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How to test and troubleshoot gas furnace pressure switches.


Question: How can I test to see if a pressure switch is operating properly?


  • Set your meter to volts AC, turn your furnace on so it is calling for heat. The draft inducer should start.
  • There should be either two or three wires going into your pressure switch.
  • Probe one lead of the pressure with one lead of your meter while touching the other lead of your meter to ground. Ground would be any bare metal part of your furnace. This must be bare metal. I always try to touch the other lead of my meter to the furnace’s switch box.
  • If you have a two wire pressure switch you should be getting 24 or more volts between both leads to ground. By this I mean if you touch one terminal of the pressure switch with one lead of your meter, and touch the other lead of your meter to a ground, bare metal part of your furnace, you should get 24 or more volts (24 to 28 volts).
  • If you do not get 24 or more volts with the furnace running then you have a pressure switch problem.
  • A gas furnace pressure switch problem could be caused by the following:
    • Your vent could be stopped up with a bird’s nest, wasp nest or debris.
    • You could have a bad, dragging, dirty or slow running draft inducer.
    • The tube that runs from your pressure switch to the draft inducer could be plugged up. Many times the tube is plugged up with water. If the pressure switch tube has water in it then this is a sign that you condensate drain line could be stopped up or not draining properly. You can disconnect the pressure switch tube and run a wet vac to hopefully clear the stopped up furnace condensate drain line.
    • The draft inducer hole could be plugged up. I have seen the draft inducer holes get stopped up so bad that I had to use a small drill bit and drill to open the hole back up.
    • On high efficiency condensing furnaces the water drain line could be stopped up, causing a water back up and blockage in the pressure switch tube. *Make sure you disconnect the pressure switch tube before using a wet vac because the high vacumn of the wet vac can damage the pressure switch. I usually take the drain hose loose from the condensing furnace and use a wet vacuum to open the drain back up.
    • I wanted to post this because many people are telling me that they are sucking on the pressure switch tubing to test pressure switch operation. I have heard from other forums that you should not suck on the pressure switch to test it because this can damage the diaphragm inside the pressure switch. It would be best to use a manometer or test with a volt meter like we advise on this page. I wanted to pass this along so others will not damage pressure switches.
  • Please click here if you are interested in seeing the furnace pressure switches that we sell
  • Please send us your furnace’s model number if you would like for us to recommend a pressure switch or part for your furnace. Our email address is:
  • Below we have a real good Youtube video made by GrayFurnaceman that shows how to troubleshoot a pressure switch on an 80% furnace. Thanks to GrayFurnaceman for making this informative video! I hope this will help you troubleshoot your gas furnace pressure switch.

43 thoughts on “How to test and troubleshoot gas furnace pressure switches.

  1. Steve, have a Tempstar ntg3100gfg1, would fire, but quit after 5-8 seconds, cleaned flame sensor, no difference, changed control module (S8600H instead of S8600M) now fires for about 12-15 seconds, what is my most logical next step/replacement?

    Thank you in advance, in Michigan, kind of cold out.

    1. Hi Hugh!
      This sounds like a flame sensing problem. Please make sure that all wires, especially the ground wires are good and tight. Make sure the control board is tightened down with a grounding screw. Our Tempstar parts program shows control ignition module part number 1011449 which is a Honeywell S8600. I am sorry, but I do not know the difference in the “H” and the “M” module. That could be your problem. We have a good post on troubleshooting flame sensor problems on the following page: There is a really good Video near the bottom of the page made by AC Service Tech. I hope this helps you out. Steve

  2. Greetings!

    Our furnace is a Goodman GPD125-4. I have seen the furnace shut down recently without reaching setpoint and upon opening its panel found the Red LED blinking twice indicating a pressure switch close issue. I tried to see if I could clean the pressure switch tubing but it seems pretty hard to come off either from the pressure switch or from the inducer motor assembly. I think our furnace is about 18 old. Not sure if this tube or pressure switch was ever changed. Do you have any recommendations on how one might go about removing and cleaning this tube? Thanks!

