Welcome to Our Air Conditioning Problem
Troubleshooting Page!
This page contains some Air Conditioning
problems and parts that I use to repair the problems. I see these problems most often every summer in our 16 year HVAC business. Let us
help you repair your air conditioner and save money!
Hello Everyone! We Hope All of You Have A Happy, Healthful
& Prosperous 2009!
*Summer
Air Conditioning Tip: Always turn your air conditioning system off if
there is a threat of a storm. A lightning power surge, or if the power is goes
off and on can ruin your air conditioning system. We get lots of repair calls
after a storm. These calls could be prevented if people could remember to turn
their
air conditioners off during a storm.
Below are listed the parts that I see
go out most often. We even have one device that will help try to start your
compressor if it is locked up called "Super Boost!"
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Listed below are many of the air conditioning problems that I
see on a daily basis with my HVAC company her in Louisville, Kentucky. I wanted
to list some of the problems and give you a chance to purchase the parts, and
repair your air conditioner yourself.
Please see the section near the bottom
of this page, "What to Check for If Your Air Conditioning System is not
Working." I try to give step-by-step procedures on how to troubleshoot
your air conditioning system.
Please always, make sure
all electrical power is turned off before attempting to do any heating or air conditioning
repairs. Please read our disclaimer and "Safety First" related
information near the bottom of this page. Thank You!
Problem #1:
Outdoor condensing fan motor has stopped running. This problem could be caused
by a bad motor run capacitor. Please see our Run Capacitor Page to purchase a
new capacitor. Here is a link to our capacitor page: Please
click here for Motor Run Capacitors. If your motor capacitor is not the
problem, then more than likely you need a new motor. Is the fan blade tight,
stiff or hard to turn? If the fan blade is hard to turn then you probably need a
new motor.
Problem #2: Air conditioner compressor
will not start. When power is applied to the air conditioning outdoor unit the
fan starts, but you hear a sound like the compressor is trying to start, "UGGG"...,
for about 5 to 10 seconds and then all you hear is the outdoor condenser fan
run. The compressor is locked and will not start. What is happening is the
compressor is trying to start, but because the compressor motor is locked it tries to start for
a few seconds and then because of the high amperage being drawn goes off on
internal overload. The internal overload protects the compressor windings from
overheating and burning up. I see this many times during
the start of the air conditioning season. Some compressors just have a hard time
starting after sitting all winter long. Some compressors are locked up so bad
that I can not start them and must tell my customer that they need a new
compressor or new air conditioning system. Many times I can get the compressor
started again without having to buy a new compressor or new air conditioning
system by using the device that I sell below. It is called,
"Super-Boost." I keep two or three of these on the truck. They have
saved many of my customers from having to buy new air conditioning systems.
Below is a description of the "Super Boost" with an opportunity for
you to purchase.
The Super-Boost could save you from
having to purchase a new air conditioning compressor or system!
The Supco, Super-Boost has the following
features that make it a life saver when it comes to air conditioning repair:
 |
The Supco can save stuck compressor
by increasing the compressor's starting torque by 500%.
|
|
The Supco, Super-Boost is a solid
state relay and hard start capacitor no loose parts or complicated wiring.
Just wire it across your run capacitor as shown below.
|
On
dual capacitor systems just connect between the "C" and
"Herm" terminals. Please see picture below:
More
Features:
|
The
Super-Boost can be used on all PSC single phase 115 volt thru 288 volt air
conditioning units from 4,000 to 120,000 BTU.
|
|
It
can be used on a wide range of air conditioning compressors from 4,000 BTU
window units to 10 ton commercial units.
|
|
The
Supco Super Boost is used for tight or locked compressors, if you have low
voltage, or for quick recycling of the compressor.
|
Below
are pictures with an opportunity to purchase. Thank You!
Problem
#3: This problem
is probably the second most common problem that I see every summer. The problem
is a bad compressor or fan run capacitor. The Air conditioner outdoor unit
will not come on. Either the outdoor fan does not run, the compressor does not
run, or both the fan and the compressor do not run. You checked and reset your
breaker and the outdoor unit still does not come on. You can hear a little
humming sound, sometimes a "Uggg" inside the unit when power is
applied. The "Uggg" is the compressor trying to start. You might hear
the low voltage contactor humming. You
pull the disconnect and disconnect the power to your outdoor air conditioning
unit. Please make sure your electrical power is off
before working on any air conditioning equipment.
You take the door or cover off your outdoor unit's control box and find a bad,
swollen run capacitor. EPA stopped allowing manufacturers to produce capacitors
with cancer causing PCB's. Since they stopped allowing the use of PCB's the
capacitors now have a shelf life. Many times I see capacitor problems that will
not allow the compressor or the fan to come
on. Many times you can clearly see
that the capacitor is bad because it is swollen or even blown apart with
capacitor oil everywhere! Sometimes you need a special meter to test the microfarad
(MFD) rating. Most of the time you can tell the capacitor is bad because it is swollen up. Please see the picture below for the comparison between a good
and bad dual run capacitor. We call them, "Dual" because the capacitor helps run
both the fan and the compressor.
Bad
round dual capacitor on the left. Bad oval
capacitor on the left. Good oval
Good round capacitor on the right. capacitor on the right.
Solution:
You need to purchase a new capacitor. We have many different types of capacitors
listed on our Run Capacitors Page
We
would love to have your business!
There are so many
different types and sizes of capacitors that I have them listed on another page.
We will be adding more capacitors as time goes on. Here is a link to our Capacitor
Page with an opportunity to purchase Capacitors:
Contactor Problems:
Problem #4: Air Conditioning outdoor
condensing unit or heat pump unit will not shut off. It continues to run no
matter what you do. The only way you can get the outdoor unit to shut off
is turn off the breaker or pull the outdoor disconnect. Also,
sometimes when the contactor fails the outdoor condensing unit will not come on
at all. Dirt or insects (I see ants many times) can get in between the contact points while the
contactor is off, and cause the air conditioner not to come on at all.
When the contactor is stuck in the "On" position (contacts welded
together), Ice will form on the indoor evaporator coil and all the way out to
the outdoor unit. I have seen 1 or 2 inches of ice form on the line set and
outdoor unit compressor. You will not get hardly any air flow through your duct
work when this happens because the evaporator has become a complete block of
ice. If this is your problem then your contactor points could be stuck,
welded together causing the outdoor unit to run continuously. Many times when
ants or insects get between the contactor points the outdoor unit will run
(burns the insect out), but because of the uneven wear (arcing) in the contact
points the contactor will soon fail. Arcing causes a tremendous heat build up
and pitting of the contact points. If you are in an area of the country where
insects are prominent in and around air conditions, then I would suggest you
blow your contactor out with compressed air or check and make sure you do not
have any insects in between the contactor points at the beginning of each
cooling season. You might want to keep a spare contactor on hand?
If your contactor looks like the single pole contactor below,
with burnt or pitted contacts then you need a new contactor. The picture below
is a single pole contactor out of a Rheem air conditioner.
Solution: You need to solve this problem
by purchasing a new contactor. We sell them on the following page:
Please click here to go to our contactors page.
Contactor's Purpose:
The contactor has a 24 volt relay, when this 24 volt relay is energized from the
thermostat, a call for cooling, the contacts on the contactor close, making a
high voltage (220-240) connection to your compressor and outdoor fan, causing
the outdoor unit to come on. There are several types of contactors that we sell.
They are sold on the following page: Please Click Here
to Go to Our Contactors Page. *Please
make sure your electrical power is off before attempting to remove or work on
air conditioning equipment. Before changing out a
contactor or working on an air conditioner please make sure you pull the outdoor
disconnect or indoor breaker that controls the air conditioner. Turn the furnace
off or thermostat off so no low voltage is going through the low voltage wiring.
Term-Lok Compressor Terminal Repair Kit Model TLC-3-10:
Problem #5: Compressor will not run. First, you
turn off the power to the air conditioning system. Second you remove the
compressor terminal cover and find that one or two of the compressor terminals
have burned completely off. Yes! that is why the compressor is not running!
Solution: Remove the old burnt
terminal/terminals, and use the "Term-Lok" compressor terminal repair
kit to replace the burnt terminals and wires.
The "Term-Lok" compressor terminal repair
kit is one of my favorite items to have on the truck during the summer time. The
"Term-Lok" compressor terminal repair kit has saved many of my
customers from having to purchase new compressors or air conditioning systems. I
see many, many burnt compressor terminals during the course of the summer. Many
contractors will tell their customers, "You need a new compressor or new
air conditioning unit." Most of the time this is not true! All you need to
do is use the "Term-Lok" kit to repair the compressor terminals and
you are back in business for a long, long time. Before I found out about
the "Term Lok" compressor terminal repair kit I would try to solder
the terminals on using a soldering gun. I found out the hard way that the solder would
not hold but for a
short period of time. Before long, I would get a call again, "My air
conditioner is not working." I would go look at the compressor
terminals, and there again, one of the terminals or terminal was burnt
completely off again. I could not believe it! Since I have started using
the "Term-Lok" repair kit, I have not had one call back for burnt
compressor terminals! This new Term-Lok compressor terminal repair kit is not
cheap, but it is much better than having to get a new compressor or air
conditioning system. This compressor terminal kit costs $40.00. I figure the kit
is so expensive because of the brass terminal connectors and the way they have
permanently connected the #10 gauge wires. What I really like about
this kit is that it lasts! No more burnt compressor terminals! The kit is called
"Term-Lok" because it actually locks the wires to each compressor
terminal. You use a small Allen key wrench to tighten or lock the solid brass
terminals to the compressor terminal stubs. There is an Allen screw that can be
placed in either the bottom or top of the brass terminal. This makes the installation
easy. If there is 1/4 inch left on the compressor terminal studs, then you can
use the terminal lock kit to fix your compressor. Be prepared for the hot summer
and have a compressor "Term-Lok" terminal repair kit on hand.
Please click on the "Add to Cart" button below to purchase using a
secure VeriSign or PayPal server. Thank You!
Above is a Close-up of the three brass terminals with Allen wrench and screws.
Above is a picture of the entire kit. The wires are 36"
long #10 Gauge wire
Above are some pictures taken of the label:
Below is a picture of the Installation Instructions. Please
click on the thumbnail below if you would like to read the instructions. Please
click on your browser's "<" back button when finished reading to
return to this page. We would love to have your business!
International Refrigeration Products Low Voltage Universal Transformer
#TFM4031:
Problem #6: Nothing
works on your heating & air conditioning system. The fan will not blow in
the fan "ON" position. The gas burners will not light, the outdoor air
conditioning
unit will not come on.
Solution: Use a
Volt Ohm meter, set the meter to "Volts AC," to check and see if you
are getting between 24-28 volts between your "C" and "R"
terminals on your low voltage board, or between "R" the red low
voltage thermostat wire and ground. You might have to tape the blower door
safety switch, to keep the voltage on so you can perform this test. Turn your
power back OFF after completing this test using the Volt meter. Check for fuses
on the furnace control board to see if the furnace has a low voltage protection
fuse. If the furnace has a fuse pull the fuse out and see if it is blown. If the
fuse is blown check all your low voltage wiring to make sure it is not grounding
out anywhere. I have seen pinched wires that are stuck between furnace doors,
animals that have chewed through wires and just weathered low voltage wiring
that has lost its insulation due to the hot sun over the years. Any wires that
are touching together can cause the low voltage fuse to blow. The fuse protects
the expensive furnace control board from getting burned up because of a short to
ground. If the fuse is blown then I would go to the local hardware and purchase
5 to 6 new fuses. If you do not find the problem that is causing the fuse to
blow right away then you will need more than one fuse for testing. If your fuse
is OK or your furnace does not have a fuse, and you are not getting low voltage
between the "C" and "R" terminals then you might need a low
voltage transformer. I have seen some of the transformers just go bad. Below I
explain the job of a transformer. We have pictures of the JARD Magnetics
transformer with an opportunity for you to purchase.
What is a Low Voltage
Transformer? The job of a low voltage transformer is to take 110 volts AC
on the primary end, and transform or lower the voltage to 24 volts on the
secondary end. That is why on the transformer label, below it has
"PRI" 120, 208, 240 and SEC 24V 40VA. The transformer that we sell can
be used with multiple voltages either 120 volts, 208 volts or 240 volts. You
would hook up the right color coded wire to use the voltage that you have. The
color coded voltage wiring directions are on top of the transformer. For
example: The white and black wires would be used for 120 volts for most
furnaces. The White and Orange wire would be hooked up if you were using the
transformer to replace a bad transformer on an outdoor air conditioner or heat
pump that uses 240 volts.
Prevent
Your Air Conditioner or Heat Pump from Cycling Off and On too much with a
Delay On Make Timer. Beacon Model TDOM:
This Beacon Delay on make timer replaces the following timers:
ICM102B, EAC700, EAC701, TD69, 3310-06, 3239, 32367, IC-310, IC-213, & AC-800.
Problem
#7- You might consider purchasing and installing the following device
if:
1.
You have to reset your air conditioning circuit breaker often.
2.
If you have electrical storms where the power is going off and on. I
have many calls after electrical storms. Please always turn your air
conditioner off during a storm.
3.
If the power goes off and on often in your home. If the power goes off
and on often in your home then this can ruin a compressor. When your
air conditioner is turned off you should wait at least 3 to 5 minutes
before you turn it back on. If you do not wait the 3 to 5 minutes then
this causes a tremendous strain on the compressor motor because the
motor is trying to start without the pressures being equalized. Please
give your compressor and air conditioning system time for the pressures
to equalize before starting your air conditioner again.
4.
If you have children living in your home, renters, or other people who
do not understand that you should wait 3 to 5 minutes before cycling
and air conditioner off and on.
Solution:
Purchase a delay on make timer pictured below. You can set this timer to the
length of time you want to wait for the air conditioner to come back on from .03
of a second to 10 minutes. What
this timer does is delay the amount of time you want your air conditioner to
come on when low voltage power is applied to the timer. This
low voltage timer is simple to install. *Some of the new thermostats have this
delay feature built into them. If you have a thermostat that has this delay
feature, then you do not need to purchase the Delay On Make Timer pictured
below. If you want to protect your air conditioning system from short cycling
and possible compressor damage, then the Delay on Make timer is for you! Please
remember to turn off all power when working on air conditioning equipment.
Below
are pictures of the timer with an opportunity for you to purchase:
 
Below we have thumbnail pictures with installation instructions, wiring diagram,
mode of operation & specifications. Please click on your browser's "<" button to
return to our site. We would love to have your business!
Prevent
Refrigerant Leaks With A
Box of 10 Model
#JB NFT5-4 Quick Seal Schrader Valve Caps:
Problem
#8- Air conditioner is freezing up. You see frost or ice on the suction line
(black insulated line) Any areas that are not insulated are covered with ice.
You are not getting hardly any air flow out of your registers. Your evaporator
coil is iced up completely. Most of the time this is caused by being low on
refrigerant charge. There are other causes such as:
1.
Dirty air filter or some air flow restriction.
2.
Dirty blower
3.
Slow or dragging blower motor (might need a new capacitor).
4.
Dirty stopped up Evaporator coil (Need to have HVAC tech clean coil)
5.
Long Air conditioning run times. Setting thermostat below 72 degrees
with cool
outside conditions.
6.
A stuck contactor that keeps the outdoor unit running even when the
indoor
blower is not running or when the thermostat is calling for
cooling. We sell
contactors above.
Most
of the time a freeze up condition is caused by a low refrigerant charge.
Since the air conditioning system is supposed to be
a leak free, sealed system this means you have a leak somewhere. I use the
Schrader valve caps sold below to make sure that I do not have a leak in the
Schrader valves when I take my manifold gauges off. I install these Schrader caps for insurance, because I have
seen leaks in these valves many times. These caps have a rubber seal inside of
them and insure a leak proof seal.
Below
are some pictures with an opportunity for you to purchase:
Above,
Schrader Caps Installed
on
an outdoor AC
unit.
Above
Schrader caps in box ready
to
ship. They come in a box of 10.
More
on refrigeration leak detection:
I
have other leak detection tools such as an alarm type electronic leak detector,
$215.00 and a UV black light leak detection system $550.00. I think that finding
refrigerant leaks is the hardest job any HVAC technician has to do. With the new
EPA rules and regulations it is a must to find the leak and stop it, or I can
face a huge fine. First, you visually look for refrigeration oil spots. This is
a sure sign of a bad leak. If I can not visually see the leak I use my
electronic leak detector, and if that doesn't work I inject a bottle of
florescent leak detection solution into the system let it circulate and try to
search for the leak with a black light. The leak with show up bright yellow when
the UV light hits it. The UV black light leak detection system needs to be done
in low light conditions. Sometimes I ask the customer to come back after dark to
find the leak or I crawl under a tarp to block the sun light out. This is really
fun when it is 90 plus degrees out! Wow! You talk about hot! It is really cool and rewarding when you see that bright yellow
leak shining back at you! You can show the customer exactly where the leak is
too, but sometimes you have hidden areas that even the light can not detect.
About 90% of the time it is the indoor evaporator coil leaking. It must be poor
coil construction, added to the expansion and contraction of the metal during
the heating and cooling seasons that cause these coils to leak. I replace on the
average about 20 evaporator coils a summer! Some of these coil are only two to
three years old. I can't believe it! It is just poor construction. I would like
to recommend that you get a warranty of at least 5 years on your air
conditioning system that would include the indoor evaporator coil. Many times
the coils are only warranted for one year. Thanks for reading my frustrations
with finding refrigerant leaks. I hope that you do not end up with one of those
leaking, out of warranty evaporator coils that I see every summer! God bless you
and your family.
What
to Check for If Your Air Conditioning System is not Working:
1.
Check the circuit breaker to make sure the breaker has not tripped. The breaker
would probably be a double pole 30, 40 or 50 amp breaker. Even though the
breaker looks like it is on I would still flip it all the way to off and back on
again just to make sure. Sometimes one leg of a double pole breaker will hold in
the other leg and make the breaker appear to look like it is, "ON"
when it has actually been tripped.
2.
Make sure your thermostat is turned down to a temperature that will allow the
air conditioning system to come on. Sorry! I hope I did not insult your
intelligence! I want to try to cover everything! I have been on several service
calls when not having the thermostat turned down far enough was the only
problem. If your thermostat has the little levers on it then it would not hurt
to flip the little lever from "OFF" to "COOL". On several
service calls I have seen all that it takes is a flip of this little lever on
the thermostat. Sometimes the contacts in the thermostat do not make the
connection and flipping the levers will reestablish the connection. I would turn
your fan to the "ON" position. Did the fan come on? If the fan did not
come on check the switch on the side of your furnace to make sure it has not
been turned to "OFF". Make sure your filter access door and furnace
door are secure. Many of the furnaces have a switch activated door for your
safety. When the door is not completely on the furnace will not operation. This
keeps the furnace from coming on when someone is servicing the blower or
filter.
3.
If your outdoor unit is running listen to determine if the fan is the only thing
running or is the compressor running too?
4.
Turn off your electrical power to the outdoor unit by pulling the disconnect
switch or turn off the indoor circuit breaker. Take the screws off your air
conditioner control access panel. Check with a multi-meter
to make sure the power is actually off. Touch the top of the compressor.
Is the compressor very hot? If the compressor is hot then the compressor could
be out on thermal over-load. You need to wait and let the compressor cool down
before you test your system again. Sometimes I use water from a hose and gently
let it run over the compressor to cool it down quickly. Sometimes it can take 2
or 3 hours for a compressor to cool down. After it has cooled down reapply
power. Did the compressor start? Did the fan start? If the fan did not start
with the compressor then this is why the compressor over heated. Check your fan
motor and fan run capacitor to make sure the fan blade is free and the capacitor
is in good shape. You can check the fan bearings by spinning the blade by hand
the blade should continue to spin 3 to 5 seconds after you spin it. If it
doesn't then you probably need a new fan motor. Another reason the
compressor over heated could be that the system is low on refrigerant. Is the
suction line (the line with the black insulation) cold like a cold coke can
right out of the refrigerator after the unit runs for 10 to 15 minutes. If it is
not cold, then you need to add some refrigerant. The refrigerant is what keeps
the compressor running cool. If the system is low on refrigerant then you do not
get the cool gas coming back to keep the compressor running cool. The compressor
over heats, and this will eventually melt the windings down in the compressor
and contaminant the whole refrigeration system! This is not good. Eventually the
compressor will ground out and you will need a new compressor or new system.
Please make sure that suction line is cold or you might be low on refrigerant
charge. You will need to call a service technician to charge up your system if
it is low. Now EPA require that you be licensed and certified to purchase and
use refrigerants.
5.
Inspect your wiring to make sure that you do not have any burnt connections.
Repair the burnt connections if you have some.
6.
Inspect the capacitor/capacitors to see if they are swollen looking. If they are
swollen purchase a new capacitor from our capacitor page. Click
here for Our Run Capacitors Page.
7.
Take the compressor terminal cover off and inspect the terminals on the
compressor. Sometimes the compressor terminal cover can be a bear to take off. I
use a screw driver to release the metal clip that holds the cover on. Sometimes
the cover slides off. Sometimes the terminals unplug from the compressor. If any
of the compressor terminals are burnt then you could probably use our Term-Lok
compressor terminal repair kit to repair the terminals. Please see Term-Lok
compressor terminal repair kit above on this page.
8.
Inspect your contactor. Is your contactors points look burnt? You might need to
purchase a contactor that we have listed above on this page.
9.
When you plug in the disconnect and apply power to your outdoor unit does the
fan start and the compressor try to start, but make a "UGGGG" sound.
This means the compressor is locked up. The compressor is an electric motor,
enclosed in a case, with a piston similar to what you would find in a car. When
you hear that "UGGG" sound it is telling you that the piston is
locked up. We need to try to unlock the piston. If we can not unlock the piston
then you need a new compressor or air conditioning system. You might want
to purchase a Super-Boost hard start capacitor. I have used this device to save
many a compressor. The Super-Boost is also listed above on this page. If
you purchase and hook-up the hard start capacitor and the compressor still will
not start then I am afraid you will need a new compressor or system. I say,
"System" instead of just outdoor unit because it is recommended that
you change both the outdoor unit and the indoor evaporator coil when you install
a new system. Manufacturer's say that it will damage the outdoor unit if you do
not change the evaporator coil too.
Best
of luck! I hope this has helped you to trouble-shoot and repair your air
conditioner! I hope you can get your air conditioner up and running again soon!
I admire you for trying to repair your air conditioner yourself. Please be
careful and make sure the power is turned off and you do not get cut on those
sharp sheet-metal edges. Just take your time and think things out step-by-step.
God bless you and your family.
Sincerely,
Steve Arnold, President,
Arnold's
Service Company, Inc.
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Please
Remember Safety First
Please
read our disclaimer and safety related information below before attempting to do any
type
of Heating
or Air Conditioning Repair. We do not want to see anyone get hurt or
shocked! Thank You!
*Please always turn off all electrical
power, and discharge the capacitor/capacitors (if working around capacitors) before attempting to inspect or repair any heating & air conditioning
equipment. Check to make sure the electrical power is off with a reliable meter. I have never
been shocked by a capacitor (knock on wood) and rarely see them discharge, but
it is a good idea to discharge them before working around them. Please read
below. It tells you how to discharge a capacitor.
 
Please read the following:
How To Discharge The High Voltage
Capacitor: The capacitor is discharged
by creating a short circuit (direct connection) between the two capacitor
terminals and from each terminal to chassis ground (bare metal surface).
Please make sure that you are touching the insulated screw driver handle and not
the metal part of the screw driver before attempting this procedure.
-
Do this by touching the blade of an insulated-handled screw driver to
one terminal, then slide it toward the other terminal until it makes contact
and hold it there for a few seconds. ( Sometimes
this can result in a rather
"pop!")
Repeat the procedure to create a short between each capacitor terminal and
chassis ground.
If the capacitor has three terminals, use the same procedure to create a
short circuit between each terminal and then from each terminal to ground.
Disclaimer:
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Inc. assumes no liability for any incidental, consequential or other liability
from the use of this information. All risks and damages, incidental or
otherwise, arising from the use or misuse of the information contained herein
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has been taken in the preparation of this website information, we assume no
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Thanks for visiting Arnold's Service
Company's Website!
Please visit our
Favorite Christian Websites page.
On this page we have a list of our
Favorite Christian Websites. This page is intended to remind you of the eternal promises that are
found in God's Holy Word and of God's never ending love for you.
I try to read from some of these websites early each morning. It helps me get
the day started out on the right track. I hope you enjoy these websites as much as I have!
God Bless you all.
Sincerely,
Steve & Barbara Arnold
11506 Seatonville Road
Louisville, KY. 40291
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We
Sell Heating, Air Conditioning Parts & Supplies To You At Low Wholesale Prices!