Posted on

Problem: Draft inducer will not start, ignitor will not glow or gas valve will not open.

Problem: Draft inducer will not start, ignitor will not glow or gas valve will not open.

FYI:  *You would be surprised how many people go without heat or cooling for hours/days and all the problem they have is the switch on the side of the furnace is not turned on or the blower door is loose after they change a filter! One customer blamed his cat for turning it off! LOL!  I try to go over this with my customers before I make a service call so I do not waste their money.

Solution: Any combination of the above problem or problems could be caused by a bad furnace control board or bad draft inducer. I always troubleshoot and test the least expensive parts first, such as the thermostat, pressure switch, limit switch and rollout switches to make sure they are all closed and operating correctly before I go to the control board. First, and most important things to remember is turn your electrical power off to the furnace. We have a real good Youtube video below that shows the 8 top problems when a furnace draft inducer will not start. This excellent video was made by acservicetech. Thanks to acservicetech for making this great video!

1. The first thing that is supposed to start when a furnace starts up is the draft inducer. If the draft inducer does not start then you probably either have a thermostat , thermostat wiring problem, electrical problem, control board problem or a bad draft inducer.

2. Tape the blower door safety switch shut (if equipped) and set your thermostat so it is calling for heat.  Us a volt meter set to “Volts AC” and test between terminals W (usually white wire) and C (Com) and see if you are getting 24 to 28 volts between these two terminals. If you are getting 24 to 28 volts between the W and C terminals then your thermostat and thermostat wiring are in good shape and doing what they are supposed to be doing. If you aren’t getting any voltage then you might have a bad thermostat, bad thermostat wiring, not getting 110 volts to the furnace (make sure switch on furnace is flipped on and blower door safety switch is pushed in) or a blown fuse on the control board. We have a picture of a fuse on the control board below. Most of the time you can get these fuses at a local hardware store.  You would be surprised how many people go without heat or cooling for hours and days and all the problem they have is the switch on the side of the furnace is not turned on or the blower door is loose after they change a filter! I try to go over this with my customers before I make a service call. If the fuse on the control board is blown this usually means that you have a short in the low voltage circuit of the furnace. Most of the time I find that the animals have chewed through the thermostat wires and shorted them out or the thermostat wires over time have been pinched around the body of the furnace or air handler which has caused them to short out. You will probably need to replace your thermostat wire if you find it has shorted the fuse out. If the fuse does not fix the problem with the low voltage then you may have burnt out the transformer. We sell some transformers on the following page: Please click here if you are interested in seeing the transformers we sell. You should have a constant 24 to 28 volts AC between the R (red) and C (com) terminals on the control board no matter how the thermostat is set. This is the power coming right off the low voltage transformer.  If you do not have 24 to 28 volts between R and C then you probably need a new transformer.

3. Most control boards are located in the blower compartment. Many control boards have a fuse located on them to protect the board from getting burned up if you have a short to ground. The fuse is usually a 3 to 5 amp fuse similar to the fuses that you might find in a car’s fuse box. Please see picture below of the furnace control board: If you find that the control board or draft inducer is at fault we sell many different types of control boards and draft inducers. Please send us your furnace’s model number and we will be glad to look it up and see which control board or draft inducer your furnace uses. Our email address is: support@arnoldservice.com

 

 

If your fuse is blown you will want to check and see if any of the low voltage thermostat wires are touching the metal frame of the furnace or grounding out. Most of the time I see fuses that are blown from animals chewing through the thermostat wires and from the wires grounding out to the body of the furnace where the wires enter or exit the furnace. The vibration of the furnace over time sometimes wears through the wires insulation and causes a short to ground. I would try a new fuse first, then if the fuse blows again you are going to need to find out where the wires are shorting out. This can be quiet time consuming. If you get tired of burning up fuses we have a tool called the LiL Popper that has a button you can push in when the fuse blows instead of having to throw away fuses. We sell the Lil Popper on the following page: Please click here if you are interested in seeing the Lil Popper tool that we sell.

If your fuse is OK, tape your door safety switch shut so you can view the status LED light on the control board with the furnace power on. Please remember to turn the power back off before touching anything inside the furnace. I do not want to hear of anyone getting hurt or shocked! Turn your thermostat up so it is calling for heat. Let the furnace cycle and see if the Status LED flashes a code. The directions for reading the code are usually located on the furnace door. The code will usually tell you what is wrong with the furnace. Technology is amazing! Best of luck on repairing your furnace. Please remember to turn that power back off before touching anything.


182 thoughts on “Problem: Draft inducer will not start, ignitor will not glow or gas valve will not open.

  1. Hello Steve,
    I have a Carrier 58STA-70 with the led flashing continuously. The fault says check for correct line voltage polarity. It’s single phase, 110 vac incoming. The neutral wire is correct and connected to L2. L2 on the control board is all the neutral connections of the other components. The hot lead (black) goes thru the safety cover switch then to L1 on the board and onto the blower motor.

    I do not get the inducer motor to come on but I believe it’s because this flashing led. The 24 vac transformer is working correctly and all the safeties seem to be correct. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.

    Thanks,
    Kevin

    1. Hi Kevin! Sorry that you are having trouble with the control board installation. I do not know which board you are installing. I would have to look at the wiring diagram or control board instructions to advise you. I am afraid to advise you to reverse change up L1 and L2. I would suggest trying to connect the neutral wire to one of the neutral connections and see what happens. Usually on a 110-volt system as you know there is an L1 (line one) and a neutral. Sorry that I can not be much help. Steve

  2. I have a weathermaker 9200 carrier induction motor not coming on. I have checked the thermostat its ok also run component sequence check all runs good including induction motor. When i run it in normal mode the motor will not come on. I checked power from board to motor and no power in normal mode. Could it be control board does the component sequence test bypass the control board letting it run during the test and not run in normal mode. I did change this board about 2 weeks ago and it ran fine for about 2 days . Could i have got a bad board?

    1. Hi Mr. Wells! If you are getting 24 to 28 volts between the W and C (com) terminals on your control board which shows that the thermostat is calling for heat and the draft inducer does not start then you either have a bad control board, a loose wire on the furnace or control board, or a bad draft inducer. If the draft inducer motor runs during the test mode then, of course, the draft inducer motor is good and I would think that you have a control board problem. I would suggest that you test the voltage that goes to the draft inducer motor when the furnace (thermostat) is calling for heat. If you are not getting 110 to 125 volts out to the draft inducer then the control board seems to be at fault. I hope you can easily find and fix the problem. Steve

  3. Hello Steve:
    I had to take a moment to thank you for the excellent YouTube video at the top of the page. The inducer motor on my York furnace wasn’t starting when I turned on the heat for the first time this season. I could hear a distinct humming sound coming from the motor, but it wasn’t turning. I was just getting stared with trying to figure out why and I was fortunate enough to find that video. Long story short, when I manually spun the motor I heard a noise like something scratching inside the housing and there was an initial feel of something binding. I turned some more and the impeller quickly freed up completely. When I turned the system back on, the motor ran and it fired up just like it was supposed to! I love it when it’s something simple! Apparently whatever that was…I’m thinking possibly a small bug or something…caused just enough of a bind to prevent the fan from starting. I’m thinking I should be good to go now because whatever was in there has probably been blown out. I suppose I could take the motor off and look inside the housing, but at this point it seems like overkill. What do you think? Again, thank’s for making available such a helpful diagnostic video that clearly explained where to look for and how to diagnose problems. Service call avoided! Time to celebrate!

    1. Hi Henry! Yes!!! Time to celebrate!!! Thanks for sharing this with me and others! Yes, as you say, I think it would be “overkill” to take the inducer apart and clean it out. The draft inducer motor can sometimes be like an automatic dishwasher. If the dishwasher does not run for a long time it can bind the bearings and have a hard time starting. Usually, some loosening up by turning the motor manually will solve the problem. So happy to hear that you got the inducer fixed and going strong. We will most certainly need it this winter. God bless you and your family today and always! Steve

      1. Hi, I also have to push the inducer motor fan blades with a dowell rod to get it spinning. After pushing it a few times, it will start spinning and the rest of the furnace goes through its sequence. But once the heat shuts off it doesn’t kick back on. (I hear the hum of the inducer and its hot.) Doe this mean the inducer has to be replaced or is there a trick to cleaning it. It’s very quiet so doesn’t sound like it is hitting anything.

      2. Hi Cathryn! Most of the time when you have to push the draft inducer fan blades to get it started this means that you either have a dragging bearing in the draft inducer and the draft inducer needs to be replaced or if your draft inducer has a capacitor then the draft inducer’s capacitor could be weak. If your inducer has a capacitor I would suggest having the capacitor tested to make sure it is good. Also make sure that if your furnace has a condensate drain for heating then make sure the condensate drain is open. A build-up of water in the draft inducer could cause it to not start or drag when starting. Most of the time a new draft inducer will be required to fix the problem. If you would like me to look up parts then please send me your furnace’s model number to arnoldservice@gmail.com. I hope you can get it fixed easily and inexpensively. Steve

  4. New Lennox system install: furnace (in-direct venting), evap coil and ac.
    Short cycling AC working great after replacing old style mercury tstat with digital tstat that is span adjustable.
    Furnace has yet to be put online. With call for heat, induction air mtr starts, pulling normal 2.0 amps.
    Exchanger heats and circulating blower starts. INDUCER MOTOR AMPERAGE CLIMBS TO OVER 6.0 AMPS AND
    UNIT GETS TOO HOT TO TOUCH. First thought is a back draft problem (negative pressure from a tightly
    insulated house) and direct vent to eliminate this. Your comments please.

    1. Hi Mr. White! I am sorry, but I am not very familiar with Lennox furnaces. I have no idea why the draft inducer would draw so many amps after the blower starts. I would like to suggest that you test the voltage that goes to the draft inducer motor. Maybe the control board has weak contacts for the inducer and this causes the draft inducer to draw high amps. Sorry that I can not give any insight into this problem. I have never heard of this happening with a draft inducer. Please let me know if you find a solution. Thanks! Steve

      1. Thank you for the quick response. Service tech scheduled tomorrow with Lennox rep.
        Bringing new control board and new inducer unit. Hoping for a good outcome. Will let you know what corrects the problem.

        Gary

      2. Thanks Gary! I would like to know why the draft inducer is running such high amps after the blower starts!

      3. Steve, this reply will not be too helpful. Service tech and Lennox Service Consultant could not duplicate the problem today. Unit was started multiple times without any high amperage across the inducer mtr. System is working great. They did replace the inducer mtr. because it had been subjected to abnormal high current during the new installation.
        Neither could offer a cause for this possibly intermittent problem. My best guess is that this problem, resulting in a burned out motor and furnace no start will occur again this winter on a cold weekend night!
        Thank you for your most valuable and informative web site. I will continue to visit here to keep up with my system and it’s repair.

        Gary

      4. Thanks so much Gary fro taking your time to let us know that the service techs could not find a reason for the problem. Yes! I hope this does not occur again on a cold winter’s night! Hope you have a great 4th of July week!
        Steve

  5. Hi Steve, I believe I have a problem with the control board on a Rheem RGPL-12EARMR. The draft inducer is not coming on when calling for heat from the thermostat. I tested the voltage to the controller from the thermostat and it is at 27V. There is however 0V measured on the terminals going to the draft inducer. Is there anything else that can be wrong or do I need to replace the control board? Thanks, Conrad

    1. Hi Conrad! I would try and find what the flash code on the control board is telling you. Your control board should have some LED lights that flash off and on and should let you read the code. The furnace control board code key should be on the furnace blower door label or somewhere on the furnace. Yes, if your control board is getting 24 to 28 volts between the W and C (com) terminals from the thermostat when your thermostat is calling for heat and 0 volts coming out of the control board going to the draft inducer then I would think that the control board is bad. Our Rheem Ruud parts progrma shows that your furnace uses control board part number: 62-102637-81 This control board
      62-102637-81 is a kit that comes with a new wiring harness and wiring diagram. I am sorry we do not stock or sell this control board. I hope you have a great day and week! Steve

  6. Hello Steve, I have a question that hopefully you can answer or give me some suggestions. I brought a house Oct. 27, The heater was not working so i had my dad check it out since he has some common knowledge on HVAC but obviously not a lot. He said it was the (Packard 48331 Goodman Replacement) draft inducer. I replaced it Nov. 3, 2017and it was heaven. House was warming up and working well. Ever since mid Feb. 2018 I wake up to a freezing house and its the draft inducer not turning on. When I turn the switche off and on I can get it to run after pushing in the (metal) middle part of the fan. The blades will start to spin and then the rest follows and the heater cones on. Sometimes you can hear the blades wanting to stop working or get stuck. And it may, which i will then have to repeat to get it to work. Other times it just stays on. The problem keeps happening after a week or so of working. If you have anything that may help me I would really, really appreciate it. Sorry for the long story and many thanks!