    1. Hi RD! More than likely the pressure switch tubing has gotten hot and melted on the metal part of the draft inducer. More than likely if you have enough slack in the tubing you will need to take a utility knife and cut the tubing off then cut the melted part off the draft inducer connection port. You might want to take a piece of the tubing to your local auto parts store or Home Depot and get one to match. I looked it up in our Goodman program and your furnace uses pressure switch part number B1370126 which we sell on the following page: I copied a parts list for your furnace below. I hope you can easily find and fix the problem. Yes, I would check to make sure the opening in the draft inducer was not restricted or replace the pressure switch. Happy New Year! Steve

      Total: 45 Model#: GPD125-4 Mfg#: GPD125-4
      Part Number Description Type Substitution
      B1141605 TRANSFORMER 120V TO 24V, 40 VA F 0130M00140
      B1282628 GAS VALVE (36G) F B1282628S
      B1368047A BLOWER WHEEL 10 X 10 F
      B1370154 ROLL OUT SWITCH, 350º W/O BRKT. F
      B1370155 AUXILIARY LIMIT SWITCH 1200
      B1370819 DOOR SWITCH F
      B1401018S IGNITOR F
      B1859005S VENT MOTOR & HOUSING (GMP) F
      B2589342 #42 ORIFICE
      B4022700 INSHOT BURNER ASSY 3″
      CAP100000370VAS CAPACITOR 10/370V [BLOWER] F CAP100000370VAP
      0130F00010 FLAME SENSOR F
      1284835 CAPACITOR STRAP
      1370911S PRIMARY LIMIT SWITCH 220ºF F
      2508006P TOP PANEL 21″
      2510002S FLUE COLLECTOR BOX 21″
      2513503 BURNER RACK 5 CELL 0121F00159
      2514000 SIDE PLATE, BURNER BOX 0121F00146
      2515501 J-BOX COVER OBSOLETE
      2516506S WRAPPER 21″ OBSOLETE
      2524002 DUCT ANGLE 21″ OBSOLETE
      2528003S FLUE RESTRICTOR PLATE 2.250 DIA
      2539307S BLOWER SHELL ASSY 10 X 10 0271F00112S
      2568410 WIRE HARNESS, BLOWER 2578402S
      2568411 WIRE HARNESS, HEAT EXCHANGER 2578402S
      2568412 WIRE HARNESS, HSI MODULE 2578402S
      2568413 WIRE HARNESS, HSI CONNECT 4078401S
      4022703S BURNER RACK ASSY 5 CELL
      764741 BLWR BLK-OFF,10X10

      1. Thank you so much, Steve. Very much appreciate you taking the time to reply in detail and also for listing out the parts for my furnace. Do you also sell the tubing that goes with this pressure switch?

        Thanks again and wishing you a very happy and successful new year!


      2. Hi RD! Thanks so much for your kind words! I do not know what size of the inside diameter that the pressure switch tubing for your furnace uses. We sell some pressure switch tubing on the following pages: and Sorry that we do not sell any of the OEM pressure switch tubing. I would like to suggest that you take a piece of the tubing to your local auto parts store or Home Depot and let them try to match the size up for you. I hope you have a great day and weekend! Steve

  3. Hello Mr. Arnold , in looking for the cause of a Nordyne furnace not turning on I found the voltage to the draft infucer to be at 193 volts.Is this normal?

    1. Hi Abel! No sir, 193 volts would not be normal voltage going into power the draft inducer unless you are working on a commercial furnace that is powered by 220 volts. Most residential furnaces run off of 120 volts. You might have a bad draft inducer or control board. Something may be shorted out and causes the voltage to be high. We have lots of furnace troubleshooting advice on the following page: I would suggest going through the troubleshooting flow chart to see what is wrong: We also have lots of troubleshooting questions and answers on the following page: If you have any specific questions please let me know. Thanks! I hope you can easily find and fix the problem. Steve

  4. Hello Steve,

    Thank you for all this information!

