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Problem: How Do I Test My Gas Furnace Rollout Switch, Limit Switch, Pressure Switch and Flame Sensor?

Problem: My gas furnace’s ignitor will not glow, my electronic ignition will not spark and my gas furnace will not ignite the gas. Steve, You told me to make sure that all my safety controls are closed before testing the control board and other components for problems. Where are the furnace’s safety controls that you are referring to and how do I test these controls to make sure they are working correctly?

Answer: We have this question asked a lot. For the gas furnace to operate the safety controls like the rollout switches, limit switch, and pressure switch have to be closed and allow the 24 volt AC current to flow through the controls. If you have an open safety control then your furnace will not operate. The safety controls are installed by the manufacturer’s engineers to prevent a fire and possible carbon monoxide poisoning. The flame sensor has to sense the gas burner flame and send microamps back to the furnace control board telling the control board that there is a flame. No flame sensed by the flame sensor then within 8 to 10 seconds the flames cut off. No heat!  We have an excellent YouTube video made by AC Service Tech LLC below that explains how to quickly test and troubleshoot these safety controls. If you find out that you need a rollout or limit switch then please click here to see the rollout and limit switches that we sell. If you test and find out that you need a pressure switch then please click here to see the furnace pressure switches that we sell.  If you find out that you need a flame sensor then please click here to see the flame sensors that we sell. If you have any questions or if you would like for us to look up parts then please send us your furnace’s model number by email at support@arnoldservice.com. We will be glad to try and help you out. Please comment below if you have any questions or comments.  We would love to help you out and earn your business! 

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Problem: Please help me identify my gas furnace parts, functions and how they operate?

Problems: We have these questions asked many times: Where are the various parts on my gas furnace located? Many of our potential customers ask where is the hot surface ignitor, gas valve, flame sensor, control board, draft inducer, limit, and rollouts on my gas furnace located? I can not find where this part is located? Where are the parts located and what function does each part perform? How does a gas furnace operate?

Answer: We have these questions asked a lot. Below we have a really good super great YouTube video where AC Service Tech LLC shows and explains where the gas furnace parts are located and what the functions are for each gas furnace part. This is an excellent gas furnace troubleshooting video! Thanks so very much to AC Service Tech LLC. for making this excellent educational and informative video!! The video shows where the following gas furnace parts are located: control board,  control board fuse, low voltage transformer, thermostat, blower door safety switch, blower motor, blower motor capacitor, inducer motor, inducer motor capacitor,  pressure switch, limit switch, rollout switches, hot surface ignitor, flame sensor, burners, and gas valve. 

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Problem My Gas Furnace Will Not Heat! What Furnace Parts Might Cause This Problem?

Problem: My Gas furnace will not heat or work. What furnace parts might be the cause of this problem? 

Answer: We have this question asked lots. There are 6 main parts that can cause your furnace to not heat. Some of these parts can be blamed or misdiagnosed as bad when actually the part is good. The only way to find out if the part is bad or not is to do some testing. Below we have a really good super YouTube video where AC Service Tech LLC shows and explains what the 6 most frequently misdiagnosed parts are and how to test them. I have listed below the video many troubleshooting links where AC Service Tech explains how to troubleshoot each furnace part in detail. There are also links to the troubleshooting tools that AC Service Tech uses in the video. Thanks so very much to AC Service Tech LLC. for making these excellent informative videos!! 