    1. Hi Jennifer! This sounds like you either need a new draft inducer again or a new control board. I would suggest testing with a volt meter set to “Volts AC” when the thermostat is calling for heat (turned up). You should be getting a minimum of 110 volts to the draft inducer at all times. If you are not getting at least 110 volts AC to the inducer at all times then you probably have a bad draft inducer relay on the control board and you will need a new control board to fix the problem. If you are getting 110 to 125 volts AC to the draft inducer and the draft inducer is not running then I would say that you need another new draft inducer. Maybe some rust or an animal fell down from your exhaust vent into the draft inducer and is keeping it from running. You should be able to spin the draft inducer easily with your finger. If not you have a draft inducer bearing problem. If you would like for me to look up parts then please send your furnace’s model number to our email address at: arnoldservice@gmail.com. I hope you can easily find and fix the problem. Steve

  7. Thanks for all the information!

    I’m having a strange issue where my thermostat is sending the heat signal and I can hear the relay on the control board engage, but the inducer motor does not turn on and the ignition control box starts flashing 3 solid green lights, meaning the pressure control switch is stuck open.

    Does it make sense that the pressure switch would stop the inducer from engaging? I’ve already replaced the control board and checked all the limit switches I see. I don’t know where my capacitor is, but I suppose that could prevent the inducer from engaging. Any thoughts on where I should look next?

    Thanks again,
    Trevor

    1. Hi Trevor! This sounds like you need a new draft inducer. You are getting the “stuck open” pressure switch fault because the draft inducer is not running and not making any negative pressure. The pressure switch problem would not cause the draft inducer to not run. I would suggest that you try to check and see if the draft inducer is getting between 110 to 125 volts AC. If it is getting the 120 volts and not working then you will need a new draft inducer. If you want me to look up parts please send me the make and model number of your furnace to our email address at: arnoldservice@gmail.com. I hope you can easily find and fix the problem. Steve

      1. Thanks Steve!

        I may email you soon – I did a meter test on the wiring to the inducer and it’s not getting 120 volts, so the issue must be between the control board and the inducer. The only thing I can think of is the ignition controller or capacitor, although I can’t see a capacitor anywhere on my unit.

        It’s pretty confusing – something seems to be preventing the inducer from starting, which stops everything else. This seems to trigger an open pressure control switch message on the igniter unit when pressure isn’t created. Perhaps a wiring issue? I’m pretty sure it’s haunted.

        Thanks again!
        Trevor

      2. Hi Trevor! If the draft inducer is not receiving 120 volts from the control board when the thermostat is calling for heat then more than likely your control board is at fault. I would suggest making sure you are getting 120 volts to the control board between L1 and a neutral connection. I would suggest that you turn your fan to “Fan ON” on the thermostat to make sure the control board is getting 120 volts. Let me know if you want me to look up parts. Steve

  8. Steve. I have a Lennox g40uh36a07015 gas furnace. Furnace will not start, steps of operation step one inducer motor does not start. I turn the power on/off to the furnace to reset the diagnostic code flash slow green. 1 out of 10 times the furnace will run its cycle once temperature is met but will not restart when temp drops even though the thermostat is telling the furnace to heat. So I know the inducer motor works. Does this sound like a board issue?

    1. Hi Jake! Yes, this sounds like a control board problem or a loose wire problem. I would suggest that you make sure that you are getting 110 to 125 volts between L1 and a neutral on your control board. Also check to make sure you are getting a constant 24 to 28 volts AC between the W and C (com) terminals on the control board when your thermostat is calling for heat. If not you could have a thermostat or a thermostat wire problem. I would suggest testing the two wires that go to the draft inducer when the thermostat is calling for heat. If you are not getting 110 volts to the draft inducer then I would say you have a control board problem. I hope you can easily find and fix the problem. Steve

  9. Hi Steve! I have a Payne furnace that I have recently replaced the blower motor, capacitor, limit start up switches and circuit board. I have even installed a new thermostat upstairs to be more energy efficient. Shortly after the new circuit board was installed I heard a pop, like from a short and the the furnace stop calling for heat. What I mean by this is the LED light is still glowing solid, so the board is getting 24V and the blower motor will still turn on when power is called to the unit. Our unit is to first turn on the blower motor to pull out any gases out of the unit since it is a high efficiency unit, then it goes through the normal steps. It is not calling for the draft inducer motor to come on. I am not getting any voltage between the W and Com or R and Com wires on the board. Was this pop a short to the draft inducer motor? Or should I be looking somewhere else?
    Thanks
    Michele

    1. Payne PG8MAA066110

    2. If you are not getting 24 volts between R and C (com) then you might have a blown fuse on the control board or a low voltage transformer that has gone out. You are testing the R and C (com) with the blower door safety switch taped down so the furnace is getting power. The first thing that you need to do is get the 24 volts back between R and C and with the thermostat calling for heat, 24 volts between W and C. If the fuse is blown on the board or if your transformer is burnt out then you must have a short in the low voltage wiring somewhere. You would need to find the short in the wires before replacing the fuse or the transformer or this will happen again. Your furnace uses transformer part number: HT680054 which we sell on the following page: https://arnoldservice.com/product/ht01bc116-bryant-carrier-furnace-transformer/ Please let me know what you find. It might be best to email me with questions so I can provide parts lists, etc at arnoldservice@gmail.com. I hope you can find the problem and get it fixed soon. Steve

  10. Hi Steve,

    I have a York GY9S060B12UP11K. I had a problem with inducer motor attempting to start up, then shutting down within a second. The exhaust fan comes on but nothing happens on the ignitor side. I have replace the pressure switch, the ignitor, the flame sensor and it would temporarily work, but the last two days the problem is back and I can no longer get the inducer to start. I also bought a new inducer and replaced that, it displays the same issue. Any ideas? Does this sound like a control board issue? I replaced the thermostat in fall, but also tried to swap the previous thermostat back in and that doesn’t change anything either. Let me know if you’ve seen anything like this. I am going to pick up a control board tomorrow

    1. One other thing I forgot to mention is that the control board gives me an error message 12, which translates to “open ignitor circuit”.

    2. Hi Mark! So sorry to hear that you have had all this trouble with your furnace during this cold spell! Yes, this sounds like the inducer relay on the control board is probably bad. If you are getting 24 to 28 volts AC between W and C (com) on your control board from the thermostat and the inducer is not running then this is a sure sign the control board is at fault or the draft inducer is bad and you said that you replaced the draft inducer so I would think control board. I hope the board fixes the problem and you have a warm week! God bless you and your family. Steve

      1. That was the culprit! Furnace is now purring like a kitten. Thanks so much for the advice! I really appreciate your taking the time to help a stranger solve his furnace issues!

      2. Fantastic! Awesome! glad to hear you were able to find the problem and fix the furnace! Thanks so much for your kind words and letting me know the great news! Steve

      3. Hi Steve,
        I have an old Rheem furnace that is not turning on intermittently. I have already replaced the draft inducer a few years back and all was well for a while. Recently, it is not starting up when heat is signaled for by the thermostat. However, if I go to the unit and unplug it, and then replug it, it fires up and will run for a half a day or so before stopping again. After reading your very helpful article, I decided to check the voltages. There is 30Volts between the R & C, so the transformer is OK. But, when the unit is not starting, yet is calling for heat, there is no voltage ( 0 volts ) between the W and C. So this certainly explains why it’s not starting. But interestingly, when I unplug and replug the unit, it starts up. Then when I check the voltages again, there is 30volts between the W and C. So I guess it’s not the inducer this time. For some reason the unit needs to be reset before the W and C voltage is working and properly calling for heat. The thermostat has new batteries, but I could try to switch it out. I am not sure what else to do. Thank you so much.

      4. Hi!
        This sounds like it could either be a thermostat problem, a loose thermostat wire problem or a control board problem. The thermostat should always send 24 to 28 volts between the W and C (com) terminals when the thermostat is calling for heat unless you have a faulty thermostat, faulty thermostat wires or a control board that is shorting the voltage out. This could be the draft inducer relay on the control board that is shorting things out. I am sorry that I can not be of more help and give more advice. I hope you can easily find and fix the problem. Steve

  11. Hi Steve, great information here! I have a Carrier Model 58PAV070-12. I get an error code that states either bad induction motor or bad capacitor. I get no voltage to the induction motor. I can’t locate the capacitor. Is it on the board? Is it replaceable? Or should I be getting a new board? Please help. Thank you.

    1. I have no voltage going to the induction motor. I have done all the continuity checks to the motor.

      1. Hi Joe! I will answer you through our email address: arnoldservice@gmail.com because I want to send you a parts list and make sure I am looking at the right furnace parts. Please let me know if you did not receive my email to you. I emailed you with a parts list earlier today. Steve

    2. Hi Joe! I will answer you through our email address: arnoldservice@gmail.com because I want to send you a parts list and make sure I am looking at the right furnace parts.

  12. I have a honeywell model st9120u4057 controller. i have read many articles regarding my situation. all articles point to checking the LED codes. my unit does not have an LED. my situation was as follows:
    Tstat calls for heat. Tstat model is Hunter model 44660
    burner startup sequence initiated. burner blower on, airflow detected, burner pilot ignite, burner ignite.
    begin circulating fan start delay.
    delay complete, fan not start.

    i am confused and cold so i turn on fan manually at my tstat. fan runs. i get warm. i do some troubleshooting, check fuse, check voltage etc. tstat reaches off temp, i wait for normal fan off delay time then turn fan back to auto. the tstat calls for heat, i wait and repeat the above 7 times.
    now as i was reading this article on your site, my tstat cycled again, however this time the circ fan started normally.
    thank you for helping ???
    still confused on where my LED would be or any other error code device is.

    1. Hi! Glad to hear that your fan started working right. The fan should be powered and timed by the furnace control board. Some control boards do not have diagnostic LED lights so you board obviously does not have one. The board should time the time between when the burners light and turn the fan on based on the time set in the control board computer chip or dip switches on the board. If the blower fan on your furnace does not start then the furnace burners should burn for a short while until the furnace’s limit cuts the burners off to keep the furnace from over-heating. This sounds like you might have a control board going out. I would suggest that you check all connections on the furnace to make sure they are good and tight. I would suggest that you check the capacitor on the blower motor to make sure it is in good shape. If you want me to look up parts then please send me your furnace’s model number to our email address at arnoldservice@gmail.com and I will try to look up parts. I hope your furnace keeps on working right. Steve

  13. My draft inducer will not come on, but if I go outside and tap it with rubber mallet, it starts and runs till temperature is reached. But when the temperature comes down, it will not come back on unless I go back and tap it again. The LED light blinks 3 times, but once I tap the inducer, it stays solid. It’s funny that all I have to do is gently tap the inducer. I’ve checked all wires, wiggled them but the unit doesn’t come on until I tap the inducer.

    1. Hi! This sounds like you have a bad motor winding (loose wire) in the draft inducer motor. I would suggest trying to test with a volt meter to see if the draft inducer is getting 110 volts AC when it will not start. If it is getting 110 to 125 volt AC and still will not start the you will need a new draft inducer. If it is not getting 110 volts AC then you will probably need a new control board or a draft inducer relay (if equipped). If you would like for me to look up parts, then please send me your furnace’s model number and serial number to our email address: arnoldservice@gmail.com. I hope you have a great day!
      Steve

  14. HI I love your website here thank you
    I have an issue with a keep rite furnace the inducer will not start

    it had a really dirty filter

    here is what I have done / checked so far

    removed high limit switch and tapped it ( appears ok )

    tested Voltage at the board 24 volts confirmed at board
    tested Voltage from board to smart gas valve 110 volts to valve
    tested Voltage from valve to inducer NONE
    BUT – If I disconnect a lead from the high limit switch the inducer and fan will cycle on but of coarse no ignition or gas …
    I replaced the gas valve and it ran for a few hrs then back to the same thing

    could this be a board issue
    Cheers Derek

    1. Hi Derek! I am sorry, but I do not know much about how the Smartvalves are set up. I know that many of our customers have had problems with the Honeywell Smartvalves. This could be either a Smartvalve problem or a furnace control board problem. If the draft inducer power runs from the Smartvalve then I would suspect it is a Smartvalve problem and you probably need to replace the Smartvalve. I am sorry that I can not give you a good answer. Here is a real good Youtube video that explains Smartvalve troubleshooting: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qjrrXmLlLRc I hope that the video helps you find the problem. If you would like for me to look up parts then please send me your furnace’s model number to our gmail address: arnoldservice@gmail.com I will be glad to try and help. Steve

    2. Did you ever figure out what was wrong and find a solution. I’m having the same issue.

  15. Hey Steve,

    Thanks a lot for the useful information. I have a J238-112-11128 115V (#B18590-05). When calling for heat my draft inducer turns on and spins however the burners don’t turn on. After noticing that the LED light blinks three times I did all the trouble shooting I could such as sucking on the hose to see if the pressure switch is working properly, remove the hose to the inducer and sticking a paper clip to remove anything that may be obstructing the inducer from blowing, clean the flame sensor. What ends up turning the burners on is when I pinch the hose that goes from the inducer to the pressure switch after sucking into it. This then triggers the igniter to turn on and the burners to function. Any other tips you could give to try and troubleshooting the inducer from blowing properly would be a big help. Wouldn’t mind saving a $150 bucks.

