks ago and it started immediately. It had no power at that time too.

    1. Hi Mr. Martinez! No sir, if an ignitor is bad the furnace will not shut down completely. This sounds like you have a high voltage issue. I would make sure that you are getting 120 volts going into your furnace between L1 and neutral on your control board. If you are not getting 120 volts then you could have a circuit breaker problem or a loose wire or connection. I would also suggest that if you have a fuse on the control board or transformer that you check the fuse out to make sure it is good. We have a furnace troubleshooting flow chart: https://arnoldservice.com/furnace-trouble-shooting-flow-chart/ and many questions with answers and videos on the following page: https://arnoldservice.com/furnace-troubleshooting-questions-answers-index/ I hope you can easily find and fix the problem. Steve

  22. I have replaced my igniter on my weeks diamond 80 furnace 3 times over the last 2 week, the furnace is 19 years old

    1. We discuss this problem and causes on the following page under, “Below are listed some reasons that might cause your ignitor to go out prematurely”. Here is a link to that page: https://arnoldservice.com/gas-electric-furnace-troubleshooting-simplified-2/ I hope this helps you out. Steve

  23. I have a luxaire furnace model #g9t06010upb13c that keeps burning out ignitors continuously. Three so far. What could be the problems.
    Thank You
    Cosimo Roarco
    Have a nice day

    1. Sorry to hear that your ignitor is going out often. I would like to suggest that you check to make sure the ignitor is shutting off after the furnace gas ignites. If the ignitor is staying on then this will of course shorten the ignitor’s life. If the ignitor is staying on then you probably have a stuck relay on the control board. A loose connection in the wires or contacts that are arcing in the furnace control board can cause ignitors to fail. About half way down the following page we discuss why ignitors go out prematurely: https://arnoldservice.com/gas-electric-furnace-troubleshooting-simplified-2/ If it turns out that you need a control board then our Luxaire program shows that your furnace uses the S1-33103010000 control board that we sell on the following page: https://arnoldservice.com/product/s1-33103010000-york-furnace-control-board/ I hope you can easily find and fix the problem. Steve

  24. I had similar issues to the previous commenters. I had the ignition switch replaced and went to bed happy that it was working. When I woke up this morning I noticed that the t-stat was below the heat temp. So I went to the furnace and nothing was happening. I looked at my house’S control panel and the breaker was tripped. I reset the breaker and the furnaces kicked back on but now it seems like the igniter is bad again. Is it possible that the wrong igniter was used in my repair?

    Thanks

    1. Hi Dustin! The question is why did your furnace breaker go out. Most of the time with an ignitor problem the breaker will stay on. Please be careful and check the wire connections on the breaker to make sure they are good and tight. We had an electrician who did some remodeling for us and installed a new breaker box. Several breakers started tripping for no reason. I took the cover off the new electrical panel and found out that probably half the wires that went into the breakers were loose. I tightened all the breaker screws and we have not had any problems. Also, please watch the ignitor and make sure it is turning off after the gas lights. Also make sure it is not glowing erratic like my ignitor was doing last night! We had furnace ignitor problem last night with our Bryant 90I furnace. The ignitor was out so I replaced the ignitor. After starting the furnace up after the ignitor replacement I see and hear the ignitor not making good contact with some control on the furnace making some weird noises. The ignitor was going off and on during warm up. To make a long story short it turns out that the pressure switch was not making good contact. After replacing the pressure switch everything worked fine. I am glad I had an extra ignitor and pressure switch on hand. I had just replaced the ignitor last winter and I assume that the pressure switch that caused the ignitor to work erratic was why the ignitor failed so soon. Please send me your furnace model number if you would like for me to look it up and see which ignitor or parts your furnace uses. Please email me at the arnoldservice@gmail.com email address and I will be glad to look part up. I hope you can easily find and fix the problem. Steve

    2. Have issue today with ignitor on a Rheem criterion. Noticed ignitor begins to glow for a few seconds and stops and about a minute later attempts to get warm again. This time it does get a little warmer, but only a 1/4 of the ignitor is orange. Normal click(s) and the blower but no lighting takes place. Does this sound like an ignitor going bad?

      1. Hi Dustin! This sounds more like a control board problem with the ignitor relay on the control board at fault. Please make sure all connections on the control board are tight. If you can, try to test the ignitor power output with a volt meter. If the power going to the ignitor is a constant 120 volts when it is supposed to be glowing and the ignitor is going off and on then this is an ignitor problem. If the voltage varies then this is probably a control board problem. If you would like for me to look up parts…please send your furnace’s model number and serial number to our arnoldservice@gmail.com email address and I will be glad to look up the parts. I hope you can easily find and fix the problem. Steve

      2. New ignitor solved the problem. $22 vs a $150 quote.

        Why doesn’t Home Depot or Lowe’s carry this small part? Seems to be popular.

      3. Hi Robert!
        I have no idea why they would not sell ignitors other than because they are fragile and can be broken easy and if a customer does not know how to handle an ignitor properly without touching the carbide tip then this could cause lots of warranty problems for Lowes and Home Depot. I hope you have a great day! Steve

  25. I replaced my ignitor and it did not glow so I replaced my board as well and still nothing. The motor and everything else kicks on calling for heat but I can’t get the ignitor to turn on

    1. Hi Jim! Sorry to hear your heat is out. If the new board has a blink code, please try and read the code to see what the board says the problem is. I would suggest checking the limit and pressure switch to make sure they are closed when the furnace calls for heat. If the furnace has rollout switches please make sure all of these are closed. Some rollouts have buttons on them that you can push in to reset. Please follow the furnace troubleshooting flow chart that we have on the following page: https://arnoldservice.com/furnace-trouble-shooting-flow-chart/ I hope you can easily find and fix the problem. Steve

  26. Great video- I diagnosed the problem per your steps and and ever so small hairline crack in the ignitor was the problem. It actually worked sporadically (which had me stumped) but finally quit. I think the hairline crack and surrounding white discoloration were the giveaway.
    New ignitor, cleaned the flame sensor- should be good until next time!
    Thanks.

    1. Awesome! I am very happy to hear you found the problem and got it fixed! Great that you saved lots of $$$ doing the repair yourself! Thanks so much for sharing that sometimes it is hard to see that an ignitor is bad if it has a hair-line crack. We are looking forward to doing business with you in the future! Steve

  27. Recently installed new flame sensor and igniter. Tested furnace all worked well. Weather warmed up did not need furnace for two weeks. Weather changed, set t-stat, inducer started, no ignition. I did notice a steady red light on the control board. No blinking. I have cycled the unit several times, heard the click as if the gas valve opened and still no ignition. Could it be the contro board or is it possible that it is the igniter?

    As luck would have it, we are headed for 30 degrees this weekend.

    Any direction would be appreciated.

    1. Hi Mr. DeGuilio!
      Sorry to hear that you are having furnace problems. About the only way to tell where the problem is would be to test the controls with a volt meter. The problem could be coming from the control board or any of the safety controls (pressure switch, limit or rollout switch). You can test the ignitor with an ohm meter to see if it is good or not. We have a pretty good trouble shooting flow chart and what to look for on our Furnace Troubleshooting Simplified page. Here is a link to that page: https://arnoldserv.wpengine.com/gas-electric-furnace-troubleshooting-simplified-2/ I hope you can easily find and fix the problem. If you need for me to look up parts please send me your furnace’s model number. I hope you have a nice day and weekend!
      Steve Arnold, https://arnoldserv.wpengine.com

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