    When I call for heat, the inducer motor kicks in, and the pressure switch closes, but there is no voltage across the terminals (which I understand should be 24VAC). I’m assuming this is why the hot surface igniter isn’t getting a signal to turn on. Do you know how I can further diagnose if this is truly a pressure switch problem or a problem with the control board (or something else)? It just seems odd to have the pressure switch close and not have 24VAC. I have an 80% efficiency unit.

    1. Hi Jon! Yes, that is not normal for the pressure switch to not get 24 volts AC between each terminal to ground when the draft inducer is running. I would think that you either have an open safety control like a limit or rollout switch, a loose connection in the wires or a faulty control board. I would suggest testing the limit and rollouts to make sure all of them are closed allowing current to run through them. I hope you have a Happy New Year! Steve

      1. Steve,

        Thank you so much for your help and quick response. I went to recheck continuity over the limit and rollout switches, and they were all fine. I even checked the wires to make sure they were good. I didn’t have to replace or reset the switches, but when I plugged everything back in the furnace booted up!

        Happy New Year and thanks again! You are awesome.


      2. Great Jon! Fantastic! Glad to hear that your furnace started working! Thanks for taking your time to let me know! I hope you and your family have a Happy, Healthy and Prosperous 2019! Steve

  5. Dear Mr. Arnold, thank you for your valuable info here. I have a York 95% high efficiency furnace that has the same error code as one of the previous posts ( Jack from January 2017): 6 red flashes, means “while the unit was operating, the pressure switch opened 4 times during the call for heat. Check for faulty inducer, blocked vent pipe or faulty pressure switch. The furnace will lock out for one hour and then restart.” I checked the pressure switch using your method: ground on bare metal which is the switch box, the other on pressure switch, they read 24 volts, resistance by putting two probes on the pressure switch read almost nothing, so I don’t think my pressure switch is bad. I noticed the vent pipe (outgoing one) has one opening conneted to draft inducer with a rubber tubing, and the other opening is closed with a plastic cap. Every time the furnace runs, water will leak out from the cap to the bottom of the chamber. There is always a small pool of water after the furnace run. If I unplug the tube and the cap, water will run out of there, quite a bit. I blow air to those holes and from the tube to draft inducer, they don’t seem to be blocked but I hear water sometimes stays in draft inducer but not always. The condensation box connecting to the inducer seems working too. What do you think the problem could be? Is my vent pipe blocked? How can I check that? There is another thing I noticed that my draft inducer is having a quiet humming sound when furnace is not running, my other furnace (I have one for each floor) has no noticeable sound at all. Is this a concern too? Or is it related to my 6 red flashing code problem? And one more problem, my thermostat connected to this problem furnace seems starting to call heat way early than it should be, like reaching the designated temperature two hours early, like I set temperature to be 68 at 7 am, it’s already there by 5. I am not sure if these are all related or separate problems. Thank you for your advice. Sue

    1. Good morning Sue! I would suggest that you test the pressure switch with the furnace draft inducer running with the thermostat calling for heat. You should get a constant 24 volts between each of the two terminals of the pressure switch to a good ground on the furnace. Of course, the problem could be occurring when you are not testing with a voltmeter. Since you say that you are having water leaking inside the furnace this would be a sign that there is a leak in the vent system collector box or the furnace’s condensate drain is partially stopped up on your furnace. I would like to suggest that you disconnect the pressure switch tubing and clean the condensate drain on your furnace to make sure the drain system on your furnace is clean. Try to pour water into the draft inducer to make sure that the condensate drain line is open. You might have to attach a tube to the draft inducer so you can pour water into it. Do not use a vac with the pressure switch connected or it could damage the pressure switch. Do not blow or suck on the pressure switch with your mouth because this could damage the pressure switch. The draft inducer should not be humming and more than likely this is the low voltage transformer that you hear humming and not the draft inducer. The thermostat should not be connected to the 6 red flashes problem. The only way that I know to clean a vent pipe on a furnace is to take the plastic vent pipe apart and blow it out or suck it out with a strong wet vac. Most of the time the vent pipe being stopped up is not the problem. If it was me I would make sure the condensate drain, draft inducer drain is open on the furnace and if that did not work I would try a new pressure switch. I hope you can fix this problem soon. Hope you have a great day and week! Steve

  6. Hi, my pressure switch on the clare megasave has two tubes, i assume one is negative pressure and one positive pressure. If i disconnect the line with the positive pressure, the pressure switch shuts off, but with the disconnected tube it works fine. What could that be?