    1. Hi David! Sorry to hear that you are having trouble with your furnace. This sounds like a pressure switch problem or a furnace vent problem. I would suggest that you clean the draft inducer out with a vac if possible. I do not know what name brand furnace you have because I do not recognize the model number you provided but I know the B18590-05 is a Goodman draft inducer so I guess you have a Goodman furnace. I would suggest making sure the draft inducer is screwed tight to the furnace body so there are no leaks and make sure the draft inducer is clean and the hole where the pressure switch attaches is unobstructed. You already did this with a paper clip, but I would suggest making sure rust is not covering the hole back up. You might want to take a 1/16″ drill bit and drill the hole out to make sure it is open. I heard about a year ago to not suck on pressure switches to test them because this can damage the pressure switch. You might want to get a new pressure switch. If you want me to look up parts please send me your furnace’s model number to our email address: arnoldservice@gmail.com. I hope you can easily find and fix the problem. Steve

    2. I have a Trane xb80 that continually blows the 5 amp fuse on the control board when called for heat. I have replaced control board and transformer, I have jumped R to W to make sure Tstat is good, I have disconnected inducer and re-wired Tstat wires. Fuse keeps blowing. Fan works fine, a/c works fine. Fuse just keeps blowing immediatley on call for heat…

      1. So sorry to hear you are having this trouble with the fuse on the control board blowing when calling for heat. It sounds like you have replaced pretty much everything that could cause this problem. Most of the time the problem is in the thermostat wires which you say you replaced. This could also be a solenoid on the gas valve that has shorted out. I would suggest trying to run the heat with the gas valve disconnected and see if it still blows the fuse. We have a post about this problem on the following page, but it sounds like you have tried about everything that I recommend in the post: https://arnoldservice.com/problem-furnace-air-conditioner-heat-pump-will-not-come-on/ You have a low voltage short somewhere it is just the problem of finding where the short is located. I would suggest taking the wires completely loose from the thermostat and tie the W (white) and R (red) wires together disconnected from the thermostat and see if this fixes the problem. It sounds like you have a short somewhere in the W (white) wire because the problem only occurs in heat. I would also suggest trying to disconnect all the wires at the control board and jump the W and R terminals at the control board and see if the heat works. If the heat works then you know you have a problem with the thermostat or thermostat wiring. If it still blows the fuse then you have a problem with the furnace control board or something on the furnace like the gas valve or other component shorting out. I sure hope you can find this problem soon! Best of luck! Steve

  16. Hi I have a Carrier 58CTA110-12 furnace & it’s working correctly. When I have a call for heat inducer does not start. I can turn fan on & that works but no heat.

    1. Hi Anthony! Did you read the post above where we discuss the problem that you are having. I can not suggest anymore than what I wrote in the post. This could be a control board problem or a bad draft inducer. If you want me to look up parts for your furnace then please send me your furnace’s product number to our email address: arnoldservice@gmail.com and I will be glad to look up parts for you. I hope you can easily find and fix the problem. Steve

  17. Hi Steve,

    Lots of great advice you provide, very much appreciated. I have a Trane TUD100R936J0. When I call for heat the draft inducer motor just makes a humming noise and does not spin, but gets quite hot to the touch. Do I need to replace the motor or could something else be the culprit? I am able to spin the fan by hand with little resistance.

    Thanks,

    Jeremiah

    1. Hi Jeremiah! Since you can spin the draft inducer fan with little resistance then more than likely you need a new draft inducer or you have low voltage going to the draft inducer. I would suggest that you test the voltage going to the draft inducer with a volt meter set to “Volts AC”. You should be getting 110 to 125 volts AC going to the draft inducer. If you are not getting 110 to 120 volts then you probably need a new control board. Our Trane program shows that your furnace uses draft inducer part number: BLW01321 which we sell on the following page: https://arnoldservice.com/product/blw01312-american-standard-trane-furnace-draft-inducer-blower/ We have the inducer in stock. If you need a control board Trane shows that your furnace uses KIT15943. We do not stock the Kit. I hope you have a great day! Steve

  18. Thanks Steve. Your very clearly-explained procedures just saved me. I had a faulty thermostat.
    David

    1. Awesome! Fantastic! Glad to hear that you were able to find the problem. Thanks for letting me know! Steve

  19. Steve, I have a Bryant 310AA and it is not heating. It came on randomly a couple of times and stopped again. It has a code 23 – Pressure Switch did not open. The inducer motor is not turning on when calling for heat. This is why I believe I am getting the code 23. I checked voltage at the motor and have 0VAC. I then checked at the connections on the control board and still have 0VAC. I checked voltage to the furnace and have 120VAC. I then checked voltage at R and C 24VAC and W and C 24VAC on the control board. The 3 amp fuse is good also. I figured the inducer motor relay was bad and replace the board. After replacing the board, it had the exact same symptoms. However, when turning the safety switch back on after checking voltages, it started working and worked for about a day and has now stopped working. I’ve studied the wiring diagram and read the start up sequence and it seems like there isnt much that would stop the inducer motor from starting. Did I miss/over look something? Any suggestions?

    Patrick

    1. Hi Patrick! Sorry to hear you are having problems with your furnace. I would suggest checking all wire connections and make sure they are good and tight. I would also suggest turning the thermostat up so the heat is on and you are getting 24 to 28 volts AC across the W and C terminals on your control board, then test the voltage coming out of the control board that goes to the draft inducer like you did before. If you are getting 110 volts to the draft inducer and it is not running then of course you need a new draft inducer. If you aren’t getting voltage to the draft inducer then you either have a loose wire connection or another bad control board. I hope you can easily find and fix the problem. Steve

      1. I have a Bryant 340AAV. It’s 5 years old and installed as new construction. Vents are clean, returns are unobstructed and my gems are open. Circuits aren’t popped and the switch is ON. Filter is pointing towards the furnace as well. My inducer blower isn’t running. I don’t have an error code since my Red LED is lit up with no blinking light. I have replaced the air filter, put new batteries in the thermostat and did the basic troubleshooting. When I call for heat I hear everything cycle and go thru the motions but the Fan never kicks on. The motor spins freely when I spin it manually. At this point I am between the pressure switch and the inducer motor. Would you agree, and what might you suggest for next steps?

      2. Hi David! This sounds like either control board problem or a draft inducer problem. Please make sure the thermostat is calling for heat and you are getting 24 to 28 volts AC between the W and C terminals on your control board. You might have to tape the blower door safety switch closed so you can test the voltages on the control board. If you are not getting 24 volts between W and C (com) then you have a thermostat or thermostat wiring problem. If you aren’t getting 110 volts to the draft inducer then you have a control board problem. I will need your full furnace product number in order to look up parts. I hope you can easily find and fix the problem. Steve

  20. I have a dual fuel packaged Frigidaire/Nordyne Df6sf unit that came form factory wired for high fire gas only. I am using a Honeywell IAQ VisionPro stat. It has ran like this for 5 years. In these 5 years it has also short cycled when in high fire only. Recently it was wired, as per installation manual, for low fire and high fire gas operation. Problem is that now when it has a call for aux heat stage 1(low fire gas) the inducer starts, 30 seconds later ignitor lights and gas valve opens. Burners will run for about a minute until it limits out and gas is shutdown. It limits because the internal blower never comes on. This seems to be an intermittent problem. Sometimes it is fine for a few cycles then it will not. It mostly does not work. If I rewire like it came form factory(high fire only), internal blower will start as it should. Any suggestions? I am thinking furnace control board.

    1. Yes, to me this sounds like a control board problem because the control board on many of the newer units control the time that the gas lights before the blower comes on not unless you have a seperate fan/blower control like the Honeywell control we sell on the following page: https://arnoldservice.com/product/l4064b2210-honeywell-fan-and-limit-control-switch/. I really do not understand why the furnace blower works properly in high heat, but not in low heat. The only thing that I can think would be a control board problem. I hope you can easily find and fix the problem. Steve

  21. Steve, I had a licensed furnace guy come out and check out my gas heater. He thought that I had multiple issues and suggested a new control board and gas valve. He also showed me how much his company would charge for the repairs….$780! Anyway, I wanted to see why my draft inducer wasn’t getting the required 110 volts during a call for heat. After reading online that the smart gas valve does need to be working properly in order to send voltage to the draft inducer, I followed the wiring between the inducer and the gas valve to verify the connection. I removed the connectors from the gas valve and removed the plastic gas valve cover. I know the photo is not that great, but I can tell that the integrated circuit on the board circled in blue has overheated and is distorted plus the area circled in yellow has a crusty white deposit. So, I will be getting a new gas valve. In the mean time, I’ve been able to help the furnace start by sucking the vacuum line.
    Jerry
    https://arnoldservice.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/03/smartvalve-burnt-board.png

    1. Thanks so very much for your information on how a Honeywell Smartvalve can cause a furnace draft inducer to not work! I hope this will help other people out who have this problem.

      1. Is this how all furnaces operate? I’m having the same issue as Jerry in that there is no power from the control board to the inducer motor (all other functions appear to operate correctly during the sequence of operations, and i have appropriate power at R and W).
        I was going to replace the control board, but am curious if the gas valve is part of the control circuit for most/all furnaces?
        FWIW, I have a Payne Day and Night furnace (equivalent to Bryant 376CAV series F)

      2. Hi Travis! Most of the time the control board is responsible for turning on the draft inducer if the thermostat is sending power between the W and C(com) terminals on the control board. I would suggest that you check to see if you are or are not getting 110 volts to the draft inducer when the thermostat is calling for heat. If you are getting 110 volts to the inducer motor and the inducer is not running then you have a bad draft inducer motor. I have heard sometimes that with the Honeywell Smartvalve gas valves that the gas valve sometimes controls the draft inducer, but looking at product number 376CAV024050AFJA this furnace does not have a Honeywell Smartvalve so you probably need a control board. If you would like for me to recommend a control board please send me your furnace’s product number and I will be glad to look it up. Send your information to our email address: arnoldservice@gmail.com. Thanks! Steve

      3. Thanks for the info, Steve.
        I did check the voltage out of the control board to the draft inducer–it’s about 1.7 VAC before the thermostat calls for heat, and it bumps up to about 2.8 VAC during the heat call.

        There’s definitely power 120VAC to the board–I’ve checked L1 and L2, and everything else (blower motor, flame igniter) run just fine during the sequence of operations test.

        I’ll get the exact part number for you when I get home.

      4. Hi Travis! This sounds like a control board problem. It would be best to send your furnace model number and other correspondence to our arnoldservice@gmail.com email address. Thanks! Steve

  22. Hi Steve. I have a York furnace that I’m working on M#PV9C20N100UP12A
    S#W0N6293473
    There is a really bad electrical burn smell coming through the vents. I opened the furnace but can’t pin point where the smell is coming from. I noticed the inducer motor siezed. I replaced the limit switch on the inducer motor and the motor ran. It operated normally for a few minutes then it gave me an error code 11. It shut off and I was unable to get it started back up. Any suggestions? It was running normally before I replaced the limit switch but the whole house smelled like electrical burn really bad.
    Thanks

    1. Most of the time burning smells that occur through the vents of a home because the windings on the blower motor have melted and burned. I have had customers call the fire department when this happens. This could be caused by a draft inducer motor that has burned up. If you are getting 110 volts to the draft inducer and it is not coming on then you will need a new draft inducer. I would suggest turning the thermostat to “Fan ON” and make sure the blower motor works. If it doesn’t then you will need a new blower motor. It looks like from the parts that your furnace has a two-stage inducer motor part number S1-02434589000 We do not stock this draft inducer. This is what I found when I googled the part number: https://www.google.com/#q=S1-02434589000+draft+inducer+motor&* It looks like you have an ECM blower motor and these are real expensive. I would suggest that you call in a tech if it is the blower motor. Most of the time the ECM control module goes out on the blower motors instead of the entire motor. Please see the screen shot of parts for your furnace that I copied from our York parts program: screencast .com/t/6zYlKI6ccCE I hope you can find and fix the problem soon. Steve

      1. Hi Steve. I have a York furnace that I’m working on M#PV9C20N100UP12A
        S#W0N6293473
        There is a really bad electrical burn smell coming through the vents. I opened the furnace but can’t pin point where the smell is coming from. I noticed the inducer motor siezed. I replaced the limit switch on the inducer motor and the motor ran. It operated normally for a few minutes then it gave me an error code 11. It shut off and I was unable to get it started back up. Any suggestions? It was running normally before I replaced the limit switch but the whole house smelled like electrical burn really bad.
        Thanks

        Thanks for the quick response. The blower motor was the first thing I checked and it seemed to be functioning properly. Could the inducer motor emit this electrical burn smell as well?

