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Air Conditioning Heat Pump troubleshooting questions with answers index

Below we have quick links to pages where air conditioning and heat pump problems and solutions are discussed for your quick reference.  We have lots of AC problems with answers!  We have lots of air conditioning questions with answers! We hope you find a quick solution to your problem! Special thanks are in order for the many people who took the time to do the YouTube videos that are included on our pages! I know that it is much easier for me to learn if I can see the problem and repair it through a video or picture! Near the bottom of each page, there is an area that allows you to comment or ask questions. If you have any questions please email us anytime. Our email address is Comments are welcome below. We would love to help you out, answer your questions, and earn your business! We hope you all have a great and blessed day! Steve & Barbara Arnold

One of my favorite quotes by David Jeremiah: “Nothing is more valuable than helping another person succeed!”

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61 thoughts on “Air Conditioning Heat Pump troubleshooting questions with answers index

  1. I have a heil heat pump that will not turn on when I turn on my heat but everything runs fine if I turn on my A/C. The capacitor and contactor both work flawlessly on A/C. When I run the heat on the thermostat the air handler will kick on but the outdoor unit never turns on. The air being blown out of the vents never warms up. I have been running my heat on and off for about a month with no issues prior to this. Any recommendations would be great its been a fun day trying to troubleshoot this! Thank you very much.

    1. Hi Robert! Sorry to hear that you are having trouble with your heat pump in the heating mode. I would like to suggest that when you have the thermostat turned up and the outdoor unit is not working that you go outside, pull the high voltage disconnect and see if the contactor is being energized with the contacts pulled down. If the contactor is not being energized then you have a low voltage problem. This problem could be in anything that is low voltage like the thermostat, thermostat wires, defrost control board, etc. The thermostat should be sending 24 to 28 volts AC between the Y and Com (C) connections on your control board or wiring. You would need to test with a voltmeter. If you are not getting 24 volts when the thermostat is calling for heat then you have a thermostat problem or a loose thermostat wire problem. Please do some testing and let me know if you have any more questions. I will be happy to try and answer. I hope you have a blessed day! Steve

      1. Hey Steve thank you for the very quick reply. I tested everything from the thermostat to the control board and the control board out spot that goes to the outside unit. I had 26.9v in everything up until my green wire out that goes to the outside unit this only had between 0-3v. I had 26.9v on the green wire in both my zone 1 and 2 on my control board. According to my guide y and g are both required to have 24v for 1st stage heating call. Could the green wire having only 0-3v have anything to do with why my condensor unit wont turn on for heat? I appreciate all the help once again you have been a life saver

      2. Hi Robert! Thanks so very much for your kind words. I am sorry, but I am not familiar with the wire color set up on your Heil Heat pump. Most of the time between Y (yellow) and C, COM are the two wires that should have 24 volts that energize the contactor when the thermostat is calling for the heat to be on. The W or W1 (usually a white wire) energizes your auxiliary heat like electric heat or gas heat. Most of the time the G green wire is used to energize and start the indoor fan blower motor. I can not advise you because I do not know how they have your heat pump wired from the thermostat, down to the air handler and on out to the outdoor unit. I am very sorry that I can not give you any advice on this. Steve

      3. I actually figured it out the supply air sensor went bad preventing the condensor from kicking on! Thank you so much for the assistance and putting me on the right track! This website is an outstanding resource and I will certainly be purchasing any parts I require from you in the future!

      4. Great Robert! So glad to hear that you found the problem! Thank you so very much for your kind words and support! God Bless You and Your Family Today and Always! Steve

  2. my wife and i just moved into a new house and its starting to get cold outside when we went to turn on the heat the carbon monoxide detector started going off we turned of the heat immediately.its the first time we have turned on the heat and just want to know if maybe we just have to let it run for a while then it will go away?