    1. Hi! Sorry, but I do not know what the problem could be. I am not familiar with Clare Megasave furnaces. I would suggest making sure that both ports where the pressure switches hook up are clear and open. If the furnace produces water make sure the drain is clean and draining properly. Make sure that the draft inducer vent pipe is clean. clear and the draft inducer is running up to full speed. If all these check out then I would recommend a new pressure switch. Sorry that I can not be much help. Steve

  7. i have a lennox rooftop the draft inducer will not start when stat is calling for heat if i jumper the air proving switch inducer and heater will come on and stay on for the reqd/ time but will not come back on again until i repeat the same sequence again and once again will run until the reqd temp is reached any input will be helpfull thank you jacob

    1. Hi Jacob! I am sorry that I do not know much about Lennox rooftop equipment. It sounds like you either have a bad pressure switch or control board since everything works when the pressure switch is jumped. Of course, you know that the draft inducer should be started by the control board when the thermostat calls for heat. I am guessing that the control board is at fault because the draft inducer will not start until the pressure switch is jumped. I am sorry that I can not be much help on this. Maybe someone reading this can be of more help I hope. Steve

  8. Hi Mr. A,
    Well here I am once again. I have a 28 year old Rheem (unit#2) RGVC 07EA – ER that is making me batty. By the way unit one is running find thanks for all the tips. Unit #2 runs perfect cycles with a jumper switch from the pressure switch NC to the NO poles. Thermostat calls for heat, starts the inducer motor, then without the jumper in place the unit inducer just runs with no ignition. I get 24Vs to the white wire on the PS but the black wire, that goes from the PS to the Honeywell S86F controller, reminds without power so no ignition. When I jumper the NC – NO poles the furnace works flawlessly. Calls for heat, runs a full heat cycle with the blower working as it should, until the thermostat is satisfied, then the blowers runs on the cool down cycle then shuts off until the next call for heat. Runs flawlessly without fail. New OEM switch just installed with new tube. I was taught the old method of mouth to tube and suck lightly to close the PS switch. The inducer fan is a Fasco replacement fan put in some years ago. If I do the mouth to tube test the furnace ignites and runs as long as I hold pressure on the switch. Hence my question. I thought that if the switch was jumped and the furnace ran a complete cycle that once it called for heat again the jumped poles would not allow the furnace to work because they were jumped, unless all tested out ok before the heat cycle began. I think my thinking is wrong but I am not quite sure. Wouldn’t the jumped switch prevent this re-ignition sequence from occurring? My need is due to the fact that I have had so many licensed and qualified professionals come, replace parts, charge rather large fess to no avail.
    Rev J
    P.S. Sorry to pester you so much but I am a sought of hands on guy who likes to solve mysteries.

    1. Hi Rev John! Yes sir you are right on most furnaces. I do not know for sure about Rheem, but the control board should not allow the furnace to run more than one cycle with the pressure switch jumped. On most furnaces you would get a “pressure switch stuck closed” fault on the control board. The pressure switch should open and close between each cycle. Maybe the control board you have is not designed to do this. Sorry that I do not know. The draft inducer as you know should be producing enough negative pressure to keep the pressure switch closed. I am sure you have all ready done this, but please make sure the hole in the draft induce is open and free of any obstructions. Please make sure the vent pipe is not obstructed. Please make sure the draft inducer is fastened tight to the furnace body. If you want me to try and look up parts then please send me your model number and serial number to our account. Sorry that I can not be of much help. Steve