The 6 parts that are blamed and misdiagnosed most often are:

  1. Flame Rod or Flame Sensor- Usually cleaning the flame sensor will fix the problem.
  2. Gas Valve –AC Service Tech LLC has testing and troubleshooting links to YouTube Videos below.
  3. Pressure Switch-AC Service Tech LLC has testing and troubleshooting links to YouTube Videos below.
  4. Control Board-AC Service Tech LLC has testing and troubleshooting links to YouTube Videos below.
  5. Blower Motor is bad or on High-Efficiency furnaces, the ECM Blower Motor is diagnosed as bad-Many times a motor run capacitor can be replaced on PSC (Permanent Split Capacitor) blower motors and it will fix the blower motor problem. Most of the time the ECM motor module is bad and the motor is not actually bad. Replacing the motor module is less expensive than replacing the entire ECM motor.  AC Service Tech LLC has testing and troubleshooting links to YouTube Videos below.
  6. Heat Exchanger is bad. If one of your rollout switches is going off where you have to reset the rollout switch then this is a sure sign that you have a heat exchanger or venting problems. Make sure your condensate drain is open and your vent is not obstructed if you have a 92% or above condensing furnace that produces water during the winter.

Below we have a great video made by AC Service Tech LLC. that shows the

Below are many links to a more detailed explanation for troubleshooting the problems described in the video. Thanks so very much AC Service Tech LLC. 

Related Videos: -Top 10 Pressure Switch Problems-  https://youtu.be/bY6QcnlbutI -Pressure Switch Troubleshooting-  https://youtu.be/v9QWIr9TIVU -Cleaning the Condensate Tubing-  https://youtu.be/guf3TESb3V0   -Pressure Switch Testing and Replacement-  https://youtu.be/6P6r6POGHDcHow -The Pressure Switch Works-  https://youtu.be/9DAEZvkyO9A -Why The Pressure Switch Wont Work While the Condensate Drain is Clogged-  https://youtu.be/XKAyznghlro -Using The SDMN6 to Test Pressure Switches- https://youtu.be/mKtGL8NJ58Q -ECM Blower Motor Testing: Make Your Own -ECM Tester- https://youtu.be/lKsIgjEJDII   -X-13 ECM Blower Motor Testing-  https://youtu.be/SamEuSzvYbEECM -Variable Speed Blower Testing- https://youtu.be/locNv9WsanA -10 reasons Why The Blower Motor Won’t Turn On- https://youtu.be/T5j4Q8Zp_qk -4 Reasons Why the Blower Motor Won’t Shut Off- https://youtu.be/wX3hCqwUjkE -What Type Of Blower Motor Do I Have-  https://youtu.be/EHwTZFvv-2Q -240 volt PSC Blower Motor Fan Speeds- https://youtu.be/5GITgsRmSZ4 -How to Tell the Difference Between Blower Fan Motors- https://youtu.be/EHwTZFvv-2Q -Gas Valve Troubleshooting-  https://youtu.be/euUrufn6AsI -Combination Gas Valve, How it Works-  https://youtu.be/7m5ZDvOoVwU -Smart Valve Troubleshooting-  