    1. Hi Jay! If the furnace had not been on after the summer and it produced smoke from the dust burning off the heat exchanger then this could cause the CO detector to go off. I would like to suggest that you open the doors and air your home out. Take the CO detector outside so it can reset. Then after an hour or so try the heat again and see if the detector goes off again. If the detector goes off again, then turn the furnace off and get an HVAC company to check the furnace out. I would also advise you to go to the furnace and make sure that the burners are burning a real good blue flame and make sure that the furnace is venting up the draft and not out into your home. If the furnace is not burning blue and not venting properly then do not use it and I would strongly suggest that you do not use the furnace until you have an HVAC company check the furnace out. This can be very dangerous and do not stay in your home with the furnace on if the CO detector is going off. God bless you and your family. Steve

  3. I am responsible for over 200 apartments and the HVAC units for all of them. This is such a great site. Though I do A\C units for a living, I learn from this site. Great work ! Thank You !

    1. Hi Jim! Thank you so much for all your kind words and knowledge input! I am sure that we can all learn lots from you! Your expertise and thoughts on topics are always welcome! Thanks so very much for taking your time to help others! Steve

  4. Hi have a York 14 seer heat pump runs greate all day and night on cooling I’m in Florida in the morning the indoor unit runs but not the out door unit while temp set to 70 degrees and indoor temp rises up to 76 or higher, turn off for couple minutes and runs good again why is this.

    1. Hi Ernest! I am sorry that I am not familiar with the new High-Efficiency heat pump units. I really have no idea why the outdoor unit is not coming on in the morning unless there is a temperature control thermostat inside the heat pump that will not allow the contactor to energize when the temperature is cool outside. If it was me I would recommend that you use a volt-meter to test between the Y (yellow) and C (common) thermostat wires. You should be getting 24 volts between these two wires when the thermostat is calling for cooling in the morning. If you are not getting 24 volts between the Y and C wires while the thermostat is calling for cooling then you have a thermostat problem. If you are getting 24 volts between these two wires then trace the voltage through the wires with a volt meter until you find where you stop getting the 24 volts. Where you stop getting the 24 volts is where the problem is located. I hope you can easily find and fix the problem. Steve

  5. My heat pump will turn on and run through one cycle: Turn on thermostat to “HEAT” – Heat pump starts and air handler starts blowing warm air until the room reaches thermostat setting – Heat pump stops – Air handler fan runs for a minute or so and turns off. Perfect. But then, the next time the room cools down to where the thermostat calls for heat, the air handler fan runs and the fan on the heat pump runs but there is no heat. The fan just keeps blowing room temp air and does not turn off. If I turn the thermostat to OFF and then back to HEAT again, it again runs through one cycle successfully. I thought maybe it was the contactor, so I replaced it but it did not fix the problem. What could cause this problem? Thanks for any help.

    1. Hi Kara! This could be a little difficult to troubleshoot. Heat pumps can be complex because of all the controls and wires. You say that the second time you turn the heat on the outdoor heat pump fan is running, but no heat is coming out of the registers. This leads me to believe that the outdoor fan is running, but the outdoor compressor is not running. The compressor running of course as you know would cause the heat to flow out of the registers. Some questions that I would need to ask you would be, How cold is it outside when this happens? because if it is below 30 degrees out some heat pumps do not heat very well at cold temperatures. Some manufacturers or installers install thermostats to cut the compressor off and just allow electric or supplemental heat to run when it gets really cold outside. Another question would be that have you tried the thermostat on emergency heat to see if the heat pump outdoor unit shuts off and you only run electric or supplemental heat? Another question would be, “Is the heat that is coming out of your registers produced by the outdoor heat pump or your supplemental electric heat? This could very well be a thermostat problem, but since you say that the outdoor unit is running I would think it would be a control board problem, like a defrost control board problem with the outdoor unit. Since you are getting heat some of the time the problem could be that your outdoor unit is low on charge or it is too cold out and you are only feeling the heat when your aux or supplementary heat is on? I do not understand why the compressor is not running when the outdoor fan is running. You might need to call in a professional to find out what is wrong. Sorry that I can not be much help. If you want me to look up parts please send your model number to our email address Hope you can find and fix the problem soon! Steve