      1. Can I tell by how often the bubbles are moving threw the hose and how often?Trying to decide if I should call for service

      2. You should not have bubbles running through your pressure switch tubing. Furnaces have air pressure switches and if you are getting water in the tubes you might have a stopped up furnace condensate drain if you have a 92% condensing furnace or moisture might be getting into your furnace vent system. Liquid should not be in the pressure switch tube. I hope you can easily find and fix the problem. Steve

  9. Arnold, I am troubleshooting a York GY9S080B12UP11J 90% furnace that is throwing a “Pressure switch cycle lockout” fault code. The User’s Information, Maintenance and Service Manual, , expands on this: “6 RED FLASHES: This indicates that after the unit was operating, the pressure switch opened 4 times during the call for heat. If the main blower is in a ‘Delay on’ mode it will complete it, and any subsequent delay off period. The furnace will lock out for one hour and then restart.”

    I teed into the hose that goes from the port on the draft inducer to the pressure switch with a Bourdon style vacuum/pressure gauge, the kind sold in auto parts stores (don’t yet have a manometer, it’s in the mail). With the call for heat sequence initiated the draft inducer motor started up. There was no discernible movement in the gauge needle, but I could hear the pressure switch click closed. I realize the vacuum gauge is not quite fine enough to get an accurate reading, but I thought I would see SOME movement in the needle. I suspected that the negative pressure at the draft inducer housing port was weak, so I checked the usual suspects. There was no problem with the condensate drainage, the motor ran smoothly and the combustion gas vent was perfectly clear, so I took apart the draft inducer housing. Everything looked great. The wheel fan was in perfect condition and there were no cracks in the housing. Could there be a problem in the heat exchanger, or some other condition, that would cause a weak negative pressure at the draft inducer housing port?


    1. Hi Jack! Any leaks in the heat exchanger or your combustion chamber could cause a weak negative pressure at the draft inducer housing port. You might try to suck out the condensate drain with a wet vac to make sure there is not an obstruction in the drain or in the secondary heat exchanger. I am sure you already know this, but please disconnect your pressure switch before using a wet vac on the furnace because this will damage the pressure switch. Do not suck on the pressure switch with your mouth to try and produce a vac. This can damage the pressure switch too. I looked it up in our York parts program and your furnace uses pressure switch part number: S1-02435261000. In the description is says, “SWITCH,PRES,AIR,1.00 ON FALL,SPNO”. It looks like it is a 1.0 WC pressure switch. You might try a new pressure switch if all else fails. We do not stock this pressure switch. I hope you can easily find and fix the problem. Steve

      1. Just received the manometer I ordered. Going to check the negative pressure at the draft inducer port tomorrow. Tracked down the service manual/parts list for this model and found the pressure switch on eBay and bought it just in case. Will post findings.
        I checked the condensate drainage system. I removed and blew out the trap, reinstalled and observed the condensate dripping out while the furnace ran. There are also no problems with the vent.
        The manometer arrived, and measuring between the draft inducer and the pressure switch for 15 minutes with the manometer teed in, I got an average reading of 1.35 inches of water column with a low reading of 1.22. The pressure switch is rated to open at 1.00 inches of water column. The error code that keeps popping up indicates that the pressure switch closed four times during the last call for heat. I have read that the negative pressure produced by the draft inducer should be 3 times higher than what is required to close the pressure switch. This is obviously not happening in this case. This a case of low negative pressure at the draft inducer, that is not caused by a drainage or venting problem, or by defecting hoses to and from the pressure switch. I checked all that.

        I can only conclude that the problem must lie with either the draft inducer itself, defects in the heat transfer system or, least likely, the pressure switch.

      2. Thanks Jack! I am interested to know what you find the problem is.

      3. To day I found a double trap condition caused by the condensate drain line being too deep in the well of the condensate pump. I cut the 1 inch PVC condensate drain line where it enters the condensate drain pump so that the bottom of the drain line is never below the water in the pump well. I am waiting to hear back from the client to see if this fixed the problem. Will let you know the outcome.