      2. Yes, the draft inducer motor could produce and electrical burning smell as well since it is an electric motor. The parts list shows that you have an ECM blower motor. Glad to hear the blower motor is working because these are real expensive to replace. Steve

      3. Sorry to bug but I just want to make sure it’s the inducer before I replace it because these are expensive to replace. Would the inducer produce the burning electrical smell even if it was spinning? It seemed to be working but then it stopped. I replaced the limit switch and it kicked in but I got a code with 11 red blinks l. I opened the blower cabinet to check the code and when I put it back the furnace wouldn’t kick on. Thanks for all your help Steve

      4. The only way to tell if it is actually the draft inducer would be to set the thermostat to call for heat and test to see if the draft inducer is getting 110 volts from the control board. If it is getting 110 volts from the board and not running then you need a new draft inducer. If it isn’t getting 110 volts then you either have a control board problem, thermostat problem or a thermostat wire problem. Please make sure all connections are good and tight. Steve

      5. Thanks for all your help Steve. This is a new one for me. I’ve been reading all over the Internet and haven’t come across this on any threads. I’m gonna do some checking and I’ll let you know what I find. You’ve been a great help!
        Marc

      6. Yes, please let me know when you find out what the problem is. Thanks! Steve

  23. My hot surface ignitor went bad and when I replaced it, it did turn on but it appeared to get so hot that it shattered. Now the draft inducer isn’t kicking on. I’m thinking the limit switch or low power transformer fried but once those are fixed what should I test to see what’s killing the ignitor.

    1. Hi Aaron! You may have installed a faulty ignitor that caused your problem. If the ignitor shorted out then it could have messed up the control board. I would suggest that you check between R and C (com) to see if you are getting 24 volts from the transformer. If you need a new transformer and after you replace the transformer, only allow the transformer to be on for a short period of time 5 to 10 seconds to make sure it is not going to burn up again. If you feel the transformer getting hot turn it off and start checking for shorts to ground in the electrical system. Please check the fuse on the control board to make sure it is good. Most of the time low voltage transformers burn up when there is a short to ground. Most of the time on the low voltage side and caused by thermostat wires that have shorted out. I would recommend making sure none of your low voltage wires are shorted or pinched. I would suggest going through the troubleshooting flow chart to see what is wrong: https://arnoldservice.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/12/furnace-troubleshooting-flow-chart.pdf We also have lots of troubleshooting questions and answers on the following page: https://arnoldservice.com/furnace-troubleshooting-questions-answers-index/ If you have any specific questions please let me know. Thanks! I hope you can easily find and fix the problem.

  24. I have an Amana heater. Inducer motor was not starting, and had the 3 flashing LED signaling a pressure switch problem. I replaced the pressure switch, and it worked one cycle, but that’s it. I noticed that the inducer motor was really hot to the touch. I used a screwdriver and gently pushed the fin of the blower, and it slowly spun up and ran like a charm. So, I think the problem is with the inducer motor/fan. So, my question is whether I replace the condenser mounted on the side of the inducer motor, the inducer motor itself, or the entire inducer motor/fan. Any thoughts? Thanks so much!!!

    1. Hi Mr. Prazak! I would suggest that you replace the entire inducer motor assembly since the motor was hot and you had to assist the inducer motor to get it started. Most of the time it is hard to get the inducer fan blower wheel off the inducer motor shaft so I would recommend replacing everything. Please send me your furnace’s model number if you would like for me to use our Amana parts program to find out which draft inducer your furnace uses. I hope you have a great day! Steve

    2. You can remove the inducer and hook it up to a power source if it takes 115V. That’s how I checked my inducer motor – 2 pieces of wires connect inducer motor adapter and a power cord. If it runs, then it’s good. But my problem is not there.

      1. Hi Phil! Yes, you could test the draft inducer by hooking it directly up to 115 volts Ac. It would be best to test the inducer while it is hooked up to the control board. If you can trace the wires down that go to the draft inducer from the control board you can test at the control board and determine if you have a control board problem or a draft inducer problem. If you have 115 volts going into the control board between L1 and neutral and with the thermostat calling for heat you should get 115 volts to the draft inducer. If not you probably have a control board problem. I hope you can easily find and fix the problem. Steve

  25. Hi Steve and thanks for your support here!
    I have an Amana furnace which will not fire. When I call for heat, the inducer fan comes on, but one of the pressure switches will not change state. The switch is okay (removed and tested with a DVM) as I can suck on it and it will work okay – in fact when I do this the entire furnace does come on and fire up.
    I have checked for leaks around the inducer housing and find nothing. I know I am not pulling enough vacuum to change the switch which is a matter of throughput, so I suspect the vent to the outside may be plugged although I have no way to prove that and I’m not getting on the roof (this is a furnace in the attic of my house).
    My question is; are there any filters inside the furnace (not the main one) on or around the inducer fan/motor itself that may be clogged?
    I have a small rubber grommet inserted into the vent pipe – presumably to test whether the fan is working or not, and when I remove it there is plenty of flow so I assume the fan is running okay? It sounds like it’s running at full speed anyway with no unusual sounds. Any thoughts? Thanks, Pete

    1. Hi Pete!
      The only thing that I can think might be your problem would be that you might need a new pressure switch. I did not know this until about a year ago, but we should not suck on pressure switches to test a pressure switch because this is said to damage the diaphram inside the switch. I do not know the model number of your Amana furnace so I do not know if this is a condensing furnace with a drain or not. Most of the time they will not install condensing furnaces in attics because the water can freeze. If you do have a drain on your furnace please make sure it is not clogged up. Please make sure you are running the furnace with the blower door attached so there is no negitive pressure where the furnace is located. I would suggest that you try one short cycle with the vent pipe removed to see if the pressure switch will work with the vent piping removed. This would help determine if the vent is stopped up. You might want to clean the draft inducer out with a vac while the vent pipe is removed. If this does not fix it I would suggest a new pressure switch and follow the problems we discuss on the following page: https://arnoldservice.com/how-to-test-and-troubleshoot-gas-furnace-pressure-switches/ If you want to send me a model number I will be glad to send you a parts list. Please email me at arnoldservice@gmail.com. I hope you can easily find and fix the problem. Steve

  26. Hi Steve, I’ve got a problem with a Goodman GMP-75-03 gas furnace. It worked for one night this winter and then no heat. 24v checks OK at the thermostat. There is no response to command for heat or blower fan, either from the thermostat or by jumpering the wires. Control board fuse is OK. Status light shows solid red until I close the safety switch and then it goes to three blinks after a few seconds. The inducer never attempts to start so of course that is why the pressure switch isn’t opening. The inducer blower is less than a year old. I replaced it myself and it worked fine after replacement and worked that one day this fall.

    I’m inclined to suspect the board and I have ordered a replacement. Does this make sense or are there other suspects to check? Thanks!

    1. Hi Patrick! Yes, this sounds like a control board problem. If you are getting 120 volts to L1 and neutral on the control board from your power switch and getting 24 to 28 volts between W and C (com) when the thermostat is calling for heat and there is not 120 volts coming out of the control board to power the draft inducer then this most certainly sounds like a control board problem. If you are getting 120 volts to the draft inducer and it is not running then you would have a draft inducer problem. I hope you can easily find and fix the problem. Steve

  27. Hey Steve, Thanks for this site. I like fixing things myself. I think I’ve been able to zero in, or at least rule out on what might be wrong with my Tempstar furnace, NTP6075GFB.

    When calling for heat, I can hear the thermostat click, and then, I can hear and feel a click on one of the relays on the control board of the heater. I have a good fuse on the control board. There is 28 volts between C and W1, also C and W2. There is 28 volts between C and R too. There is 28v between the blue and yellow wires from the transformer on the control board. However, the inducer never turns on. There will be 0 volts between the black and white wires leading to the inducer motor. Also, 0 volts between the red and white wires to the inducer. I will get 2 flashes from the gas valve box…low pressure valve stuck closed.

    I tested the low pressure valve and show no ohms between the two spades when the furnace is off. When I disconnect the vacuum tube and lightly apply suction to it, I get 0 ohms, meaning continuity.

    I can help the inducer motor to start by disconnecting the vacuum tube at the combustion blower assembly and quickly and gently sucking and blowing into it after initiating a calling for heat. The inducer will start up after a few seconds. I will then reconnect the tube and the burners will ignite. All is well, and the furnace will keep working until the house gets to the set temperature and then turn off. When the temp in the house gets cold, I’ll have to help start the furnace again.

    While the furnace is working the black and white wires to the inducer show 120 volts. The red and white wires show 160 volts though.

    I’ve disconnected and reconnected almost all of the wire connections. One time after initiated a call for heat, I wiggled one of the wires near the low pressure switch and the inducer started up. But, I could not repeat it. I’ve tried tapping on the relays, inducer motor, and the pressure valves without any success. I’ve also checked to make sure that the all the ports and tubes are not blocked.

    So, I’m thinking that the relay on the control board is probably the problem. And, I guess that means replacing the control board. Would you agree?

    1. Hi Jerry! I would suggest that you try a new pressure switch first. I looked this up in our Tempstar parts program using model number NTP6075GFB1. and the pressure switch that your furnace uses is part number: 1170924. We do not stock this pressure switch. I did not know this until a couple of years ago, but you should not use your mouth to suck on a pressure switch because it can damage the pressure switch. I used to do the same thing in testing furnaces. So I would recommend trying the pressure switch first and then if this does not fix the problem the control board which is part number: 1014459. I am sorry we do not stock this control board either. If it was me I would probably get both the pressure switch and the control board to have these parts on hand in case the furnace goes out on a cold winter night. I keep extra parts for my furnace, relatives and friends furnaces. I hope you can easily find and fix the problem. Steve

      1. Hi Jerry! I did not see this pressure switch the 1st time through the parts list, but our program shows another pressure switch part number: 1170929. We do not stock this one either. Steve

  28. Installed my Goodman GKS91155DX Nov 2012, This year got the three flashes instead of heat. Checked the venting-clear, checked condensation drainage-good, checked the inducer vacuum switch-working fine. After checking for possible obstruction to switch I laid it inside the compartment, put the power switch on and the heater worked. OK problem fixed, NO, when I move the switch further than 45 degree angle the burners shut down. Maybe the obstruction is now inside blocking the switch from functioning properly, nope, replace switch but same results. Any help, I have no manometer?

    1. Hi John! I am guessing that the switch that you are referring to is the pressure switch. It sounds like you have tried many things that I would have suggested you doing like make sure the condensate drain on the furnace is clean. make sure the hole is open in the draft inducer where the pressure switch attaches. I would suggest that you take the pressure switch hose off and clean the condensate drain and draft inducer drain with a wet vac. Do not suck on the pressure switch tube or leave it attached when using the vac or it will ruin the pressure switch. I would suggest running a small drill bit through the opening in the draft inducer where the pressure switch tubing attaches to make sure the hole is open. Another question would be does the draft inducer sound like it is running full speed. A dragging slow inducer will cause the problem you describe. Please also make sure the draft inducer is attached tightly to the body of the furnace. A loose draft inducer can draw air around the gasket and not pull enough negative pressure to activate the pressure switch. I also know that if it is windy outside and you are getting a down draft from the chimney then this will cause a pressure switch problem. I hope you can easily find and fix the problem.

  29. Hello,

    I have a Goodman furnace. GMH80703ANAC

    My heat isnt working. I have tried every single test in the world. Bought a new pressure switch. Bought a new control board. Bought a new thermostat. I have tested everything in the world that I can and I am stumped. Here is my story.

    My problem started about 3 years ago (unit is only 7 years old). It would start the inducer, then it would wind down and be stuck in that loop. I would turn off thermostat for a few hours and it would reset and work again for a while then back at it. I dealt with that for 2 years. This year it went kinda off the radar on me. I got tired of it doing that cycle so I bought a new pressure switch since this is the stage it would stop on and I was getting the “pressure switch stuck in open position” error code. It was fixed for about 2 weeks. About 2 weeks ago it started not coming on AT ALL. Nothing from the unit. The thermostat would call for heat, unit did NOTHING. I did test with a multimeter… I was getting the fan to come on and getting my normal 122V from the board to the inducer and at the inducer, but again it would just wind up and down. I jumped it (i think it was R and W, cant remember the jump the fan colors of hand) out to make fan run and it would run, but heat would not come on. I put original pressure switch back on and it worked for a day. Now im dead in the water. I did tests and get NOTHING (0v) from the board to the inducer I am getting 27v from the thermostat (R and every color), so i know thermostat works fine. I have power to the unit, the boards red light lights up. I figured it was the board that went bad. I bought a new one…. NOTHING HAS CHANGED. Same symptoms, same readings…. It went from bad to nothing and even with a new board, thermostat, and pressure switch I cannot even get volts to the inducer from the board. I can confirm the board is getting power (122 and 24 at the relay) and the thermostat is getting 27v from R to all colors… What is the problem here? I am freezing my tail off in my house….. lol.

    Thank you.

    1. Hi Mark! Sorry to hear that you are having so much trouble. When the thermostat is calling for heat you should be getting 24 to 28 volts between the W and C (com) terminals. I see that you have a 2 stage control board part number PCBBF109S If you are getting 24 volts AC between W and C when the thermostat is calling for heat and you are not getting 110 volts AC to the control board then this sounds like the control board is at fault. The first thing that should start on the furnace sequence of operation is that the inducer should start. Without the draft inducer going nothing in the sequence of furnace operation will continue. Maybe you received a bad control board. The pressure switch should be open when the furnace is off and close the circuit when the draft inducer comes on. I am sorry, but all I can guess is a bad control board. I hope you can easily find and fix the problem. Steve

  30. Have Coleman home furnace, my problem is gas being emitted from gas valve will not ignite, induction motor runs, igniter glows to max, gas valve opens and emits gas (can hear and smell it), but gas fails to ignite. Have replaced control board, 120/24 VAC control transformer, and gas valve in attempt to solve problem (the original problem was gas valve was not opening). Hope you can help.