https://youtu.be/qjrrXmLlLRc -Furnace Flame Sensor and Rectification Troubleshooting-  https://youtu.be/LtfghUYfl-4How -Flame Rectification Works-  https://youtu.be/kfQ2ivr4gSw -Single Rod Spark Ignition and Flame Rectification- https://youtu.be/GNYdOIvWyyk   -Two Rod Spark Ignition and Flame Rectification- https://youtu.be/dUFcVJXJ8Vg -Troubleshooting the Furnace Control Board- https://youtu.be/phsUYxo75jU -Thermostat Wiring to a Furnace and AC Unit- https://youtu.be/GoThAlOvSts -Heat Pump Thermostat Wiring Explained- https://youtu.be/tf2OxCDwlFY -Thermostat Wiring Diagrams- https://youtu.be/h24-n9kyw0w -Clogged 90% Furnace Heat Exchanger- https://youtu.be/sNlWZEzSfrA -Why the Furnace Sequence of Operation is Important- https://youtu.be/uKsRpYmwlnM Electrical Diagnosis Tools: UEI DL389 Multimeter http://amzn.to/2xAdaJf UEI DL479 Multimeter with temp sensor http://amzn.to/2jtsUbJ Magnet Jumpers- https://amzn.to/2PyKPQZ Alligator Jumpers- https://amzn.to/2PxqJXn Irwin Wire Stripper/Cutter/Crimper http://amzn.to/2dGTj2V Water Column Manometers FieldpieceSDMN6 Dual Manometer Pump – http://amzn.to/2jyK5Ka UEI Digital Dual Manometer – https://amzn.to/2CWC6BD Supco Universal Adjustable Pressure Switch -.01wc -10.0wc – http://amzn.to/2G1y0py 3/16″ x 3/16″ x 3/16″ brass barbed tee – https://amzn.to/2INSRhQ 1/8″ NPTF x 3/16″ barb fitting for reading wc pressure – https://amzn.to/2G563Bq Combustion and CO Detectors: Testo CO detector https://amzn.to/33yqkqK Testo 310 Res Combustion Analyzer https://amzn.to/2NuYAO5Testo 310 Res Combustion Analyzer with printer https://amzn.to/33vLl53 Testo 320 w printer  https://amzn.to/33xZbUz Vacuum Tools: JB 6 CFM Vacuum Pump – http://amzn.to/2nqbvo8 CPS 4 CFM Vacuum Pump – https://amzn.to/2DxgPwY Appion Valve Core Removal Tool – http://amzn.to/2uYr8WL Appion Blue 3/8″ to 1/4″ Vacuum Hose – http://amzn.to/2uYlVyc Appion Red 3/8″ to 1/4″ Vacuum Hose – http://amzn.to/2uYg6Ro Yellow Jacket 1/4″ by 1/4″ 3’ hose – http://amzn.to/2umtcod Appion 1/4″ by 1/4″ and 3/8” hose – https://amzn.to/2Zyxzx9 Uniweld 1/4″ by 1/4″ 2’ hose – https://amzn.to/2GFov1Y CPS Vacuum Micron Gauge – http://amzn.to/2v1nM3O Checking the Charge Tools: Yellow Jacket Refrigerant Gauge Set http://amzn.to/2aenwTq Refrigerant hoses with valves http://amzn.to/2aBumVI Compact Ball Valve for Refrigerant Hose https://amzn.to/2KUisW8 QuickDisconnect 90 for refrigerant hose https://amzn.to/2MMtVcg RectorSeal Bubble Gas Leak Detector http://amzn.to/2ckWACn Fieldpiece ST4 Dual Temp Meter http://amzn.to/2wc1ME3 Fieldpiece Bead K Type Temp Sensor https://amzn.to/2DBwKfs Fieldpiece Wet Bulb Temp Sensor https://amzn.to/2RRI7Tw Fieldpiece TC24 Temp Clamp https://amzn.to/2qHLyjZ Refrigerant Leak Detection Tool: Accutrak VPE Ultrasonic Leak Detector https://amzn.to/2nFYKVe