      4. Hi Jack! Thanks for sharing! I hope this fixes your customers problem. I can see where if the drain tube was bottomed out against the bottom of the condensate pump that this would cause the furnace drain to stop up.

  10. Lots of good info here. Quick question…having a similar issue. Thermostat calls for heat, inducer comes on, pressure switch closes, burners ignite, etc. However, when the blower motor kicks on, the pressure switch temporarily opens and of course the burners drop out. I’ve checked the vent tube, vent, etc. Now for the weird part…I noticed the air filter was stopped up. Removed it and now the system is working correctly 90% of the time. Any suggestions? What would the air filter matter? The induction motor, hose, etc seem to be fine. 20
    Year old Lenox unit.

    1. Hi Mr. Smith! This could be a number of things causing this problem. It could be a voltage drop in the low voltage circuit when the blower fan relay on the control board kicks on. I would suggest that you test the voltage going to the pressure switch when the blower comes on. You should be above 24 volts AC when the blower kicks on. If you aren’t then you might have a contact in the control board that is arcing, getting weak and causing a voltage drop. I really have no idea why the problem would get better when the filter was changed. Please make sure that the draft inducer is securely attached to the furnace body with no leaks. You might want to check to make sure the inducer is tight. Please make sure you do not have any leaks in your return air system. If the return air is open anywhere near the furnace it could be causing negative pressure in the furnace room and can cause the pressure switch to not open properly. Sorry that I can not give anymore advice. I hope you can easily find and fix this problem. Steve

  11. i read your writing here,very helpful , thanks for further consideration excelent

  12. I have an older Payne 373LAV036070 that is having problems starting and staying on in the case it does start. The sequence of events I am observing is: 1) blower starts and runs for about 1 minute or so, 2) the blower turns off and the draft inducer starts, 3) the igniters glow, 4) The flame turns on and blower starts 5) heater runs for a couple of minutes (draft inducer and blower going), 5) draft inducer goes off, flame goes off, blower continues 7) blower shuts off, 8) cycle starts over, sometimes, but rarely successfully. When it fails, LED code 31 flashes, indicating a pressure switch failure. There is some buzzing from the controller that seems to coincide with the call for heat. I have to pull the plug to reset and start the cycle again. (BTW, I get about 26 volts between W & C.)
    From the things I’ve read, the blower shouldn’t start before the draft inducer. If that is a symptom, then I suppose it’s a controller issue. If not, maybe it’s something to do with the pressure switch or an obstruction in the draft inducer ducting. Two questions…. What do you think? And, can I still get the parts to fix this unit?

    1. Hi Greg! Sorry you are having trouble with your furnace running the complete cycle. I will start by saying that if you turn the power switch off on the side of your furnace then turn the power back on it is normal for the furnace to run for a minute or 2 to get rid of any heat that is stored in the furnace in case of a power failure. This 1 to 2 minute run time is built into the board and is normal. If the blower starts from the very beginning without turning the power off and on then yes, I agree you probably have a control board problem. From your description it sounds like the furnace is running normal until it cuts the gas off prematurely. This is probably because the furnace has over-heated and is going off on limit. When the furnace cuts off prematurely please check between W and C (com). You should get a constant 24 to 28 volts AC from the thermostat between these two terminals on your control board. If not then the thermostat is cutting the gas off. If you are getting 24 to 28 volts then this is normal and I would suggest troubleshooting the next control which would be the limit. You should be getting 24 to 28 volts from each terminal on the limit to a good ground. We discuss this problem of over-heating on the following page: If you would like for me to look up parts for you then please send your furnace’s product number. There should be 4 letters after the model number 373LAV036070. It would be best to contact me at the email address if you want me to recommend parts. Please let me know if I can help you out. I hope you can easily find and fix this problem. Steve

      1. Thank you for the quick reply. First thing…you are right about the blower starting in the beginning. It seems to coincide with my constant resetting to evaluate the symptoms. So, the scenario I gave you was what I thought was the most telling, because it went most of the way through a cycle without shutting off. However, often the furnace fails to start. I am consistently getting 26 volts between W & C (and have even bypassed the thermostat for testing.) The limit switch shows voltage on both terminals between ground and no resistance between them. When the flame does come on, the cycle ends with no resistance between the terminals. The one thing that seems constant in all cases is the draft inducer is shutting off as the first sign of failure. It appears the pressure switch is working ok… both terminals have 26 volts (when grounded) past the point where the draft inducer shuts off, only closing once the motor slows a bit. I think I am also hearing the switch close a few seconds after the inducer shuts off. The manually re-settable switches don’t appear to have triggered. Knowing nothing about this stuff (but a little about other stuff), I would guess there is a faulty relay meant to to trigger the inducer motor. Maybe this is just part of the controller. I really appreciate your help on this. Thank you, Greg

      2. Hi Greg! Yes, you would need to see what is controlling the draft inducer, either a relay or a control board. I would suggest tracing the wires from the draft inducer to see what is supplying the power to the draft inducer either a relay or control board. This is probably where the problem is. Either the draft inducer is bad or the relay or control board relay is bad. I hope you can easily find and fix the problem. Steve

    2. Perhaps the ps has a pin hole in the diaphram

      1. Yes, The pressure switch could very well have a pin hole in the diaphram.

  13. Im having the same issue. Get 3 blinks indicating the switch is stuck open. Checked all my vents and they are clear. My inducer fan starts but wont trigger my switch closed. If i suck on the hose, it closes, glow coil glows, and igniter ignites. But as soon as i remove my mouth from the hose it all shuts back down. I borrowed a manometer from a buddy and tested on the inducer fan when it starts up. Its reading .38-.46 in-wg. Not sure exactly what that means. But i know its telling me that the fan is sucking in air. The furnace worked this past April. Any help is appreciated. Its a tempstar furnace. 80 afue. Installed around 07-08.

    1. Hi Mr. Backus!
      This sounds like you need a new pressure switch. I heard recently that you should not suck on the pressure switches because it can mess them up. I used to do this so do not feel bad. Please send me your furnace’s model number and I will tell you which pressure switch your furnace is supposed to have. Please email me at with the model number or manufacturer’s number. I hope you have a great day! Steve

  14. my gas unit code 3 flashes my pressure switch not work , i replace the pressure switch nothing happen my reducer fan didn’t come on my glow bulb didn’t light up please tell what the problem.

    1. Hi Mr. Arnold! Great last name! If the draft inducer does not work the pressure switch will not close and send the message to the control board that the pressure switch is not closing and you will get the 3 flashes. Your main problem could be the control board or draft inducer. When the control board receives 24 to 28 volts AC from the thermostat between terminals W and C (com) the draft inducer should start. Please check and make sure you are getting 24 volts AC between W & C. Then test to see if you are getting 110 to 125 volts AC to the draft inducer. If you aren’t then probably the control board relay on the control board that controls the draft inducer is bad. If you are getting 110 to the draft inducer and it is not starting then you have a bad draft inducer motor. We have a troubleshooting flow chart on the following page the should help you find the problem: If you want me to look up parts please send me your furnace’s model number. I hope you can easily find the problem. Steve Arnold

      1. i have kenmore gas furnace 80 ,it stopped a week ago .a friend came,he started the furnace and pressure switch was the problem .the furnace stopped again . if this is switch problem , can we put a compatable switch old part # is fs 5070-52.

      2. Hi Mr. Chaudry! Please send your Kenmore furnace model number to me at our address and I will try and look it up and see which pressure switch is used on your furnace. Please make sure that your vent is open and the hole where the pressure switch tube is attached is not stopped up. I would suggest taking the pressure switch tubing off and running a wire or a small drill bit in through the hole in the draft inducer to make sure it is open. I hope you can easily find and fix the problem. Steve

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