    1. Hi Mr. Berry! Sorry to hear that you are having trouble with your Coleman furnace! Since everything seems to be working right except the gas being ignited…I would think that you are not getting enough gas to the burners for the ignitor to light the gas. Sometimes gas valves need to be adjusted up to input more gas. Here is a link to some Youtube videos on how to adjust gas pressure: https://www.google.com/#q=how+to+adjust+a+gas+valve+on+furnace If you do not feel comfortable with doing this then please call a professional. Another thing that I would check before adjusting the pressure would be to make sure the burners and flame runner are clean. The flame runner is a tube or other channel that runs from one burner to every burner that is in line. It runs the gas flame from one burner to the next burner until all are lit. You might want to take the burners out and blow them out with compressed air to make sure they are clean. I hope you can easily find and fix the problem. Steve

    2. Test your igniter. Even if it’s glowing it may not be getting hot enough to ignite the gas properly. More than likely a bad igniter.

  31. Hi. So I’ve been troubleshooting my heater for a week. My draft inducer motor want start without a little push. (Very little). I have gotten a number of ppl telling me it’s the cap. So today I replaced it. It was a $10 part so no big deal. I didn’t have a microfarad tester ($70) to test but I did test ohms. Anyway I said what the heck. Well after replacing, nothing. I still had to give the little motor a push. The motor will run for have a day or more then stop. When I go to check on it I can tell that’s it hot and slight electrical smell from it. The motor is not cheap and I want to be sure it’s bad befor I replace. I don’t get any ground faults when testing the leads and there is no binding or grinding that I can tell. It runs smoothly. So I’m at a loss as why this motor is not moving when heat is called. The unit is only 2 1/2 years old.

    1. Hi Matt! This sure sounds like you are going to need a new draft inducer since you say that replacing the capacitor did not help and the motor is running hot. You might try to oil the bearings or the slip bearing (if equipped) that goes into the draft inducer housing. If your furnace is a condensing furnace that produces water, please make sure the drain on the furnace is open so the fan blade on the inducer is not pushing against a water backup. If it was me I would go ahead and get the draft inducer to have on hand in case yours goes out on a cold winter’s night. I have spares for or family and neighbors just in case. I hope you can easily find and fix this problem. If you want me to try and look up parts then please send me your furnace’s model number. Steve

  32. We have a RUUD Achiever 80 quiet furnace. Initially it was not kicking on so I tried the reset button it would seem to be kicking on then it would shut down 10 seconds later. At the time the thermostat was on heat and up to 72 since it was 68 in the house. Then I tried the circuit breaker turned it off waited a few seconds then turned it back on the furnace turned on again then shut off 10 seconds later well being impatient I believe I did this too much because now my thermostat is off. So I decide to buy a new circuit breaker maybe that’s it…low and behold it’s not it. So I tell my husband to hold in the reset button while I tried to get the thermostat working again with instructions online well the fan on the furnace motor spun but as soon as my husband let go of the button everything shut off. I then look to see if I need new batteries for the thermostat but there are no batteries in it because it is just backup. UGH I don’t know what else to do? Help!

    1. Hi Jennifer! Sorry to hear you are having furnace trouble. I do not understand what you mean when you say the reset button. Is this the power switch on the side of the furnace? I do not know what is cutting off after 10 seconds? The burner flame or the blower motor. If it is the burner flame you might need to clean the flame sensor. We discuss this problem on the following page: https://arnoldservice.com/problem-your-furnace-main-burner-ignites-the-main-burner-stays-on-for-8-to-10-seconds-then-shuts-right-back-off/ We have lots of troubleshooting questions with answers and videos on the following page: https://arnoldservice.com/furnace-troubleshooting-questions-answers-index/ We have a furnace troubleshooting flow chart on the following page: https://arnoldservice.com/furnace-trouble-shooting-flow-chart/ I hope you can easily find and fix the problem. Steve

  33. Hello Steve,
    Recently I had Trane XB furnace and AC system installed in my house. I had the tech install the Furnace first then few months later I had him comeback and install the AC. I ran the furnace for 3 months without any issues. After he installed the AC I didn’t run the Furnace and not sure if we tested the furnace at all. AC ran great.
    Last week when it got cold I tried to run the heater and it would not start. AC still was running great. I called the tech that did the work but he had moved out of state. Also I leave in Los Angeles area and no snow issue.

    Here is the issue.
    The light on a control panel flashes 3 times. The inducer does not start at all, which means nothing else will start.
    Tested/checked following issues

    a) Venting problem – cleaned and checked no issue

    b) Pressure switch problem – just got a new one – didn’t help

    c) Inducer problem – tested with 120v and it ran great.

    I checked all connections and voltage and everything was great except the inducer was not getting 120v. Check the control panel and bam I saw 2 burned out relays.

    Got a new control panel after installing the new control panel (made sure all connection are correct) called for heat. The inducer started working and in about 5 seconds later a spark on a control panel and it stopped.

    Probably need a new control panel.

    Again 3 light flashing. AC works.

    Please help.

    – Can the issue be the Inducer motor caused the control panel issue?

    – Can it be polarity (I tested already)?

    What else can be the problem.
    Thank you Steve.
    I send you an email as well, I figure I put this here in case some else has the same issue.

    1. Sorry to hear you are having these problems with your furnace! I thought the draft inducer was your problem until I see that you ran the draft inducer on 120 volts and it ran fine. It sounds like the draft inducer is shorting out causing the draft inducer relay on the control board to burn out. I would suggest that you try running the draft inducer for 3 to 5 minutes to make sure it runs OK. I would suggest testing the draft inducer with an ohm meter to make sure it is not grounding out. There should be two wires going into the draft inducer. I would suggest testing each wire to ground (the body of the draft inducer motor). You should not see any resistance when you test from each wire one at a time to ground. If you do see resistance then the motor is shorted somewhere. I do not want to see you burn up another control board. If you need me to recommend parts I will need your furnace’s model number. I hope you have a great day and week! Steve

      1. UPDATE – NOT SOLVED YET

        Hello Steve,

        Just an UPDATE. Not solved yet

        • Ran the draft inducer on 120 volts and for 5 minutes and it ran fine.
        • Checked the Amp while it was running – .5 – .8 per wire
        • Tested the draft inducer with an ohm meter to make sure it is not grounding out – NOT GROUNDING OUT

        Trane actually gave me a new draft induces and new control board.

        I will replace them and get back to you.

        Thank you,

        Hovik K

    2. FIXED FIXED

      Hello Steve,

      Replaced the control board, draft inducer.
      Again, tested all connection voltage, amps, resistance. All checked out. Turn it on, buzzzzz and control board burn again, but this time not 3 lights but six flashing.
      The draft inducer starts, then the fan motor starts skipping the ignitor, then the draft inducer stops.

      Aaaa, removed the ignitor to check and it was shorting out there.

      Got a new ignitor and control board, replaced both and checked everything again and finally FIXED.

      SO, ISSUE WAS THE IGNITOR. IT WAS SHORTING OUT AND BURNING THE CONTROL BOARD RELAY.

      Thank you for you help,
      Hope this help someone out there.

      Hovik K

      1. Fantastic! Thank you so very much for sharing how you fixed your furnace. Who would ever think that the ignitor shorting out would burn up the control board! I have never seen this! If this happens now I will know where to look! I hope your information will help others out. You are such a good person for wanting to help and share with others. God bless you. Hope you have a Happy Holiday Season! Steve

  34. I have a problem with my inducer motor not coming on but will come on after I hit the reset on the overload relay. Then the next day I have to do the same thing.

    1. Hi Eric! I really do not know what the overload relay is? If the relay is on the control board then more than likely the relay is arcing, heating up and quits working. You will probably need a new control board to fix the problem. If you want me to look up parts please send me your furnace’s model number. If the furnace is a Bryant or Carrier Furnace I will need the product number. I hope you can find what is causing the problem soon. Steve

  35. Thank you so so much! This was the best written trouble shooting I found. My problem was the thermostat, which looked to be working correctly. Thank you so much.

    1. Great! Glad to hear you found the problem and got it fixed!

  36. Hi. I have a 2004 heil furnace N8MPN100F14A1. I get nothing when turning the fan on the thermostat or turning the heat on. A/C is working fine. The wires going from the control board to the inducer first go to the gas valve. There are 120 volts going into the gas valve but I get no power coming out of the gas valve. Also, the gas valve has a steady blinking light, meaning it is not showing any codes. I’m thinking it is not the board since there is power coming out of there but why isn’t it making it to the inducer motor?

    Any suggestions on this? Thank you!!!

    1. Hi Phil! Since the draft inducer is the first thing that should start when the thermostat calls for heat it is understandable why your furnace is not working. You will probably need to tape the furnace door safety switch closed so you can test on the control board. With the thermostat set for heat and calling for heat (turned up past room temp) I would suggest that you test with a volt meter set to “Volts AC” between the W and C (com) connections on your control board. You should get 24 to 28 volts AC between W and C when the furnace is calling for heat. If not then you have a thermostat problem or a thermostat wire problem. If you are getting 24 to 28 volts between W and C and the draft inducer is not starting then more than likely you have either a control board problem or a draft inducer problem. I would suggest that you turn the power off to the furnace and see if you can spin the draft inducer wheel manually. Some draft inducer get real tight over the summer and need a little spin to loosen up the bearings to get started. Our Heil furnace parts program shows that your furnace uses control fan timer Honeywell ST9120U1011 and draft inducer part number 1014525. We have a furnace troubleshooting flow chart that I hope will help you out on the following page: https://arnoldservice.com/furnace-trouble-shooting-flow-chart/ I hope you can easily find and fix the problem. Steve

    2. Phil, did you find out what your problem is? I have the same problem. 120v to smart value but no power to inducer. to me, this means the control board is okay but maybe an issue with smart value?

  37. Hi, i have bran new pyne furnace, i installed the system in the summer and the ac was working with no problem, i just tried to turn the heat yesterday for the first time, i have 28 volt between w and c, the inducer fan not coming on, i checked the voltage on the wires of the inducer fan, they were no voltage when called for heat, the led status on steady which means normal. Could that be a bad control board even the unit is new. The model number i have is pg8maa036070
    Thanks

    1. Hi Ziad! If you are getting 24 to 28 volts between W and C on the control board from the thermostat, with no voltage going to the draft inducer then sorry to say you probably have a bad control board. The control board should be under warranty and I suggest that you go through the company who installed the furnace to get the warranty. If you would like for me to look up parts then I would need your product number. There are 7 product numbers that I can choose from listed below: Please send your product number to arnoldservice@gmail.com and I will be glad to look up the parts. I hope you get the furnace fixed soon! Steve

      PG8MAA036070AAJA 115-1-60
      PG8MAA036070ABJA 115-1-60
      PG8MAA036070ACJA 115-1-60
      PG8MAA036070ADJA 115-1-60
      PG8MAA036070AEJA 115-1-60
      PG8MAA036070AFJA 115-1-60
      PG8MAA036070AGJA 115-1-60

  38. Hi Steve,
    Do you carry the control board for the a Goodman GMP075-3 REV B ?

    1. There were 29 volts between the W and C and there were 29 volts between W and G wire. The induction fan does not cut on at all. There is no voltage going to the fan when the thermostat heat is turned on. The fuse on the board is not blown and the status light just stays solid read. Never blinks. The squirrel fan will turn on when I switch from auto to on. But zilch on the heat.

      1. Hi Tim!
        There should be 24 volts between W and C when the thermostat is calling for heat. Sounds like you either have a bad control board or draft inducer. I would check and see if you are getting 110 volts to the draft inducer when the thermostat is calling for heat. If you are and the draft inducer is not running then you have a bad draft inducer. If you are not getting 110 to the draft inducer then you have a bad control board. Your furnace uses draft inducer part number B1859005S like we sell on the following page:https://arnoldserv.wpengine.com/product/goodman-furnace-draft-inducer-fasco-a157/ We have a troubleshooting flow chart that I hope will help you out on the following page: https://arnoldserv.wpengine.com/furnace-trouble-shooting-flow-chart/ Best of luck in finding the problem.

    2. Correction. So sorry for the confusion. I am showing 31 volts between R and G (I assume G to be the same as C). There is 0 between W and G with the heat in the on position. I did not turn the thermostat back off and on again so it had been in the on position for a while. Should I turn the thermostat off and then back to heat to take a reading between the W and G terminal?