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Problem My Gas Furnace will not turn On? Nothing Happens?

Troubleshooting Gas & Electric Furnaces

Problem: My gas furnace will not turn on? Nothing happens when I turn the heat up on my thermostat to start my furnace. What could be the reason that my gas furnace will not start?

Answer: We have this question and problem asked many times. I have had this problem with my own furnace over the years. Below we have a great YouTube video made by AC Service Tech LLC that explains 8 reasons why that a gas furnace will not turn on. Many thanks to AC Service Tech for making this excellent troubleshooting video! Here are the 8 short reasons why the gas furnace will not turn on. If you would like an explanation of the reasons I would highly recommend watching this 12-minute video.

Reasons why a gas furnace will not turn on:

  1. No power to the furnace. Make sure that you check the power switch, the circuit breaker, and the door safety switch to make sure they are all on. You can tape the door safety switch down so the furnace will be on and check with a voltmeter set to “Volts AC” to see if you are getting power between L1 and neutral wire on the control board. You should be getting between 110 to 125 volts AC between L1 and neutral.
  2. You could have a bad transformer or a bad low voltage fuse. You should be getting 24 to 29 volts AC between the R and C terminals on the control board. We sell low voltage transformers on the following page: Please click here if you are interested in the low voltage transformers that we sell.
  3. Something could be opening the low voltage circuit like a condensate pump low voltage safety switch. Please click here if you are interested in the low voltage condensate pump safety switches we sell. 
  4. The thermostat wire could be shorted out or you could have an intermittent electrical, loose connection.
  5. The thermostat could be bad. If your thermostat has batteries make sure the batteries are in good condition.
  6. The control board could be bad and the board might not be allowing power to go to the inducer motor. You could have a bad relay on the control board. Please click here if you are interested in the furnace control boards that we sell. 
  7. The inducer motor might have a bad inducer motor capacitor. Please click here if you are interested in the inducer motor capacitors that we sell. 
  8. The inducer motor might be bad. You might need a new draft inducer. Please click here if you are interested in the draft inducers that we sell. 

Below is a great video made by AC Service Tech that explains the 8 reasons why a gas furnace does not start. Thanks so very much AC Service Tech!

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Question: What Are the Top 10 Furnace Troubleshooting Problems?

Troubleshooting Gas & Electric Furnaces

Question: What are the top 10 gas furnace troubleshooting problems? What should I be looking for if my furnace stops working?

Answer: We have this question asked quite often. We have a really good YouTube video from Word of Advice TV that discusses the top 10 furnace problems. Jay took the list from 315 service calls that he made during one heating season. One half of the video discusses the top 10 furnace problems and the other half of the video discusses honorable mention furnace problems.  Many thanks to Word of Advice TV for making this excellent video!  Here is the list of the top 10 problems and some of the honorable mention furnace troubleshooting problems. Please feel free to email us anytime if you have any questions. Our email address is Support@arnoldservice.com We would love to try and help you out and earn your business!

  1. A dirty flame sensor is the number one furnace troubleshooting problem.
  2. Having a dirty furnace filter that causes the furnace to go off on high limit. The furnace has poor airflow.
  3. Bad inducer motor.
  4. Bad blower motor.
  5. Bad control board.
  6. Bad gas valve and tied with having found a bad heat exchanger in the same number of service calls.
  7. Bad ignitor and tied with having found a plugged or stopped up evaporator coil in having the same number of service calls.
  8. Bad ignition module.
  9. Bad thermostat and tied with having found a dirty pilot assembly in having the same number of service calls.
  10. Plugged or stopped up condensate trap.

Honorable Mention Problems: 

  1. High limit switch stuck open.
  2. Bad pressure switch.
  3. Noisy blower wheel or motor.
  4. Bad 3 wire pilot.
  5. Blown control board fuse.
  6. Furnace breaker tripped.
  7. Leaking collector box.

You Can Search Our Site for More Troubleshooting Problems, Heating, Air Conditioning Parts, and Supplies in the Google Seach box below.

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Question: Where should I look for refrigerant leaks on my AC unit?

ultrasonic leak detector

Question: My air conditioning system is leaking refrigerant somewhere? Every year we have to call an HVAC company to charge our system which is quite expensive! Where should I look for refrigerant leaks on my AC unit? Where are the most common places in the air conditioning system where leaks are found most often?

Answer: We have this question asked quite often. Finding refrigerant leaks is probably the most difficult joy that an HVAC tech has to do. Refrigerant leaks can be found in easy to see places or in almost impossible to see places. When I was doing HVAC service work if I did not see any leaks (oily spots) on the outdoor unit or oily spots on the refrigerant line set I would inject fluorescent dye in the system, allow the dye to circulate for a few days then come back with a black light in dark conditions to try and find the leak. Most leaks that I found were in the indoor evaporator coil. The dye was good but time-consuming. It was good that I could show the customer where the leak/leaks were, but bad that I had to make two trips and spend lots of time uncovering the evaporator coil to see the leaks. Probably 90% of the time the customer needed a new evaporator coil to stop the leaks. Below we have a really good YouTube video made by AC Service Tech LLC that explains and shows the top 10 spots where air conditioner leaks occur most often. Thanks so very much to AC Service Tech LLC for making this excellent YouTube Video! AC Service Tech uses an ultrasonic leak detector to find many of the leaks in this video. I sure wish they had ultrasonic leak detectors when I was doing service work. Those ultrasonic leak detectors are not cheap about $450 to $600, but seem to be really good!  Here is the written list of the 10 most common spots where refrigerant leaks are found. The YouTube video is really good at explaining these leaky areas in more detail. If you have any questions please comment below or email us anytime support@arnoldservice.com We would love to help you out and earn your business!