  6. Totally confused on heat pump with Emergency Heat (propane). What actually controls the Emergency Heat to come on ?? I read that some thermostats (I’m running a Honeywell Lyric T-6 Pro) need a hard wired outdoor temp sensor; some articles say the heat pump senses when temps fall below the ‘lockout’ temp set so a separate outdoor temp sensor doesn’t seem necessary; other thermostats e.g. Rheem w/ Eco Net coordinates with heat pump but only certain models (mine is RP14, so not Red Link capable).
    What control Emergency Heat to come on ????

    1. Hi Vincent! Thanks for the question! I do not know much about the new thermostats because I have not been doing any service work since 2005, but I do not know how emergency heat was set up when I was doing installs and service on heat pump systems over 13 years ago. The emergency heat on the heat pumps that I installed were controlled by the thermostat and the customer had to switch the thermostat to the emergency heat position which would turn the outdoor heat pump completely off and rely on the emergency heat, in your case Propane heat to heat the home. Emergency heat should only be used in a situation where the heat pump outdoor unit was not working right or if the heat pump outdoor temperature stayed below 30 degrees for a long period of time (over 2 or 3 days). I would tell my customers if the outdoor temp stayed below 30 to turn the heat pump to emergency heat to save the heat pump outdoor unit from running all the time because the older units could not keep up with supplying enough heat when the temperature was below 30 degrees. I hear the new heat pumps are much better. On some installs, I would install an outdoor thermostat that I would set to 30 degrees which would kick the emergency heat in when the temperature got below 30 to help the heat pump heat the home. If an outdoor thermostat is installed then the customer does not have to switch to emergency heat manually on the thermostat. The emergency heat is energized most of the time through the E connection on the thermostat and most of the time the thermostat uses a black colored wire. So the thing that you would need to find out would be whether the heat pump that you have has an outdoor thermostat used to energize the emergency heat. I hope this helps you out. Hope you have a great day! Steve

  7. We replaced our heat pump and air exchanger for a Coleman. We live in a forested area with a tremendous amount of needles falling year round along with a lot of rain in the winter. Our system maintenance company suggested a Kool Cap to prevent build up. It worked well with our old unit and so we bought a new bigger one for the replacement. The maintenance tech said this model was a variable speed and when it blows on low it should raise the cap a good 10 to 12 inches, and if it doesn’t it could harm the heat pump. We observed at times it didn’t raise it that much and now are afraid to use it at all. Is what he said true?

    1. Hi Shari! I am sorry, but I would have to agree with the maintenance tech. You do not want to restrict any air flow on the outdoor unit. Restricted air flow by using the cap could damage the unit over time. Sorry for the bad news. Steve

  8. Will a heat pump always operate in heat mode no matter the temperature outside? If it is 85 degrees outside, 75 degrees inside the house, and you set your thermostat to 90 degrees will the heat pump operate? I am looking at a home and I ran the thermostat in heat mode and the heat pump did not kick on outside. I am sure it is a heat pump as I can see the reversing valve.

    1. Hi Brad! Most of the time heat pumps will operate in heat mode no matter what the temperature is outside, but some of the newer heat pumps have temperature controls that will not allow them to operate when it is above a certain temperature outside. You will need to look at the wiring diagram on the heat pump and see if it has an outdoor temperature sensor installed. I am very sorry that I can not give you a definite answer. I hope you have a great day! Steve

  9. Thank you for all ur advice, one can Learn so much!

    1. Thanks so much for your kind words! If you ever have any questions please let me know. Steve

  10. The heat in my sitting room is not working but bringing out cold air during the winter. What could be wrong? Or what are the alternative steps I should check in order to restore the heat to all parts of the home?