      1. Hi Tim! The green wire should only be energized when the fan in turned on at the thermostat or when the air conditioner is running. You should not get voltage through the green wire with the thermostat set to heat and fan in the auto position. Steve

    3. Hi Mr. Durham! Our Goodman parts program shows that your furnace uses the B1809913S control board that we sell on the following page: https://arnoldserv.wpengine.com/product/goodman-furnace-control-board-b1809913s/ We have the board in stock. Steve

  39. I have a Bryant 90+ HE Gas Furnace and the Inducer Motor doesn’t appear to even try to come on. I’m getting no gas and thus no ignition. I have had on going problems for the last few winters. In 2003 or 4, the board was replaced. In 2013 i think, the fuse on the board had to be replaced. Last couple of years, the blower would start up but I’d get no burn. I’d opened up the burn compartment and vacuum out some small debris.
    Then it would fire up and never another problem.
    This year’s winter started off with it working without intervention until today. The blower comes on but no burn and the inducer doesn’t kick on. I’m getting the 31 code, I’ve checked and done the things I have in the past to no avail. So I’ve dug deeper. The condensor trap was clogged, I removed and blew it out. I checked to see if water would pass through it normally before putting it back on. I checked the exhaust from the inducer and nothing is plugging it. I can’t quite get the pipe off of the intake so I haven’t forced it yet. I sanded the sensor in the burn compartment. I took the hose from pressure switch to the intake off and blew into the pressure switch. I can see the membrane move and disengage to switch. All of that only for me to realize that the inducer doesn’t actually ever kick on.
    What could the issue be? Thank you for your time.

    1. Hi Josh! Since the draft inducer will not come on this would indicate either a draft inducer motor problem or a furnace control board problem. The draft inducer is the first part of the furnace that comes on when the thermostat calls for heat. This sounds like it could be a weak draft inducer relay on the control board or a bad draft inducer motor. I would suggest that you follow the troubleshooting flow chart that we have on the following page: https://arnoldserv.wpengine.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/12/furnacetroubleshootingflowchart1.jpg You can check to see if the draft inducer is getting 110 volts AC or not when the thermostat calls for heat. If the inducer is getting 110 volts AC and not running then you need a new draft inducer motor. If it isn’t getting 110 volts then you have a control board problem or a wiring problem (maybe burnt or loose wires). If you want me to look up parts please send me your furnace’s product number and I will be glad to look up parts for you. I hope you can easily find and fix the problem. Steve

  40. Hello Steve,

    We have a Goodman furnace, and the inducer making a loud noise. However i have noticed yesterday that the fuse was blown, and after changing the fuse the inducer did not come on, i had to roll (help a bit) to make it start. Now today morning same issue.
    Question could the inducer cause the fuse to blow?

    1. Hi Ersan! If the fuse on the control board is blowing… most of the time this is caused by a low voltage problem. If the relay on the control board that controls the draft inducer is not getting enough voltage (24 volts) or if the contacts inside the draft inducer relay are bad (pitted) then this can cause arcing, relay chatter and cause the fuse to blow. If the 110 volt fuse on your home breaker box is blowing then, yes a shorted out draft inducer motor can cause this 110 volt breaker to blow. I would recommend checking the low voltage on your control board between W and C (com) when the furnace is calling for heat. You should be getting 24 to 28 volts AC between these two terminals. If you aren’t getting 24 volts (below 24 volts) then you might have a weak transformer, a loose wire or loose ground wire. Next, I would suggest checking the voltage going to the draft inducer to see if you are getting a constant 110 volts AC. Be careful and do not ground out on anything because this can ruin the control board or your meter leads. If the draft inducer is getting 110 to 125 volts AC and not running then you would need a new draft inducer. Please send me your furnace model number if you would like for me to look up parts. I hope you can easily find and fix the problem. Steve

    2. I have a Goodman MMH81405DNAC furnace. A couple of times this winter, when the thermostat calls for heat, the draft inducer blower starts, runs for a second or two, then shuts down. This happens over and over again. Eventually the draft inducer blower stays on and the flame starts and the system runs fine. This only seems to happen sporadically. The system has been running fine for a couple of weeks. I’m thinking its maybe a relay on the control board. I would appreciate your feedback.

      1. Hi Allen! Yes, this sounds like it could be a weak draft inducer relay on the control board. I would suggest that you follow the troubleshooting flow chart that we have on the following page: https://arnoldserv.wpengine.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/12/furnacetroubleshootingflowchart1.jpg and make sure your are getting a constant 24 to 28 volts AC between the W and C (com) terminals on your control board. This would ensure that the thermostat is not cutting off power to the control board and causing the draft inducer to go off and on. I would also suggest testing the pressure switch and limit switches to make sure they are staying closed. I tried the model number that your provided in our Goodman parts program to look up parts, but our program does not find any Goodman models that start with “MMH” Please recheck your model number if you want me to look up the part number for the control board. I hope you have a blessed 2016. Steve

  41. Steve,

    I have a Goodman GDS80904BNA. It tries to start : draft inducer motor comes on, igniter glows for several seconds, then a relay clicks and it shuts off. It does this cycle 2 or 3 times, then goes into lockout. 1 blink only. Not showing any other codes. In the past it would stop about once a year with a 3-blink code and I’d vclean the port on the draft inducer motor that the pressure tube attaches to. I did that this time, but it’s still out. In any case, it’s showing no diagnostic codes.

    Any help would be really appreciated.

    Thanks,
    Steve

    1. Hi Steve! I would suggest that you try to test with a meter and see what is cutting the furnace off before the blower kicks in. This could be the thermostat cutting the power off to the control board, could be a bad gas valve not opening to provide gas to the furnace, or it could be a limit or rollout switch cutting the furnace off. Please make sure that the batteries in your thermostat are good if your thermostat has batteries. We have a furnace troubleshooting flow chart on the following page that I hope will help you out: https://arnoldserv.wpengine.com/furnace-trouble-shooting-flow-chart/ I would suggest testing the gas valve with a volt meter to see if it is getting 24 to 28 volts AC when the gas valve is supposed to be opening. If the gas valve isn’t getting 24 volts then it is probably the control board. If the gas valve is getting 24 volts when it is supposed to be opening then you probably have a bad gas valve. I copied a parts list for your furnace below. We sell the control board for your furnace on the following page: https://arnoldserv.wpengine.com/product/goodman-amana-furnace-control-board-pcbbf112s/ We sell the gas valve on the following page: https://arnoldserv.wpengine.com/product/goodman-furnace-gas-valve-0151m00013/ I hope you can easily find and fix the problem soon! Steve
      Model#: GDS80904BN Mfg#: GDS80904BNAA

      Part Number Description Type Substitution
      A3468601 PRESSURE SWITCH HOSE
      B1141605 TRANSFORMER 120V TO 24V, 40 VA 0130M00140
      B1282628 GAS VALVE (36G) F B1282628S
      B1340024S MOTOR 1/2 HP, 4 SP, 6 PL F 0131F00022
      B1368016S BLOWER WHEEL 10 X 8
      B1370145 ROLLOUT SWITCH, 300 W/O BRACKET F
      B1370155 AUXILIARY LIMIT SWITCH 120ºF F
      B1370179 PRESSURE SWITCH F
      B1370195 SWITCH, PRIMARY LIMIT, 300°F F
      B1370819 DOOR SWITCH F
      B1392104 UNIVERSAL BUSHING UB 875
      B13926112 SEAL STRIP, 1/8 X 1/2 X 17.5
      B1392634 VENT MOTOR GASKET 17.5″
      B1393331 MACHINE SCREW, 1/4-20 TYPE F SLOTTED
      B4022700 INSHOT BURNER ASSY 3″ F
      B4026007 GAS MANIFOLD 4 CELL
      B4068406 2-PIN IGNITOR WIRE HARNESS ASSY
      CAP200000370RPS CAPACITOR 20/370V F CAP200000440RPS
      HI-115A USERS MANUAL S
      IO-242D INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS S
      PCBBF112S IGNITION BOARD, HSI INTEGRATED F
      0130F00010 FLAME SENSOR F
      0131M00002S VENT MOTOR F 0131M00002PS
      0161F00000P GOODMAN NAMEPLATE S
      0221F00001PDG TOP 17.5″
      0221F00009PDG ACCESS DOOR 17.5″
      0259F00007P 12-PIN WIRE HARNESS ASSY
      0259F00008P 15-PIN WIRE HARNESS ASSY-MALE
      0259F00009P 15-PIN WIRE HARNESS ASSY-FEMALE
      10716003 ORIFICE F 0163F00018
      1284835 CAPACITOR STRAP
      20165703S IGNITOR F
      2509505 BRACKET, DOOR SWITCH OBSOLETE
      2513502 BURNER RACK 4 CELL OBSOLETE
      2514000 SIDE PLATE, BURNER BOX 0121F00146
      2515009 INNER BLOWER DOOR 17.5″ OBSOLETE
      2539306S BLOWER SHELL ASSY 10 X 8
      4010015S FLUE COLLECTOR BOX 17.5″, 2.000 MOD A
      4013012 BURNER BOX TOP 4 CELL
      4014502 J-BOX
      4015502 J-BOX COVER
      4021309S SUB-ASSY, HEAT EXCHANGER 4 CELL, 17.5″
      4026538S INSULATED ASSY, WRAPPER 17.5″
      4028002 ORIFICE SHIELD 4 CELL
      4053501S CHIMNEY ASSEMBLY
      764740F BLOWER BLOCK-OFF 10 X 8

  42. Hello – Any advice here would be greatly appreciated:
    American Standard Freedom 90 two-stage furnace, 15 years old
    Problem is “External Lockout (retries or recycles exceeded)” error — 2 blinking red lights.
    I can consistently get it to light and blow heat for hours, but at some point it stops and then exceeds retries trying to restart.
    I get it going by turning power off to the unit for a few seconds (takes it from 2 flashing lights to normal steady blinking), then resetting the thermostat, then turning temp down below actual temp, then switching from “off” to “heat” on thermostat, then going off to on to off to on within 30 seconds.
    When I do this, it almost always starts on the 1st, 2nd or 3rd attempt and will reach and stay at the temp I have set…for a period of time. Stayed on the entire night the other day. Only did that one time.
    I have cleaned the flame sensor, cleaned/checked the ignitor, cleaned the filter, checked for any blocks in the PVC pipe going to the outside and the registers in the house.
    When there is a failed attempt to light, there is a flame and ignition, but just for a few seconds.
    Circuit board was replaced by technician several years back (I think).
    Thermostat is original (15 years) – RobertShaw 9610
    Anything else I can try on my own before making service call. I have had very spotty luck with service people in general over the years, hence all the troubleshooting on my own.

    1. Hi Joe! This sounds like a flame sensing problem. I would suggest checking all your wire connections and ground wire to the furnace to make sure they are good and tight. If you still have problems I would suggest making sure you have a good blue flame that encompasses the flame sensor where the flame sensor sits. If you do not have a good blue flame I would suggest turning off the furnace and cleaning the burners out with compressed air. If this does not fix the problem then I would suggest a new flame sensor the most common flame sensor for American Standard furnaces is the SEN00014 that we sell on the following page: https://arnoldserv.wpengine.com/product/american-standard-trane-furnace-flame-sensor-sen01114/ If the new flame sensor does not fix the problem then I would try an new control board. If you want me to look up parts please send me your furnace model number. We also discuss this problem on the following page: https://arnoldserv.wpengine.com/problem-your-furnace-main-burner-ignites-the-main-burner-stays-on-for-8-to-10-seconds-then-shuts-right-back-off/ I hope you get the problem fixed soon! Steve

    2. Thanks very much Steve for the response.
      I checked all the wires and everything looks good, clean & tight from what I can tell. I also checked the flames and they all look great as well. However, I can’t see behind the shield to see if the flame sensor is encompassed by the flame, but I did clean the sensor a few weeks back and it looks very good as well.
      Yesterday morning, I got the unit going in the usual thermostat reset manner and set the temp at 65. It maintained this temp for 24 hours until this morning when I manually adjusted down to 60 to see what would happen when the temp dropped below 60. 3 unsuccessful tries and cold air blowing.
      Is there a possibility that this could be tied to a faulty thermostat, or is that unlikely?
      I’m just trying to rule out possibilities before having to focus on the control board. Thanks again.

      1. Hi Joe! Unlikely it is the thermostat, most of the time it is a flame sensor problem, loose wire problem or a control board problem. I would make sure the thermostat has new batteries if it is equipped with batteries. This sounds like a flame sensing problem because it happens after the furnace cools down. I have seen this happen many times. Furnaces lock out after trying to start after cooling down. This could also be a pressure switch problem if the pressure switch is not closing after the furnace is off for a while. Most of the time if you have a pressure switch problem the furnace ignitor will not glow at all until the pressure switch closes. So if your ignitor is glowing then the pressure switch probably is not at fault. Best of luck in fixing the problem. Steve

  43. Hi Steve, I have Carrier 58STA/STX furnace. Turn on heat, the draft inducer doesn’t work, no ignition no gas burn. The blower does come one, just blow cool air without heat. The status LED light stays on without flash. If I shut the power off and turn it back on, the draft inducer runs slowly for a while, blower also runs for a while. Then everything stops . I have 2 thermostats, connect to Honeywell mine-zone control panel. call heat from zone1 will turn blower one. call heat from zone2 nothing happens.