Here are the top 10 spots where leaks in air conditioners and heat pump occur most often:

  1. Leaking Shrader valve caps or sometimes called Schrader valve cores. Make sure the Schrader valve caps are in good condition. We sell a set of 10 really good Schrader valve caps on the following page. Please click here if you are interested in seeing the Schrader valve caps that we sell.
  2. Leaking on the indoor evaporator coil where the tubing goes through the galvanized tin.
  3. Leaking in the joints of the evaporator coil tubing where the tubing is brazed together.
  4. Leaking in the refrigerant distributor tubes at the evaporator coil.
  5. Leaking in the middle of the tubing in the evaporator coil. The tubing is extremely thin.
  6. Leaking “O” rings on the outdoor service valves.
  7. Leaking outdoor condenser coil.
  8. Leaking filter driers where brazing has burnt the paint off the drier and rusted over time. Poor brazing on the filter driers.
  9. Leaking accumulator tank. Some AC units and many heat pumps have accumulators than are prone to rusting and leaking.
  10. Leaking bottom tubes on the condenser coil where leaves and debris have been allowed to accumulate causing the tubing to rot and leak.

You Can Search Our Site for More Troubleshooting Problems, Heating, Air Conditioning Parts, and Supplies in the Google Seach box below.

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Question: Is it OK to allow my HVAC contractor to by-pass my AC’s High-Pressures Switch?

AC high pressure safety switches

Question: Is it OK to allow my HVAC contractor to by-pass my air conditioning unit’s high-pressure switch? We have had several contractor call-backs because our unit continues to trip our high-pressure switch. This happens routinely, each summer. The latest incident, the technician came and reset the switch after noting that all pressure levels were good, coils clean, and no apparent blockages. The unit shut down again, about 30 minutes after he left.  The second technician came the following day, ran a full diagnostic of the furnace and air conditioning system, and reported that “sometimes these switches are just bad, and trip for no reason.”  He by-passed the high-pressure switch- after discussion, and he was concerned that it would happen again in short order. Now, I’m wondering whether to replace the high-pressure switch or leave it by-passed?  Old Lennox unit. (Pulse 21) The compressor has been replaced, the capacitor is new. I would be very interested in your opinion?