    1. Hi Solomon! I would suggest trying to inspect the duct work to see if any of the duct work is loose or not connected if possible. If all the duct work is connected properly you might need to insulate the duct work so that it is not picking up cold by not being insulated. You might need to have a contractor do a heat gain, heat loss calculation (Manual J calculation) on your home to see what the right size furnace and duct work should be to heat your home properly. A larger blower motor might help circulate the air to your home. I hope you can find and fix this problem before winter. Steve

  11. Hi Steve. I live in an apartment 1025 sq ft. 2 ton carrier system. 1/4 hp blower motor. We have a temperature drop of 17 to 22 degrees between intake and output. Problem is though we have a 7 to 12 degree creep up in temp whenever the outside temperature rises above 90 which well it’s Oklahoma. So to be expected that’s it’s over 90 everyday. Since my temperature drop is good. Would a 1/3 blower motor help me? Or do I need Whole new assembly for more airflow. ? Capacitor looks good and fan spins up instantly. I’m just tired of the AC running from 830 am to midnight everyday.

    1. Hi Kaitlyn! Sorry that your AC is running so much, but this is probably normal for a 2 ton air conditioner in a 1025 sq. ft. home on a 90 degree or above day. You want the air conditioner to run alot to remove humidity and if an air conditioner is sized right it will run lots on a hot day. The design temperature, the temperature that we use to size air conditioners here in Louisville, KY is 93 degrees. This means when the temperature is 93 or above the air conditioner is pretty much going to run all the time when sized properly. You might go with a 2 1/2 on the next AC installation. Your duct work would need to match the 2 1/2 ton air flow. I try to answer your question in the following post: I hope this answers your question. Thanks so much for asking the question! I hope you have a great and blessed day! Steve

  12. Hi Steve,
    We have a 2012 Trane Heat Pump system. We had a preventive maintenance visit today from a company new to us. (Our prior company of 15 years unfortunately just closed.) The tech said the A/C system is great, filters are being maintained, and that he was going to do routine maintenance – i.e. clean the coils, blower, and the compressor, which he did. I am observing the system tonight. It has “kicked on” 3 times in 1 hour, and run from 4-6 minutes per time. Is this normal? I am just wondering if this tech did everything properly? I may be overthinking it, because of dealing with a new company. Please let me know your thoughts. Thank you so much. God bless you.

    1. Hi Colleen! Thank you so very much for your question and your blessings! It is possible for a unit to cut off 3 times in one hour if (1) It is not real hot outside and your home is well insulated. (2) If your air conditioning system is too large for your home an air conditioner will cycle a lot. (3) If you have a thermostat that is real sensitive and set for 1 degree difference in being off and ON. Most thermostats have an adjustment where you can adjust for a larger temperature difference. (4) if you have a large heat gain caused by a leak in the duct work or poor windows, doors and insulation. (5) If you have a loose low voltage wire that is arcing causing the thermostat to not react properly. Make sure thermostat wire connections are tight. (6) low thermostat batteries. Make sure the thermostat batteries (if equipped) are in good condition. I hope that I have given you some things to look for in solving this problem if it is a problem. God bless you and your family today and always. Steve

  13. Steve, I have a Trane XR11 (model #2TWR1048A1000HB) my outside fan was running slow, stopping and making a loud noise/hum. The compressor is coming on. I replaced the capacitor, cleaned the fan shaft of debris (it did have some pine needles wrapped around it), and sprayed the shaft with some WD40 (hope that was OK). After doing all that the fan turned at normal speed and we had cool air (yahoo). However the cool air only lasted about 2 hours and the fan stopped again. I turned everything off and tested the fan turning the fan by hand and it seems to turn smoothly, nothing hanging up. Help!!!! what do I do now? I did play close attention to the wires and how they were hooked up on the old capacitor, so Also there is a small green light blinking that is located on the circuit board, not sure what that means.

    Thanks for any help,

    1. Hi Lana!
      This sounds like more than likely you have a fan motor going out. I am sorry, we do not sell the fan motor your unit uses. If your fan capacitor is good and the fan is getting 210 to 245 volts AC and the fan is not running then you can rest assure that you need a new fan motor. The next time the fan stops after running for a while I would suggest that you see if the motor is hot by barely touching the body of the motor. If the motor is hot then you probably need a new motor. I would suggest that you test the new capacitor to make sure it is good and not weak. If the capacitor is good then I would suggest a new motor. I hope you can easily find and fix the problem. Steve

      1. Steve, thank you for getting back with me. I did your test and yes the fan is hot so t looks like I need a new motor, however, in the process of testing the fan motor I now seem to have another problem. No cool air and the compressor does not come on. Do you think I destroyed the compressor trying to test the fan motor. The motor was very hot. Should I try your Super Booster to see if it would start? And if so and it works then comes the problem of where would I get a new fan motor since you said don’t carry my brand? Any suggestions would be very helpful.

        Thanks again and I loved/enjoyed your “God’s Gift To Us” page. Still have to listen/watch the videos.

      2. Hi Lana! Thank you so very much for your kind words. More than likely the compressor is out on thermal over-load and will need to cool down before it resets. Sometimes the cool down can take over-night. You might try to turn off the power to your unit and run a cold garden hose over the compressor to help speed up the cooling down process. If the fan motor stops it makes the compressor run high head and go off on internal over-load. Running without a fan is very hard on the compressor, but in most cases the compressor will reset after it cools down. I would strongly suggest that you get a new motor as soon as possible or either watch the unit while it runs to make sure the fan does not stop. As soon as the fan stops turn off the unit. I do not believe that you need the super-boost unless the compressor makes a uggg sound after it cools down. Our parts program shows that your unit uses MOT10479 if your unit model number is 2TWR1048A1000AB. If this is not your model number please let me know and I will make sure that your unit uses the MOT10479. I would suggest that you Google the part number and find someone who sells it online. I hope you have a great day and weekend! Steve

  14. I have a heat pump 2 heat 1 cool it can be 60 degrees out side and the auxiliary heat is on all the time ,with more than a 3 degree higher setting then room temp . Replaced thermostat Honeywell TH522od1029.same problem Aux on all the time

    1. Hi Dennis! You might want to check and make sure the installers did not install an outdoor thermostat that might be messing up everything. Some installers install outdoor thermostats that turn the aux. heat on at a set out door temperature which is usually around 30 degrees. If the defrost thermostat is stuck closed then this would cause a problem like you are experiencing. A shorted thermostat wire could also cause this problem because most certainly the aux heat should not be on all the time. I would suggest disconnecting the White (W1) and black W2 (emergency heat) wires until you find the problem. You might need to call Honeywell and ask them about what could be causing the problem with the thermostat. There is a good Youtube video on heat pump thermostat wiring on the following page: I hope this will help you find and fix the problem. Steve

  15. I have an int comfort unit that has a bad check value. The repairman stated in order to replace the value he has to remove the r-22 and replace it is this necessary ?

    1. Hi! If your repairman has to cut into the refrigeration system to replace the check valve then yes, he will need to reclaim the R-22. He should be able to reclaim the R22 and reinstall it back into your unit so he should not have to charge you for the refrigerant other than the reclaiming fee and any extra refrigerant he has to replace. I hope you get this fixed without too much expense. Steve

  16. I have a Goettl, roof-mounted heat pump. Recently the blower motor/fan destroyed themselves. I took the blower unit in and had the motor/fan replaced but upon installing the unit, it will not function. No heat is produced and the blower does not come on. I am a fairly handy person but there are so many different switches and relays I feel like I am chasing my tail. Can you offer any guidance?

    1. Hi Sean! I am very sorry, but I do not know anything about Goettl roof-mounted heat pumps. If I was trying to troubleshoot your unit I would start at the fan motor and trace the wires back to the control that starts the fan motor. I would check voltages at this control and see if 220 to 245 volts were being sent to the fan motor when the thermostat is calling for cooling. If the power is going into the control and not going out to the fan motor then this is where the problem is. Sorry that I can not be more help. This is what I found when I Googled the subject on troubleshooting Goettl heat pumps: I hope you can easily find and fix the problem. Steve

  17. I just had a heat pump installed in my home. There are seperate inside units for upstairs and downstairs. The intake fans for both units draw air from the house 24/7, even when there is no need for heat to be produced (like when heat is set at 60 and room temperature is 70). Is this normal?

    1. Hi Clyde! No sir, this is not normal. You should be able to set your thermostats on “Fan Auto” and the indoor blower fans should cycle off and on with the need for heat or cooling. I would suggest calling the company who installed the heat pumps and explain your problem. I hope you can get this taken care of because I know your home probably feels drafty with the fans running all the time. Steve

  18. I have a Trane heat pump TWG model – it cools fine – when the fan engages inside it tries to start, tries again (up to 8 times) before it actually engages and runs – my AC friend says motor may be going? I thought relay? any ideas? you can imagine it sounds like someone manually turning on and off a (fan) several times before leaving it alone to actually run… I’m concerned about fire hazards and excess power usage.

    1. Hi Suz! I would suggest that you check the blower motor run capacitor to make sure it is in good shape first. More than likely you will need a new motor. I would also like to suggest that you test the voltage going to the motor. If you are getting a constant 210 to 245 volts AC coming from the control board or relay to the blower motor and the motor is still going off and on then it is a blower motor problem. If the voltage is going up and down then you probably have a control board or fan relay problem. If you have a thermostat with batteries please make sure the batteries are in good condition. The thermostat through the green “G” connection controls the fan motor. If you want me to look up parts then please send me your air handler’s model number. I hope you can easily find and fix the problem. Steve

  19. I have a Carrier Puron and am having trouble with cooling. We set the temp to 68 in the summer but the heatpump will only cool to 77 then go up to 78. What could be causing this?

    1. Hi Keith!
      Most of the time when an air conditioner does not cool properly it is caused by the unit being low on refrigerant charge. I would suggest that you get a tech out to check the charge in your system. Dirty filters, a slow blower motor (make sure capacitor is good) and a dirty condensing unit can all cause poor cooling. I hope you can easily find and fix the problem. Steve

  20. I had a Luxaire 3 ton unit installed in August of 2014. Immediately in the heating season the unit would turn on in heat mode but immediately (after 3-5 minutes) switch to auxiliary heat (ie: electric backup). This is suburban Philadelphia, but this problem was occurring even in mild external temps (ie: +40 degrees). I called the installation contractor and the distributor but got not satisfaction until the summer of 2015 when the Distributor Rep and the Installation guy showed up, spent about 1.5 hours at the house and said that maybe it was the thermostat. I questioned this as the installation included a new thermostat. Well fast forward another 6 months and another astronomically expensive heating season. I continued complaining and finally got a second visit from the Distributor and the contractor. Another 1.5 hour diagnostics at the house and they concluded that nothing was wrong. That maybe the unit was quickly switching to aux heat due to it being undersized for the house. Huh ? they had recommended the 3 ton unit for my 2500 sf. I then started seeing news of wide spread TVX valve problems through out the industry. Never once did the contractor or the Distributor Rep mention this as a potential problem. Does the problem I am having suggest a TVX problem ? A/C works fine . Just heating.

    1. Hi Tom! I would not recommend a heat pump this far north in Philadelphia because of the many days that you have below 30 degrees in the winter time. No, this problem should not occur with temperatures above 40 degrees. I would agree that a 3 ton unit on a 2500 square foot home is a little small unless you have real good insulation and windows. The contractor should have performed a heat gain, heat loss calculation on your home before installing the heat pump. A heat loss, heat gain calculation is required by code enforcement here in Kentucky before a permit will be issued. Most of the time aux heat is controlled by the thermostat. If you have a real good thermostat you should be able to control the temperature difference that the 2nd stage aux heat kicks by doing some thermostat adjustments. Some of the cheaper thermostats are set to switch to aux heat by run time. My daughter had one that was set to switch to aux heat if after 10 minutes of run time in heat pump mode the heat pump mode does not satisfy the need for heat. After 10 minutes both heat pump and aux (electric heat) kick in. Yes, some manufacturers have been having problems with TXV valves. I would think this would affect the system in both heating and cooling mode. Attaching and reading the gauges in heating mode during the winter time would be able to tell you if the TXV is working properly in the heating mode. I would suggest that when you have mild temperatures 40 or above that you disconnect the W2 wire (aux heat wire) at the thermostat and see if your heat pump can maintain your set thermostat temperature by using the heat pump only. This would tell you if you have a thermostat problem or a heat pump problem. A good contractor who knows how to troubleshoot heat pumps should be able to quickly see if you have a problem or not. I hope you can find and fix the problem easily and inexpensively.

  21. I have a goodman heatpump splitsystem mod. no. msg18hrn1w problem: heat works good in auto but when you drop temp to cool the inside unit runs but the outside stops both fan and compressor Its a small unit the evaporator is mounted on inside wall for a sun room

    1. I tried to answer you through your email address, but it would not work. I wanted to send you a parts list. I am sorry, but I am not familiar with the goodman mini split system units so it would be a guess as to what the problem is. This could be a thermostat problem or a control board problem. I am sorry that I can not advise you how to troubleshoot this. I would suggest that you call someone who is familiar with Goodman mini-split systems. Steve

  22. Morning my heat pump when I put my heat pump on cool heat come on

    1. Hi Brenton! This sounds like you have a stuck reversing valve, a stuck sequencer which is turning on the electric aux heat or a thermostat that is malfunctioning. A shorted thermostat wire can cause this problem also. I would suggest that you call a tech in to troubleshoot and find out what the problem is. Steve

  23. Hello and thank you for this very informative site to provide information to those with HVAC problems.

    We have a York Affinity heat pump that has had the identical problem at the commencement of the past two winters — one electrical lead connected to the inside heating coil has overheated and on the first occasion had burned off the connector. This involved replacement of the heating coil relay and when that did not completely resolve the problem, the control board was also replaced as it was felt by the technican that one of the two relays on the circuit board were at fault. The pump did work throughout the winter but the auxilary heat and/or emergency heat did not seem to function properly at times but we made it through without anymore expensive repairs.

    Yesterday the same thing happened. The unmistakable smell of overheated/burned electrical insulation permeated the house and all power was shut down on the unit. Once again the identical lead insulation was melted two inches back from the connection on the small heating coil relay and the relay’s plastic housing around the wire connection point was melted and deformed. It is obvious too much amperage was drawn and the circuit breaker did not trip however.

    I was fortunate to have two technicians attend and they worked for several hours to repair the existing wiring and replace the relay. This work did not solve the problem as things commenced to heat up once again on testing the unit.

    The company owner visited today and completely rewired all existing circuits from the thermostat to the control circuit board and double-checked all wiring connections. Several hours later, the breakers were thrown and after a few minutes, the electrical odour commenced once again. All are at a loss to explain why the circuit is drawing an overload and they are conferring with York to ascertain if their wiring schematics are correct for this unit and thermostat.

    In the meantime, could it be the circuit breaker itself located on the front panel. I think the initial failure may have damaged internal contacts or whatever inside the breaker which in turn may be causing the failure even if the electrical wiring connections are top notch. Much more if this and I’ll be bankrupt. Winter is just getting underway here.

    Thanks for any advice re: this trouble.

    1. Hi David! I am very sorry to hear that your are having all these problems with your York Affinity furnace! I always attribute any wire burning to arcing or loose connections in the air handler or furnace. Yes, you are correct in believing that the breaker with pitted contacts can cause heat, high amperage draw and burn out other connections in the furnace. I would suggest that you listen and feel the outside of the breaker when the electric heat is on. Many times I could actually hear (in a quiet house) the breaker arcing on the inside and feel the breaker getting warm on the outside. I hope by replacing the breaker and making sure all connections are good and tight that this will eliminate your problem. Thank you so much for posting this! Maybe we have an electrician or other HVAC tech who can comment and help solve this problem. Steve

      1. I would suggest looking at your Busbar . This is inside your junction box and is what your breaker snaps into . Look for pitting and discoloration.

  24. Been using MERV 4 synthetic filters in my Goodman system and they never got dirty. Changed them every other month just as a matter of habit, but now my evaporator coil has to be cleaned or replaced. A/C service technician says the evaporator coil was dirty because of dirty filters, but yet they were never dirty and changed regularly. Are the filters just too low efficiency to block out the dust that collected on the coil and should I upgrade to pleated filters?

    1. Hi Bob!
      I would suggest upgrading to at least a merv 8 filter. Yes, pleated filters should be much better. I would also recommend that you check to make sure air can not by-pass the filter and go up into your furnace without being filtered air. Thank you so much for asking this question. Steve

  25. i bought a new coleman control board for my heat pump in the fan is only running for 3 min than cut off

    1. Hi Deena!
      If the condenser, outdoor fan only runs for 3 minutes and cuts off then I would first look to see if the contactor is staying engaged/energized or not. If the contactor is engaged and the fan cuts off then you probably either have a weak fan motor capacitor or a fan motor that is going out. When the motor cuts off I would suggest turning off the power to your unit then lightly touching the fan motor to see if it is hot. If the motor is hot then you might either have a weak capacitor or a bearing or winding in the motor that is going out. Best of luck in finding and fixing the problem. Steve

  26. Have a goodman heat pump the inside unit has stopped working could drain be backed up and float switch have it shut off I haven’t been to diagnose just trying to figure out what could cause it any other ideas other the blower motor burnt up

    1. Hi Dustin! Yes, if you have a condensate pump with a safety switch then this could cause your heat pump to cut off. I would suggest that you use the following air conditioner, heat pump flow chart to trouble shoot your problem: I hope you can easily find and fix the problem. Steve

  27. We have a lennox air conditioning heat pump. I have just replaced start up capitor. The fan outside and inside will kick on but the compressor won’t in gaged. Unless I go out and water the unit down and then it will kick on. It will run sometimes for 3 hours and then kick off and come right back on in about 10 minutes. At that point sometimes the compressor will come on by itself. I will run normal at night. This only happens during the day. Can you please help. I’m tired of calling repair company to come out and they 20 minutes and it’s never fix. Thank you

    1. Hi!

      Good morning! Sorry to hear you are having trouble with your AC unit! This sounds like a high pressure or over-heating problem because you said that after you water the unit down it will kick on. Here is a link to one of our pages that discuss the high pressure problem: Your unit might be dirty of over-charged with refrigerant. The company that came out should have cleaned your coil and checked your unit’s refrigerant charge. An over-charge of refrigerant or an under-charge can cause a unit to act as you are describing. The next time your unit shuts off like this, please turn the power off to the unit and lightly touch the top of the compressor to see if it is hot. If it is hot then you have a low or high refrigerant problem and this needs to be corrected. Also another cause would be if the outdoor fan kicks off in the middle of a cycle this will cause the compressor to over-heat and the high pressure switch to trip thus causing the unit to shut off and not come on until the pressure is reduced by watering down the unit. If your outdoor condenser fan seems to be running slow or shuts off during a cycle you will need to get this fixed. Best of luck in finding and fixing the problem. We have lots of troubleshooting advice on the following page: I hope you have a great day!
      Steve Arnold,

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