    1. Hi Frank! Sorry to hear you are having trouble with your furnace! If the draft inducer is not starting I would first recommend testing terminals W & C on the control board with a volt meter set to volts AC with the thermostat calling for heat. You might have to tape the furnace blower door safety switch down so you can do the measurement with the volt meter. You should be getting 24 to 28 volts AC between the two terminals. If you aren’t getting the voltage then you either have a thermostat or thermostat wire problem. If you are getting 24 volts between W & C and the draft inducer is not starting then you either have a control board problem or a draft inducer motor problem. You would need to test the high voltage terminals that go to the draft inducer. Be careful not to ground out. If you are getting 110 to 125 volts out of the control board and the draft inducer is not working then you have a bad draft inducer motor. If the control board is not sending 110 volts to the draft inducer then you either have a bad control board or a loose wire on the control board. We have a troubleshooting flow chart on the following page that should help you out: https://arnoldserv.wpengine.com/furnace-trouble-shooting-flow-chart/ I will need the furnace product number if you would like for me to look up parts. There are lots of Carrier 58STA/STX furnace models. Best of luck in finding and fixing the problem. Steve

  44. Hi, I have a Ameristar Furnace model number CUB1C100A9601AA serial number 6231SER1G and it is roughly 10 years old. My furnace will cycle on and off when calling for heat. It does this for awhile then just blows cold air. The Igniter will glow orange and you can hear a switch click calling for gas then the igniter will just dim away slowly. There is a square white plug and a rectangle white plug on the circuit board that when I squeeze them in or push them one way, everything will function normal and the burners will fire up giving heat to the house. But after a day or two or maybe a few hours later, it repeat the same issue again. If I push or squeeze those two plugs one way or another again, it’ll function normal again. Is it possible that I have a bad circuit board? Maybe some of the solders on the circuit board are loose? The wires seem to be in good shape and are not chew up. Please help me out. Thank you.

    1. Hi Tou! This sounds like you might have a flame sensor problem. Have you cleaned the flame sensor with steel wool? I looked it up in our parts program and your furnace uses the SEN01114 flame sensor that we sell on the following page: https://arnoldserv.wpengine.com/product/american-standard-trane-furnace-flame-sensor-sen01114/ Since you say the furnace work OK after you wiggle the plug, then yes you might need a new control board or plug. The control board your furnace uses is the CNT03797 that we sell on the following page: https://arnoldserv.wpengine.com/product/american-standard-trane-furnace-control-board-cnt03797/ I am sorry, we do not sell or stock the plug. We have the parts in stock if you would like to order. I hope you can solve the problem by cleaning the flame sensor. Steve

  45. Steve, My Carrier 58MVB080 furnace recently started getting overheated. Top side gets really hot. FRS switch shots it down after Error 13 pretty often. My technician changed FTS and a limit switch and installed a new inducer. It runs now in HIGH stage even still hot, shuts down and gives Error 13 if set in LOW or SYSTEM stage mode. I called up a second technician. He cleaned furnace up from dust where was able to access. Said that air flow is low at the top of the AC coils (top of the furnace) and over exhaust pipe, checked the amp current to a new inducer and said that it’s low. Can it be a problem with a control board? Any way to troubleshoot? I appreciate your advice.

    1. Hi Michael! If the furnace is going off on limit the problem most of the time is the following: This sounds like the furnace might be overheating (going off on limit) and shutting down. This overheating could be caused by a dirty filter, dirty blower wheel, slow blower motor (could be a weak capacitor) gas pressure set to high on the gas valve, improper setting on the thermostat anticipator (if equipped), over-sized furnace (too big for your home or duct work) or a stopped up evaporator coil. Please make sure the evaporator coil is not stopped up with lint. Most of the time the control board is not the problem if the draft inducer is running slow. Please make sure the vent is not stopped up or has a hornet’s nest inside the vent. You would probably want a low amp draw to the vent motor. If you would like for me to look up parts please send me your furnace’ product number. There are lots of 58MVB080 models. Steve

  46. Hello !! Working on my Nordye/Miller furnace. Had my vacuum switch go out and it would not operate unless i tapped it. So I put a new switch on and it seems that the inducer motor will not produce enough vacuum to operate the switch. What my question is… The inducer motor is blowing into the chamber, not out. I was the one that put the current inducer motor in the furnace. Did I reverse the two wires ? The unit I installed had to have the plug attached by me. Since they were both black, I assumed it didnt matter how they went together. I have ordered another inducer motor as I thought perhaps the current one was not strong enough to with the new switch. However, I believe my inducer motor is running in reverse. Can you confirm ? Thanks.

    1. Hi Howie! Sorry it took we so long to answer we were real busy today with the cold weather setting in. The wires on the inducer should be one hot and one common. Most of the time it does not matter how you hook it up unless the wires are colored white and black. I would think that the problem is in the draft inducer motor if it is running backwards. Sounds like you need a new inducer motor. Steve

      1. Thanks for your response. I just installed the new inducer motor just in case the old one was spinning enough to trip the switch. It will operate as it should with the old switch, meaning once the inducer motor is running it will ignite and run the furnace as it should. The old switch is hanging closed (3 flash code) and has to be tapped to reset it after the run. That’s why the new pressure switch. However the new switch will not open when the inducer motor comes on. Goes to a “switch open” 2 flash fault. I have another switch on the way. Is there anything else I should look at ? I have read some issues of clogged flue or other obstructions but I don’t know where to look. Thanks

      2. Hi John! It sounds like you are on the right track with the pressure switch being the problem. We have real good troubleshooting page on pressure switches on the following page: https://arnoldserv.wpengine.com/how-to-test-and-troubleshoot-gas-furnace-pressure-switches/ This page should cover just about all questions on troubleshooting pressure switch problems. I hope you have a great day! Steve

  47. Hi Steve. Great troubleshooting forum by the way. I have about a 2-3 year old Tappan LP gas furnace (Model L1RC 080D -16B) that starts the blower fan first and continues to run but the inducer motor would not start. No code light on the control board (Nordyne 624631-B). No blow fuses on board. No burnt components on board. Have power from thermostat. Power to the board. No power from board to inducer. Hardwired inducer to 110v, runs normal. Furnace still not lighting. Replaced board with ICM2805A. Same symptoms. No power from board. No code blinks. Any ideas on next step to troubleshoot? Thanks in advance.

    1. Hi Bill! Most of the time when the draft inducer will not start it is a control board problem or a wiring problem. If you are getting 110 volts into the control board from L1 and neutral and getting 24 to 28 volts AC between the W and C (com) terminals on your control board from the thermostat when the furnace is calling for heat, and the draft inducer is not getting 110 volts out to the inducer from the control board then it almost has to be a control board problem. We have a troubleshooting page with a troubleshooting flow chart with many questions on the following page: https://arnoldserv.wpengine.com/furnace-troubleshooting-questions-answers-index/ Here is a link to the troubleshooting flow chart: https://arnoldserv.wpengine.com/furnace-trouble-shooting-flow-chart/ I hope you can easily find and fix the problem. Steve

    2. I’m sorry to be a pest but you’re my only hope, Obiwan. I put a new inducer and a new pressure switch. Now the furnace cycles and lights BUT the regulator is clicking on off. A second or two apart. Is it the pressure switch riding on the open / closed edge ? Opening and closing or is there a regulator problem ? This is what it was doing and the original reason I changed the pressure switch in the first place. Thanks !!

      1. Hi John! I do not know what you mean by the “Regulator kicking on and off”. Is the gas valve kicking on and off? You should be able to tell if the pressure switch is the problem by testing with a volt meter. If the pressure switch opens your voltage would drop out and your gas would go off. We have a pressure switch trouble shooting page that I hope will help: https://arnoldserv.wpengine.com/how-to-test-and-troubleshoot-gas-furnace-pressure-switches/ A loose wire connection a poor furnace ground, a faulty thermostat (please make sure batteries if equipped are in good shape) or a control board where the gas valve relay is going bad can all cause the gas valve to go off and on. I hope you can easily find and fix the problem. Steve

  48. Hi, my furnace just didn’t work last week. it haves 3 lights, red power, yellow flame light, and green light that is supposed to stay steady on. It was flashing, I looked at the wiring diagram and it said, reversed polarity, or open pressure switch, and something else I forgot what it was. I figured it wasn’t pressure switch because inducer didn’t even come on, so I spun the inducer then it came on foe a week. this happen again so I went down and seen it threw the same codes. The inducer looks fine spins free its a brand new furnace. I tapped the relay on the board several times, and with each tap the motor would spin a little. Now it is working but its gonna do it again I assume. My question is how can a relay work then not work, how much is a board? This is not my furnace its my landlords and I only pay 350 for rent just trying to save him money and put it on myself.

    1. Hi Shane! This sounds like a relay on the control board is bad or going bad. It was great that you were able to pinpoint the problem by tapping on the relay! Congratulations! The contact points inside the relay can become pitted, bad and make the inducer work erratically. Sometime where the relay is soldered into the control board it can become loose or the solder can melt away because of arcing around the relay. It sounds like you will need a new control board. I would be glad to try and look up the control board part number for you if you can send me your furnace’s model number. If you have a Bryant or Carrier furnace I will need the product number. I hope the furnace will continue to work, but I believe it is only a matter of time and you will start having problems again. Steve

  49. Hi. This is really helpful. Does the inducer stay on the whole time the fire is burning? Mine had trouble getting spinning, but I helped it with a push and it went, then it got the flame lit, but after a minute or so, but the flame and the inducer shut off. The inducer is noisy so I suspect it it faulty. Thank you.

    1. Hi Mr. Monroe! Yes sir, the draft inducer should stay on the whole time the burners are burning. Actually the draft inducer should come on before (10 to 30 seconds) the burners light and 10 to 30 seconds after the burners go off. If you want me to look up the draft inducer part number for your furnace please send me your furnace model number and I will try to find a part number for you. Steve

  50. Hi Steve, I have a Payne furnace and the first problem is that I can’t find the model number. It is installed sideways in the attic and is part of a system that includes central air.

    When I try to start it, I’m getting code 31 from the flashing led which seems to imply a problem with the inducer motor, start capacitor, or control board.

    When I open it and test it by shorting the test pin to common, the inducer motor fails to start, but the electronic starter element glows orange and the blower works.

    When I measured the voltage going to the inducer motor, it appeared to be zero, so I’m guessing a bad control board. What do you think and how can I identify my furnace serial number? Thanks in advance.

    1. Hi Darrell!
      If you are getting 24 to 28 volts between W and C (Com) terminals on the control board from the thermostat and the draft inducer is not starting then more than likely you have a control board problem or a draft inducer problem. Please check and make sure the draft inducer spins freely. Also check with a volt meter to see if you are getting 110 to 125 volts AC to the draft inducer motor when it is supposed to be running. Most all Bryant and Carrier furnaces have the label with the furnace model number and product number stuck inside the furnace near the burners. You should be able to take the front panel off the furnace and see the product number. I will need the furnace product number in order to look up parts. Please send me your furnace’s product number and I will be glad to look up the control board and draft inducer part numbers for your furnace. I hope you can easily find the problem. Steve

      1. Hi Steve, Thanks for getting back to me so quickly. Here is the product number: GB3AAV0610115ADTA. The serial number is 2495A14731.

        I measured the voltage between Com and W, Y, R, G, and HUM. All of the voltages were zero (V = 0) except for R which was 26.5V. Now, what do you think?

        — Darrell

      2. Hi Darrell!
        With the furnace thermostat not calling for heat then the voltages that you measured are correct. If the furnace was calling for heat and you measured zero volts between W and C Com then either you have a thermostat problem or a thermostat broken wire problem. With the thermostat calling for heat you should have 24 to 28 volts between the W and C com terminals. Our parts program did not show any furnaces with the product number you provided. I used the closest product number I could find which was: GB3AAV060115ADJA. This furnace shows a 325878-751 circuit board conversion kit for the control board and a 318984-753 draft inducer motor kit. This inducer kit uses the LA11AA005 blower wheel. We sell the control board on the following page: https://arnoldserv.wpengine.com/product/bryant-carrier-furnace-control-board-conversion-kit-325878-751/ and the draft inducer motor kit on the following page: https://arnoldserv.wpengine.com/product/bryant-carrier-draft-inducer-motor-kit-318984-753/ Here is a screen shot picture from our Bryant Carrier parts program which shows the parts for the draft inducer parts section: screencast .com/t/dQDqeMuM I hope you can easily find the problem. Steve

      3. Hi Steve, Sorry to keep bothering you. Hope you enjoyed the wedding. I’m back from vacation and still trying to determine whether I have a bad control board or a bad inducer motor. I performed some more tests. Originally, I forgot to turn the heat on. With the heat on, I’m getting 26.2 V between COM and W. With the heat off, it’s zero. I’m getting 26 V across the capacitor. I’m not measuring anything across the inducer motor, however the motor does spin freely. Is it possible I have a loose wire? Also, just to remind you, I’m getting code 31 which apparently translates to either a problem with the inducer motor or the capacitor (or a bunch of other things that probably don’t apply). When I perform a test by shorting the test pin to COM, the inducer motor fails to start. Fortunately, I live in Southern California. Unfortunately, it was only 50 degrees in the house last night so I’d still like my furnace to work. Thanks.