Answer: We have a post that explains why AC’s high-pressure switches trip sometime on the following page: https://arnoldservice.com/problem-my-outdoor-air-conditioning-units-high-pressure-switch-trips-ever-so-often-why-does-it-high-pressure-switch-trip-so-often/ Most of the time high-pressure switches trip because the condenser fan motor stops or is running too slow When the fan motor stops or runs slow the unit will produce high pressure and the unit will trip the high-pressure switch to protect the compressor from being damaged. This could be also caused by a restriction in your refrigeration cycle like dirt or moisture in the system. A bad TXV (thermal expansion valve) can also cause high-pressure switches to trip. Most contractors do not want to replace high-pressure switches because it is quite time-consuming and expensive for the homeowner. It is also not a good idea to open up the refrigeration system that exposes the system to air, dirt, and moisture. The worst enemies of the refrigeration system are air, dirt, and moisture.  In replacing a high-pressure switch the contractor would need to reclaim the refrigerant, cut the old, bad high-pressure switch out, and braze in a new high-pressure switch in. Install a new filter drier, test for leaks, evacuate the system for at least an hour with a vacuum pump then charge the system back up with refrigerant and test the operation. Yes! this is very time-consuming.  Hopefully, they installed filters driers and evacuated your system when they replaced your compressor. Any moisture in the system can freeze up after running a while then cause a restriction in the system and cause the high-pressure switch to go off. I would recommend that you keep a close eye and ear on your AC to make sure that the fan continues to run properly and you are not getting a restriction in your system. The unit will start sounding funny and will sound loud if the fan stops and if there is a restriction in your system. Your service tech needs to make sure that your AC system is not creating a high head pressure condition before bypassing the high-pressure switch. I would only recommend by-passing the high-pressure switch if your air conditioner is old over 15 years and the contractor is confident the problem is with the high-pressure switch and not some other problem in your AC system. If your unit is going off on high pressure then this will cause the compressor to overheat. The compressor is thermally protected and the thermal protection will cut the compressor off temporarily until the compressor cools down then the compressor will start again. The problem is that the thermal protection switch inside the compressor will only reset so many times. When the thermal protection switch is worn out then the compressor is bad and you would need to get a new compressor or a new air conditioning unit. I hope this helps in answering your question. Below we have a really good YouTube video on how high-pressure switches work and how to troubleshoot high-pressure switches. Thanks so very much to AC Service Tech LLC for making this video.  God Bless You and Your Family Today and Always! Steve

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Problem My Air Conditioner Is Not Cooling My House? 20 Reasons Why

troubleshooting air conditioners and heat pumps

Problem: We have many people ask us this general question, “Why is my air conditioner not cooling my house? I set my thermostat on 72 and our AC never reaches the 72-degree temperature!”

Answer: There are many reasons why your air conditioner or heat pump might not be cooling your home properly. We have a really good YouTube video made by Word of Advice TV that explains in detail 20 reasons why that an air conditioner or heat pump will not cool your home. Thanks so very much to Word of Advice TV for making this great video! I list the 20 reasons below, but the video does a much better job of explaining.

Here are the 20 reasons:

  1. Outdoor unit not running at all. Please click here to see how to troubleshoot when the AC will not come on at all. 
  2. The unit has a bad, weak, or dead capacitor. Please click here to see the new capacitors that we sell.
  3. The unit has a locked up compressor.  We sell compressor hard start boosters that might help free a locked up compressor on the following page: Please click here to see the compressor hard start boosters that we sell. 
  4. The unit has a bad condenser fan motor. We sell condenser fan motors on the following page: Please click here to see the condenser fan motors that we sell: 
  5. A dirty furnace or a dirty air handler filter. A dirty filter will restrict airflow and cause freeze-ups and other problems.
  6. A plugged or dirty evaporator coil. If the evaporator coil is dirty it will restrict airflow and cause freeze-ups. Many coils will accumulate dirt, lint and hair on the underside of the coil. The evaporator coil needs to be inspected and cleaned if dirty. Please click here if you are interested in some evaporator coil cleaner that we sell.
  7. A dirty outdoor condenser coil. If the outdoor coil is dirty it will cause the unit to run at high pressure and cooling will be greatly reduced! We need to have a clean condenser coil for the AC unit to be able to do its job and run properly. Please click here if you are interested in some condenser coil cleaner that we sell. 
  8. Dirty return grill. Make sure that your air conditioner return registers are not blocked with furniture, dirty, or lint.
  9. Bad or malfunctioning thermostat or thermostat batteries. Yes, make sure that the batteries are in good condition.
  10. Programmable thermostat problem where the programmable thermostat is not set to the right program. This makes you feel like the thermostat has a mind of its own or is haunted! Ha! To over-ride most programmable thermostats just push the “Hold” button and then the desired temperature that you want.
  11. The homeowner waits too long to turn the AC on and the AC can not catch up in cooling the home for a long time because the home started out too hot. For example, If a homeowner waits until the home gets to 85 degrees on a 95-degree day then it can cause the AC to run probably all day long and most of the night to cool the home down.
  12. The unit is low on Freon or refrigerant. Of course, the AC can not cool properly if the unit is low on refrigerant charge. You or a service tech would need to attach gauges and temp sensors to make sure that your unit is charged properly.
  13. Leaks in the ductwork can cause the air conditioner to not cool properly. We would suggest inspecting your ductwork to make sure there are no leaks in the ductwork. You may need to go into the attic, crawl space, or basement to inspect the ducts. We sell some really good foil duct tape on the following page: Please click here if you would like to see the duct tape that we recommend and sell.
  14. An under-sized unit can cause a unit to not cool properly. A Manual J heat gain and heat loss calculation should be completed before any air conditioning system is installed. The Manual J calculation will tell the homeowner how much heat is lost in the wintertime and how much heat is gained in the wintertime so the homeowner and contractor can install the right size furnace and air conditioner.  The Manual J calculations take into consideration many variables that are calculated on most of the time a computer program the contractor has. The Manual J calculation considers the number of windows, doors, what kind of windows and doors, the R values, the amount of insulation, which direction the home is facing, and whether or not the home is brick or vinyl siding.  This Manual J calculation is very important so that the homeowner knows he/she is getting the right size furnace and air conditioner.
  15. An Air to Air or HVR (heat vent recovery) system that is running all the time can cause a home to not cool properly. If you have an HVR system I would recommend making sure that it is running properly.
  16. Open window or doors. This is common sense to have windows and doors closed. Heat travels from hot to cold so if a door or window is open the outdoor heat will seak to enter a cool house.
  17. A bad air conditioning installation job or a hack job where the contactor or installer did not know what they were doing and did not install the AC system right.
  18. Bad zone controllers or bad dampers. Make sure that if you do have zone controllers and dampers that they are opening and closing properly. If you have a manually controlled damper like in the pictures below make sure that the dampers are open on all your duct runs so that air can circulate through the duct and into your home. Many times I will find that the dampers are loose and have become closed thus restricting airflow! On most round duct dampers if the handle is parallel with the duct run then the damper is open. If the handle is perpendicular with the duct run then the damper is closed.

19. A poorly vented attic where the roof vents are stopped up with insulation or are nonexistent. A poorly vented attic causes a tremendous build of heat that can be transferred into the homes living space. Make sure that the attic is vented properly.

20. A poorly insulated house can cause heat to enter and leave the home. Make sure that you have enough insulation in your home to stop so much heat gain in the summer and heat loss in the winter.

 

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How Do I Bypass My Thermostat to see if the Thermostat is Bad?

Problem: My air conditioner or furnace will not work. Is there a way to test the thermostat to see if the thermostat is the problem? Can I bypass my thermostat to see if the thermostat is bad?

Answer: We have this question asked many times. The first thing that I would like to suggest that you do would be to make sure that if your thermostat uses batteries to make sure the batteries are in good condition. Also, make sure that the power switch on the side of the furnace is turned on. We have seen many preventable service calls where all our customers had to do was flip the power switch on the side of the furnace! With the furnace door’s safety switch taped down and with the furnace’s power switch turned ON use a voltmeter set to “Volts AC” and test between R and C (com) terminals on the furnace’s control board. You should get 24 to 28 volts AC (alternating current) between R and C on your furnace’s or air handler’s control board. If you are not getting 24 volts AC then you might have a blown fuse on the control board/transformer or a burnt-out low voltage transformer. We sell low voltage transformers on the following page: Please click here to see the low voltage transformers we sell. 

If everything checks out on the low voltage side then you can test to see if the thermostat is at fault by bypassing the thermostat. Bypassing the thermostat is a great way to troubleshoot the thermostat to see if the thermostat is at fault. We have a really good YouTube video from Word of Advice TV that explains in detail how to bypass the thermostat to see if the thermostat is bad. Thanks so very much to Word of Advice TV for making this informative, excellent video. If you have any questions please email us anytime. Our email address is Support@arnoldservice.com  If you would like to comment then please feel free to comment in the comments section below. We Would Love to Help You Out and Earn Your Business! 

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10 Reasons Why AC Contactor is Not Pulling In

Bryant Carrier Air Conditioner Contactor

Problem: My air conditioner or heat pump contactor contacts will not pull down. If I press in on the contacts with an insulated screwdriver the unit will run just fine. When I quit pushing down manually with the screwdriver the contacts open and my AC shuts off!  What is causing the contactor to not pull down and start my air conditioner?

Answer: We have this question asked many times during the air conditioning season. There are at least 10 reasons why the contactor on an air conditioner or heat pump will not pull in. Below I listed the 10 reasons. We also have a great YouTube video made by Word of Advice TV that explains these 10 reasons in detail. Many thanks to Word of Advice TV for making this informative, excellent video! If you have any questions please email us anytime support@arnoldservice.com. We would love to help you out and earn your business! 

10 Reasons why the Air Conditioner Contactor is not pulling in: 

  1. The furnace power switch or the air handler breaker might be turned off. The furnace door might be loose and allowing the door safety switch to not be engaged. Make sure the furnace power switch is on and your furnace blower door is on tight.
  2. Make sure that your condensate pump safety switch has not tripped. Make sure that your condensate pump is working. If a condensate pump is not working then sometimes (if connected) the safety switch will go off and cause the entire AC system to shut down so that you do not get water damage in your home.
  3. You could have a bad thermostat or bad, loose thermostat wiring. Make sure that all your thermostat wires are good and tight.
  4. You could have bad wiring. I would recommend that you check all wiring to make sure that the insulation is good and there are no breaks in the wires. I have seen animals and weed eaters damage the thermostat wires and cause the fuse to blow on the control board or cause the low voltage transformer to burn up.
  5. You could have a bad 5-minute delay board. We sell some of these delay timers on the following page: Please click here if you would like to see some of the delay timers we sell. There are different makes and model timers, but they can go bad and cause the air conditioner to no come on.
  6. You could have a bad control board in the furnace or loose wires coming from the furnace control board.
  7. You could have a bad power saver switch that is installed by the electric company to control the time that your air conditioner is on in the summertime. There is a way to temporarily bypass this switch to see if this is the problem.
  8. You could have an open, tripped or bad HPS (High-Pressure Switch) LPS (Low-Pressure Switch).  If your unit is low on refrigerant charge then the low-pressure switch might be open or tripped. If your unit is dirty, over-charged, has a restriction in the system, or has a slow or broken fan motor (might need a new capacitor) then the high-pressure switch might be open or tripped.
  9. You might have a bad contactor. Either the contactor 24-volt coil can go bad, the contacts could be burnt or pitted or insects and dirty might get in between the contacts and cause the contactor to not work. We sell many different contactors on the following page: Please click here if you would like to see the contactors we sell. 
  10. You could have a bad low voltage transformer. Most of the time when a low voltage transformer is bad or burnt out it is caused by a low voltage short in the low voltage wiring. Most of the time it is in the low voltage thermostat wires where animals, weedeaters, or a breakdown of the insulation in the wires from being exposed to sunlight over the years. Check the thermostat wires for breaks, worn insulation, and grounding out where the wires travel through the furnace, air handler, or air conditioner’s frame. I have seen many ground out shorts and burnt out transformers caused by animals and worn wire insulation where the wires travel through the frame of the furnace, air handler, air conditioner, or heat pump unit.  We sell many low voltage transformers. Please click here if you would like to see the transformers that we sell. 

Below is an excellent YouTube Video that discusses these 10 reasons in detail. Thanks so very much to Word of Advice TV for making this great video!

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