      4. Hi Darrell! Since you are getting 26.2 volts between the W and C (com) terminals on the control board when calling for heat this is normal. The part that is not right is in the fact that the draft inducer is not starting. When a draft inducer does start this can usually be caused by a loose or burnt wire problem, a control board problem or a bad draft inducer motor problem. The draft inducer should be running the entire time your thermostat is calling for heat. I would suggest testing the terminals that go to the draft inducer off the control board. There should be two wires that go to the draft inducer motor. One hot wire and one neutral wire. Try to test these two wires with the thermostat calling for heat. Be careful not to get shocked or grounded out when working with live electricity. If you aren’t getting 110 to 125 volts AC out of the control board then you either have a control board problem or no high voltage coming into the control board problem. If you want to test the high voltage coming into the control board then I would suggest testing between L1 to Neutral on the control board. You should be getting 110 to 125 volts AC power coming into the control board. If you are getting 110 between L1 and neutral and nothing coming out to power the draft inducer then you would need a new control board. If the inducer is getting power and not running then you would need a new draft inducer. If you want me to look up parts please send me your furnace’s model number and serial number and I will be glad to give you the part numbers. It would be best to contact me through our support email address: support@arnoldservice.com I hope you get the problem found and fixed soon! Steve

  51. Hi Steve, I have a 4 zone heating system and the draft inducer seems to work on all but one of the zones. On the problematic zone the draft inducer starts for a second and then cuts out. I assume that draft inducer itself is ok since it works on 3 of the 4 zones. Wondering if each zone is handled separately by the control board and mine must be replaced.

    1. Hi! Thank you so much for your interest in our website. I am sorry, but I do not know much about zone heating. I have had very little experience over the years. Since the draft inducer works on 3 of the zones and not on one it sounds like something might be wrong with the zone controller or thermostat. Most furnaces that I installed do not have a zone control on the furnace control board. Maybe the thermostat on the zone or the zone control might be the problem. I would suggest turning the three thermostats down so the heat does not come for the three that are working, then turn up the zone thermostat where the zone is not working and check the circuit with a volt meter to see if you are getting a constant 24 to 28 volts between the W and C terminals from the zone that is not working properly. Maybe it is a bad thermostat or a loose wire. I hope it is easy to find the problem. Best of luck!
      Steve

      1. Thanks for the quick reply. I do not have a volt meter. Will have to call for service tomorrow and in the mean time run the zone manually every few hours overnight to make sure the pipe does not freeze. I think the zone value and thermostat are ok because although the inducer shuts down after a few spins the zone is open and any hot water in the tank does circulate through the base boards in that zone, although very slowly unless I turn on one of the zones that are working properly. So perhaps the circulator is not coming on when only problematic zone is open. Anyway, I’ll let you know what the plumber discovers for future reference.

      2. Thanks! Yes, please let us know what the plumbers finds the trouble is. Hope you have a nice weekend! Steve

      3. The problem was a bad zone. When the thermostat called for heat the zone valve would open, the circulator would start but the draft inducer would spin a few times then shut down. Replacing the zone valve solved the problem.

      4. Awesome! Glad to know that you found and fixed the problem! Thanks so much for sharing this information with everyone! Hope you have a blessed day! Steve

  52. I believe the draft inducer motor is stuck on my American standard dual air conditioning/heating unit. Which panel do I need to remove to access the motor? Is it the panel where the gas supply enters? Thanks.

    1. Hi Frank! I am not familiar with the unit you have. Please send me your American Standard model number and I use our parts program to see where the draft inducer is located. It would be best to email me your model number at our support@arnoldservice.com email address. I hope you have a nice day
      Steve Arnold, https://arnoldserv.wpengine.com

  53. Why does my inducer motor stays on with the thermostat is off and will not ignite

    1. Hi Anthony! More than likely there is a stuck draft inducer relay on your control board. I would like to suggest that you turn the power off to your furnace. Unplug the wire that goes to the draft inducer from the control board and lightly tap on the relay with your finger to try and dislodge the stuck relay. If this does not fix the problem then you will need a new control board. Please send me your furnace’s model number and I will be glad to try and look it up and see which control board your furnace uses. Best of luck in fixing the problem. Steve

    2. Hello Steve!
      I have been working on my Goodman 100-4 furnace most of the evening. I am at a loss. I get a 3 lights blinking error code (Vacuum pump stuck closed) and that being the only thing that happens after all call for heat has been made. I have read and tried all the conventional things
      -checked for blocks, -blew in straw into hose to hear for the pump contacts working, and even tried to by-pass the pump to see if I could get the induction unit to at least begin. Following your advice to another below:
      (You can manually hold the two wires together on the pressure switch when the draft inducer starts and see if the pressure switch is the problem and then separate the wires when the draft inducer stops. This should tell you if it is actually a pressure switch problem.)
      After trying all these, I still cannot get past the unit to even get the induction motor to begin…and the board still flashes 3 blinks.

      If I cannot get a bypass of the pressure switch to help confirm that it is truly the problem.. am I left to have to assume the problem is somewhere else.

      I have read that these pressure switches usually are not the problem..and honestly I can’t see where mine is… but still 3 blinking lights and NOTHING more.

      Your help would be greatly appreciated!
      Rob

      1. Hi Rob! If the draft inducer will not start then more than likely you have a control board problem. More than likely the draft inducer relay on the control board will not work so the draft inducer does not start. You will continue to have the pressure switch stuck closed flashes until you get the draft inducer started. I would check to make sure that you are getting 24 volts between the W and C (com) thermostat wires coming from the thermostat to make sure the thermostat is telling the furnace to start. If your furnace is a model number GMP100-4, It would use the B1809913S control board that we sell on the following page: https://arnoldserv.wpengine.com/product/goodman-furnace-control-board-b1809913s/ Before you order the control board I would recommend that you make sure that the draft inducer is not getting 110 volts from the board to the draft inducer. If you are getting 110 to 125 volts AC to the draft inducer and the draft inducer is not running then you might have a bad draft inducer or a stuck draft inducer. If the draft inducer is stuck many times I have been able to unstick them by turning the power off to the furnace then use a screw driver through the back to rotate and get the draft inducer wheel moving. Sometimes after a draft inducer has set all summer long without running they will stick and just need a little help to get going. I hope you can easily find and fix the problem. I hope you have a blessed day. Steve Arnold, https://arnoldserv.wpengine.com

  54. Hello Steve, I was wondering if you could help me out?
    I have a Ruud RGPM-10EAMER Gas heater.
    I bypassed the door switch to take that out of the equasion
    My pressure switch is OK but it is bypassed
    My thermostat is OK but I have it bypassed
    I turn on the wall power switch and I hear a click as if it is attempting to start the inducer , I see the inducer attempt to spin for like a millisecond then stop so what I do to eventually get it going is take one of the wires off of the thermostat contact and continuously make contact on/off/on /off , sometimes after doing this 15 or 20 times the inducer will start ,
    ignitor will start and burners will come on , then blower motor will turn on and it will run until I get enough heat in the house so I don’t crack my pipes however once I do shut it, I must repeat the process of touching the wire to the Thermostat contact on the board ,
    I have narrowed it down to a bad relay on the Board as I am able to get it to run if I click it enough times however there are certain times I notice the inducer certain times when it is running , the inducer speed will drop sometimes for a quick second . sometimes it will shut off , what are the chances it is not a relay on the board and it is the transformer about to fail ?
    Or do transformers either work or they don’t
    Thank you any help you might throw my way .

    1. Hi Anthony!
      This does sound like a control board problem. Yes, this sounds like the relay which starts the draft inducer is sticking. Sometimes it works and sometimes it doesn’t work. I would like to suggest that you test with a volt meter set to volts AC, between the R and C (com) terminals to make sure you are getting a constant low voltage reading of 24 to 28 volts out of the transformer. If the voltage is lower than 24 volts then you would need to replace the low voltage transformer or find out if there is a short in the low voltage wires. If you are getting a constant 24 volts or more from the R and C terminals then I would suggest you get a new control board. I tried looking up the control for your furnace and found there are not any furnaces that start with “RGPM”. Please recheck your furnace model number. I will also need the serial number in order to look up the control board. I hope you can easily find the problem. Thanks so much for the opportunity to do business with you! Steve Arnold, https://arnoldserv.wpengine.com

  55. Hi
    We just purchased a trailer and it has a Miller gas furnace in it that is about 5 years old. The technician that came out to hook it up says that the induction motor is bad. Could you tell me where the induction motor is and how I can trouble shoot to ser if itmay be something else.

    1. Hi! I would think that your tech is referring to the draft inducer motor. The inducer motor is located in the front of the furnace and attached to the heat exchanger and furnace flue pipe. The draft inducer pulls the hot gas out of the heat exchanger and sends the hot gas up the flue pipe. You can test the draft inducer with a volt meter at the draft inducer plug. The draft inducer is the first thing that comes on when your furnace thermostat calls for heat. You should be getting 110 volts at the plug when the furnace is calling for heat. If you are getting 110 volts at the plug and the draft inducer is not running then you would need a new draft inducer. The following page and YouTube video should help you with troubleshooting the furnace: https://arnoldserv.wpengine.com/problem-sequence-operation-80-gas-furnace-2/ Best of luck in finding and fixing the problem. Hope you have a great day!
      Steve Arnold, https://arnoldserv.wpengine.com

  56. Sorry, mine is an American Standard freedom 90 single stage furnace

    1. If you need me to look up parts please send me your furnace’s model number which should be located inside your furnace near the burners. Thanks! Steve

  57. Goodman furnace..
    induction motor will not come on..
    Code states pressure switch stuck open.. 3 blinks..
    Bypassed board to run induction motor, and motor runs, then code switches to pressure switch stuck closed.. 2 blinks..

    Board by itself does not turn on induction fan but i hear clicking at the board. No fuses are blown..

    Thanks, Cory

    1. Hi Mr Simpson!
      This sounds like you have a pressure switch problem since this is the code the board is flashing. The control board has to sense that the pressure switch is opening when the draft inducer stops and closes when the draft inducer starts. If the pressure switch does not open and close properly it will flash a code that the pressure switch is not opening or closing. I would suggest that you check to make sure that the hole where the pressure switch hose attaches to the draft inducer is open. If you have a condensing furnace where water is involved please make sure the water drain is open on the furnace. If you think you need a new pressure switch please send me your furnace’s model number and I will be glad to look and see which pressure switch your furnace uses. Please email me at: support@arnoldservice.com You can manually hold the two wires together on the pressure switch when the draft inducer starts and see if the pressure switch is the problem and then separate the wires when the draft inducer stops. This should tell you if it is actually a pressure switch problem. I hope you find an easy solution and fix. Hope you have a blessed day! Steve Arnold, https://arnoldserv.wpengine.com

  58. Thanks for the article. Have an issue – woke up to no heat one morning. Found that the ONLY thing running in the furnace was the inducer motor, and it must have been running all night at the time the furnace gave out. Took out the ignitor/heat rod combo to clean the heat sensor rod and broke the ignitor – had to order a new one. Got the new one, reinstalled, and now absolutely NOTHING works. No call to heat, no inducer motor, no ignition, not blower. Jumped both wires at the thermostat – nothing. There is power going to the furnace – can hear it at the blower, but that is all that is happening. Already did all the basic trouble shooting. What could be the problem? TIA

    1. Hi Mark! Thanks so much for your interest in our website. When nothing works like you say. I would start by checking to see if the fuse on the control board (if equipped) is blown. Please make sure the safety switch on your blower door is closed. You would need to start checking with a volt meter set to volts AC. I would suggest first checking between R and C. You should be getting 24 volts. With the thermostat calling for heat check between W and C. You should be getting 24 volts AC between W and C when the furnace is calling for heat. If you aren’t get 24 volts between W and C then you might have a thermostat problem, a transformer problem or a thermostat wire problem. If everything checks out and you are getting 24 volts between W and C then I would look at the control board. You probably have a control board problem or a draft inducer problem. The first thing that the control board turns on in a heating cycle should be the draft inducer. If you want me to look up some parts then please send me you furnace model number. Best of luck in finding the problem. Steve Arnold, http://www.arnoldserv.wpengine.com

  59. I will be happy to try and answer any questions you have. Thanks so much for your interest and support in our website! Hope you have a blessed day! Steve

    1. Steve my Ruud 90 plus achiever wont come on. I replaced the control board and the inducer motor because it was getting real hot and started to smell. I made sure the door switch was closed and I am getting the 24 ac volt between w&c and r&c.
      I am getting a 2 flash from the board indicating an open pressure switch and bypassed them both and still will not kick on. ??

      1. Please send me your furnace’s model number and serial number so I can see the parts you have in your furnace. Did you test the pressure switches with a volt meter to see if they are closed when the draft inducer starts? I was going to look up the parts to see if your furnace requires a flame sensor kit with the new control board. Please email be back at our support@arnoldservice.com email address. Thanks! Steve

    2. Steve, how do I test the inducer motor? Or test the plug to ensure power from the board?

      1. Hi You would need to test at the plug with a volt meter. The draft inducer is the first thing that should come on when your thermostat calls for heat so you should be getting 110 volts out of the plug to the draft inducer. If you aren’t getting voltage out of the plug then you probably need a new control board. Sometimes the voltage from the control board will drop out when connected to a load (draft inducer) if there is a weak relay on the board. If you can test the power going to the draft inducer with it plugged into the draft inducer then this would be a more accurate test. No voltage probably new board. If you have voltage then probably a new draft inducer. Please be careful when working with live electricity that you do not short to ground or get shocked. Best of luck in fixing the problem. Steve

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *