Welcome to Our Popular HVAC Questions & Answers Page!Hello Everyone! We Hope All of You Have A Happy, Healthful & Prosperous Holiday Season!Our site is closed on Sunday to observe the Sabbath.On this page I have listed some popular questions with answers that our customer's have asked us in their emails. I hope this will help answer some of your questions about air conditioning. This page was started the Summer of 2005 so most of the questions are about air conditioning. More questions and answer will be coming soon. Thanks for visiting our website!
Why I am not getting 24 volts to the contactor? Where does the 24 volts come from?
Above picture of a transformer: Hi! The 24 volts comes from the transformer. Most of the time the transformer is located inside the furnace, although sometimes (about 10%) it is located inside the outdoor AC unit. The transformer produces the 24 volts which goes up to your thermostat then out to your air conditioning unit. You should probably try to turn the thermostat down so the air conditioner is supposed to be coming on. Pull your high voltage disconnect so there isn't a chance of you getting shocked. Test and see if you are getting 24 volts straight out of the thermostat wires that come into your outdoor AC unit. If you are getting 24 volts then one of your safety controls on your air conditioner is not allowing the contactor to kick in. A lot of the times air conditioning units have low pressure (low refrigerant) switches on them. If you do not have enough Freon (refrigerant) in the system it will not allow the unit to come on. If you aren't getting 24 volts straight out of the thermostat wires, then you have a thermostat or wiring problem. Best of luck! Steve Arnold, www.arnoldservice.com
My Air conditioner's contactor will not engage. I am not getting 24 volts to the contactor to make it engage? What could be the problem? Yes, if the contactor is not getting the 24 volts then it could be a time delay relay (if unit is equipped), thermostat problem, transformer, safety control (low refrigerate) or wiring problem. I would suggest checking your connections and testing the controls with a meter.
Will a larger blower motor help my air conditioning? My air conditioner does not seem to be blowing very hard. Hi! Thanks for your interest in our web site! I would check your refrigerant charge first because if your system is low on charge it will cause the coil to freeze up and cause a restriction in the air flow. Rule of thumb is the blower should produce 440 CFM (cubic feet per minute) of air per ton. On a two ton system 880 cfm. This usually calculates out to about a 1/4 to 1/3 HP blower motor. If you get too much cfm it is hard on the air conditioner, because it robs the air conditioner of the cool gas going back to the compressor to keep it running cool and you have to over-charge the unit to get the cool gas going back to the compressor. I usually need to add refrigerant to a system that has too large of a blower motor. You want to charge your system so that there is cool gas going back to the compressor and the suction line feels like a cold coke can right out of the refrigerator. The air conditioner should make a 15 to 20 degree difference in the ambient air. If you home is 75 degrees inside the air coming out of the registers should be between 55 to 60. I hope I have answered you question. I have oversized blowers before to get more airflow. I would not recommend going over 1/3 horsepower in your case. You would need to check the charge after you install the new motor to make sure you are getting the needed cool gas back to the compressor. I would check to make sure your blower wheel (squirrel cage) is clean and the bottom of your evaporator coil to make sure it is clean before trying a larger motor. Thanks, Steve Arnold, www.arnoldservice.com
Tricks for removing a condensing unit fan blade. Sometimes these things are real hard to get off. Most of the time they are easy to get off using the method below. I use this method all the time. Sand the existing shaft with sand cloth to remove the rust if any of the shaft is sticking up out of the hub. Use WD40 on shaft and lock nut. Loosen lock nut on blade. If the lock nut is stubborn and will not come loose, hit the top of the blade hub a few times lightly with a hammer to help the WD40 vibrate into the threads. If the lock nut or allen screw will still not come loose then you might need to apply some heat with a torch. Cut the existing motor shaft off using an electric hack saw (SawsAll) or hack saw. It is tough going using a hand driven hack saw. Once you have the shaft cut off from the motor. Take the blade and lay it down on some concrete. Take a deep well socket 2" to 3" deep and position the socket underneath the hub on the fan blade and on the concrete. Take a hammer and drive the shaft out. When the shaft gets down below the top of the hub use a 3/8" extension to drive the shaft out of the hub. If you mushroom the top of the shaft you might need to drive the shaft back out from the other end a little bit and use a metal file to file away the mushroomed metal so the shaft can be driven out of the hub. Best of luck! This should work. Hope you have a nice day! Steve Arnold, www.arnoldservice.com
What causes poor air flow in a system? Hi! Thanks for your interest in our web site! A dirty filter, blower wheel, stopped up evaporator coil, and a dragging motor can cause poor air flow. I would have your evaporator coil and blower wheel checked to make sure they are clean. Check the capacitor on the blower motor to make sure it is reading up to par. If you do not have a capacitor tester then you would need to purchase a new capacitor to see if it is the capacitor. Make sure your system is fully charged with refrigerant. A system that is low on charge will cause a freeze up condition and block air flow through the evaporator coil. To identify which capacitor you need you would need to turn off your power and take the capacitor loose and try to read the specs on the capacitor. Here is a link to our page: Click here: Capacitors I can't guarantee this is your problem, but it could be. Best of luck!
What could be causing my indoor coil to freeze up? Hi! Freeze ups are caused most of the time by a low refrigerant charge. Before you call someone to check the charge on your system I would make sure the filter is clean. Freeze ups can also be caused by a dirty blower wheel, dragging motor (might need a new capacitor) or a dirty evaporator coil ( might need cleaning on the under side). Most of the time it is low on charge. Yes, you can turn the air conditioner back on, but make sure the larger line is good and cold going back into the outdoor unit. You will need to possibly get under the black insulation and feel the bare copper line. After the unit runs for 10 to 15 minutes the line should feel like a cold coke can right out of the refrigerator. If it doesn't then you are low on charge and need to get a technician to find the leak and charge it up as quick as possible. It is very hard on the compressor to run without enough refrigerate. Best of luck! Steve Arnold, www.arnoldservice.com
Why is water leaking on my floor with the air conditioner on? Hi! Thanks for your kind words & interest in our web site! Most of the time when there is water on the floor it is caused by a stopped up condensate line. I use a wet vac to suck the line and try to open it up, or if this does not do it I use compressed nitrogen or air. Sometimes water leaking on the floor is caused by a freeze-up condition in the evaporator coil. The freeze up condition can be caused by a low refrigerant charge or poor air flow (a dragging blower motor, dirty filter, or dirty evaporator coil). Another reason that is see leaks on the floor is caused by a rusted out evaporator coil drain pan. This would be the worst because it involves taking out the evaporator coil and replacing the pan or purchasing a whole new evaporator coil. I hope your evaporator pan doesn't have a hole in it. Best of luck! Steve Arnold, www.arnoldservice.com
I pulled the high voltage disconnect on my outdoor unit. Why am I still getting a low humming sound?Hi! The low humming sound is probably from your low voltage power still on. The hum could probably be the contactor or reversing valve on a heat pump being energized. The low voltage power transformer is usually located on the indoor furnace or air handler. I would suggest turning the power off to the furnace or air handler. Usually there is a switch on the side of the furnace to do this. On an air handler there are usually breakers or a disconnect. The low voltage will not hurt you, but if you accidentally touch a low voltage wire and ground it out then you might damage your board or blow a low voltage fuse on the board. Best of luck on finding your problem. Steve Arnold, www.arnoldservice.com
My AC will not start when using my generator. Will a compressor super boost help start my AC powered by a generator? Hi! Thanks for your interest in our web site! I have this question asked many times. I could not guarantee this would solve your problem, but I know a lot of people use them to help start an air conditioner when being powered by a generator. We have many people purchase the compressor hard start boosters to be used for this purpose. I would recommend the SPP6 located on the following page: Click here: Compressor Hard Start Boosters Steve Arnold, www.arnoldservice.com
Please help me understand what this warning means on my AC:
"Warning...never stop the cooling system by shutting off the main power.
If the main power to your air conditioner is ever disconnected for more
than three hours, turn off the thermostat. Then wait for at least three
more hours after the power has been restored before turning the
thermostat back on. Failure to follow this procedure could result in
damage to your air conditioning system" Hi! Yes sir, I know exactly what you are talking about on the warning not to turn your air conditioner on for 3 hours after the power has been off for more than 3 hours. This is a manufacturer's warning and quiet honestly not many people abide by it. The warning is there to prevent the compressor from possible valve damage that could occur if any liquid refrigerant has migrated, and is sitting inside the compressor. The compressor is made to pump a gas, not a liquid, and if any liquid refrigerant has migrated into the compressor during the power off period, then when the compressor is started back up the compressor could try to pump the liquid refrigerant and bend the valves, thus ruining the compressor. Many of the compressors have heaters in them, either external or internal that boil the liquid refrigerant off when power is restored. They recommend waiting three hours to make sure all the liquid refrigerant is boiled off. Most people do not abide by this, but if you want to make sure you do not damage your compressor it would be a good idea to wait the 3 hours. I hope you have a nice day! I also hope that you and your family have a Happy, Healthful and Prosperous 2005! God bless you and your family. Sincerely, Steve Arnold, www.arnoldservice.com
I ran our heat pump, air conditioner all night and it did great, but when I went outside this morning the unit was making this buzzing/humming sound. It still works correctly, but it makes that humming noise even when the unit is not running. In other words when the thermostat has the unit in the off mode it makes the noise, but when the temperature in the house rises and the thermostat turns the unit on everything is fine. (Does this make any sense?)
Hi!
Many heat pumps have a reversing valve solenoid that is
energized (24 volts AC) all the time in the cooling mode. This reversing
valve solenoid is energized whether the unit is running or not. If the
solenoid is getting old, or if the solenoid is out of alignment, or
loose then the buzzing, humming sound will occur. Try to switch your
thermostat to the heating mode and see if the hum is still present. If
the hum is still present then you might have a noisy outdoor
transformer. If the noise is so loud that it is bothersome then you may
need to replace the reversing valve solenoid or transformer.
Another thing I forgot to mention. You might want to test your transformer and make sure you are getting 24 to 28 volts AC out of the secondary on the transformer. If the transformer is producing low voltage (under 24 volts) then this would cause a loud humming, vibrating sound. Best of luck in finding the problem. Please make sure all the power is turned off before testing or inspecting your air conditioning parts. I would not want to see you get hurt or shocked. Hope you have a great day! God bless you and your family. Steve Arnold, www.arnoldservice.com
I purchased a new programmable thermostat. My thermostat wiring only has only three wires. The thermostat instructions call for a red power wire, a yellow, green and white wire. My three wire colors are White, Yellow and Green. How do I wire this thermostat up? Thanks for your interest in our web site! Please always mark the wires with tape or labels as to which terminal they were connected to on the old thermostat. I will be able to help you better. Do you have both heating and cooling? Most thermostats have a Red wire that is the power wire that usually connects to R & RC terminals of the thermostat, a Green wire that energizes the Fan relay, connected to the "G" terminal on the stat, a Yellow wire that energizes the outdoor unit's contactor, if you have air conditioning using the "Y" terminal, and a white wire that energizes the gas valve or oil burner when you need heat connected to the "W" terminal. The thermostat acts as a switch, like a light switch. Red to white switch turns on the heat. Red to Green turns on the fan, Red to Yellow turns on the air conditioner. The main question would be do you have air conditioning? One of the wires almost has to be the hot wire. The color might not be red, but maybe they, the installer, used another color for the hot wire. You would need to look at your low voltage transformer, trace the wire down that is coming out of the transformer to determine the color. Best of luck! Hope you have a nice day! God bless you and your family. Steve Arnold, www.arnoldservice.com
My 24 volt transformer continues to burn up. This is the second transformer. What could be the problem? Hi! Thanks for your interest in our web site! Yes sir, I have encountered this problem several times. Most of the time it ends up blowing the fuse on the board if you have one, instead of the transformer. I usually suspect the thermostat wires as the problem, but other devices with coils and electronics can cause the problem. I had a reversing valve coil cause this problem one time. Most of the time it is in the wiring. This is a pain and time consuming, but in order to find the problem I would turn off all the power, take all the low voltage thermostat wires loose from the thermostat, air handler, and outdoor unit. I would take a digital meter set to ohms and check between all the wires with the meter. You should not get a reading between any two wires if the wires are in good shape. If the wires are good you would need to test the components from each wire or terminal to ground. The meter should not move. This is a pain sometimes finding the problem. Many times I would find the problem where the wires were installed going through the furnace body. The vibration of the furnace or air handler over time had torn through the wire insulation and caused a short. Sometime animals will chew through the wires and cause a short. Sometimes sun light on the wires over time will rot the insulation and short out the wires. Best of luck! I hope you can easily find the problem.
I changed out my control board and my furnace blower motor continues to run constantly. Even if I disconnect the thermostat wires it continues to run the blower. The only way I can shut the blower off is to turn the power to the furnace off. What could be the problem?
Hi!
Many furnaces (Bryant & Carrier) when first powered on will run the
blower for a minute or two then shut off. This is a safety function of
the furnace to eliminate any heat that is in the heat exchanger before
the furnace begins its heating cycle. If your blower is running all the
time... I would suggest that you test your limit control and roll-out
switches to make sure they are not open. I have some pictures of limit
controls and roll-out switches below. If a rollout switch or limit is
open then the furnace thinks it has over-heated and the control board
makes the blower run all the time. You would need to test these with a
meter to make sure they are not open. Is your control board flashing a
blink code? If it is blinking a fault code, try to read what the code
says the problem is. The fault code key is usually located on the
furnace door. Best of luck in finding the problem. Hope you have a nice
day!
Steve, www.arnoldservice.com
I installed the new capacitor
and the boost cap I received. Now the outdoor fan will start
briefly but the compressor does not.
The power management box on the
side of the house shuts off power in less than a second.
Thanks for your business & interest in our web site! This sounds like you have a grounded out compressor since you say the breaker box is shutting down almost immediately when the air conditioner is turned on. I would suggest turning off your power to the unit, remove the 3 wires that go into the compressor, this would require removing the compressor terminal cover box, then testing the three terminals with a meter to see if the windings are grounded out. If they are grounded out you will need a new unit or compressor. To test you would set your meter to OHMs. You would touch one end of your test lead to a good ground like a copper pipe on your air conditioner. Then touch each of the three terminals one at a time to each of the compressor terminals (Start, Run & Common). You should not get any kind of reading on your meter. If you do the compressor is grounded out. Hope you find the problem. I hope you have a nice day! I also hope that you and your family have a Happy, Healthful and Prosperous New Year 2006! God bless you and your family. Sincerely, Steve Arnold, www.arnoldservice.com
I forgot how to wire up the dual round capacitor that I purchased from you. How do I go about wiring it up so it doesn't blow the capacitor up again? Thanks for your interest in our web site! You would need to look at the wiring diagram that came with the unit. Usually the wiring diagram is glued to one of the panels on the air conditioner. Hope you can read it. Rule of thumb on wiring the capacitor is: Herm on capacitor goes to the start winding on the compressor, Fan on capacitor goes to brown fan wire that goes to the fan, and Com on the capacitor comes off one leg of the contactor to provide power to the capacitor. There are usually more than one wire connected to the Com terminal. The Com terminal is used so other components of the air conditioner can steal power off the Com connection. Best of luck! I hope you have a nice day! I also hope that you and your family have a Happy, Healthful and Prosperous 2006! God bless you and your family. Sincerely, Steve Arnold, www.arnoldservice.com
My air conditioning unit blows the circuit breaker after it runs for a while. What could be the problem? Would a super-boost compressor hard start booster help? Thanks for your interest in our web site! I would check and see if the outside of your breaker is getting warm after the unit runs a while (20 minutes or more). If the breaker is warm on the outside, it could be arcing in the breaker and causing the breaker to trip after a while. You might need a new breaker. This could also be a tight compressor and if this is the problem then, yes, the super boost could possibly help. It looks like you have a 4 ton unit so I would recommend the SPP6 or SPP8E. Please make sure your unit is charged up properly by feeling the larger copper pipe (suction line) while the unit is running. You will need to get your fingers on it underneath the insullation. The unit should have run for 15 minutes or more. The copper line should feel like a cold coke can right out of the refrigerator if the unit is charged proper. If it doesn't feel real cold then you are probably low on charge. Being low on charge will burn a compressor up faster than anything. Do not purchase the super boost if you already have a hard start capacitor installed. Some units come with them from the factory. Best of luck! Thanks for the opportunity to do business with you! I hope you have a nice day! I also hope that you and your family have a Happy, Healthful and Prosperous 2006! God bless you and your family. Sincerely, Steve Arnold, www.arnoldservice.com
Why does a motor or compressor need a capacitor to run properly? What actually does a capacitor do? Thanks for your interest in our web site! Great question! On alternating current (AC) the current alternates on the voltage from zero to 110 or from zero to 220 volts 60 cycles per second. The run capacitor throws a stored charge in there when the voltage reaches the zero point and keeps the voltage steady instead of all the up and down voltage drops. This makes the motor or compressor run smoothly and more efficient. This is easily seen on an old ocilliscope where you can see the AC current going up and down. 60 cycles per second is pretty durn fast! It is amazing! I hope this answers your question. Hope you have a nice day! Sincerely, Steve Arnold, www.arnoldservice.com
I own several rental properties. I am having a problem with moisture buildup in my pressure tubes on my 80% furnaces. The tubes stop up with water and the furnaces shut down. Here is how I eliminated this problem: Hi, I'm responding to this very old email response from you. FYI, regarding moisture buildup in pressure tubes, I simply moved the pressure switch above where the tube connects to the inducer and the moisture problem went away (on both Goodman & Rheem furnaces).
Thought you'd be interested. I'm
from Portland OR where the humidity is fairly high in the winter...
This customer was kind enough to share with me how he repaired his Bryant Carrier 3 Wire pilot burner. This customer had installed a new 3 wire pilot burner, then decided to clean the old 3 wire pilot burner to see if he could get it working. Sure enough he got it working again after 20 years of service!
FYI - Without making any
adjustments to the Gas Flow, I noticed on the new 3 wire pilot
burner, that more of the pilot flame appeared to be striking the
switch plate when the blower kicked in. So I re-installed
it after performing the below maintenance and it too worked
again. However, I figured 20 years of service was good enough
and retired the old one with the new one.
It looked like the blower
kicking in was stealing enough of the pilot flame away from the
strike plate to cause it to cut in and out.
Thanks again for your attention
and service.
Much appreciated.
Alan
I purchased a flame sensor from you hoping this would solve my furnace lock-out problem. My furnace still locks out occasionally. I have to reset the power switch before it will start up again. Thanks so much for your business! I am sorry to hear that you are still having problems. I try to help people out by giving them the easiest and least expensive solutions to their problems that I have seen over the years in my HVAC business. Sometimes other components, parts can cause problems. Sounds like you have an occasional problem that is going to be hard to find because it only does it sometime. You almost have to be there when the problem occurs with a meter to test and find out what the problem is. Many times the furnace control board will give you a flash code telling what the problem might be. I would suggest if your furnace is equipped with a control board that has a flash code that you read the code the next time the problem occurs. This problem could be a safety control problem (pressure switch, limit switch) or a control board problem. Best of luck in finding the problem. I hope you have a nice day! I also hope that you and your family have a Happy, Healthful and Prosperous 2007! God bless you and your family. Sincerely, Steve Arnold, www.arnoldservice.com
Hi - Great web site.
My outside AC unit is humming but no
fan or compressor action. Sounds like AC problem #1, capacitors. I'd
like to buy replacement capacitors but they are round. Can I use
oval caps with the same rating? Can I leave them loose since the
brackets are for round caps?
I need the following:
qty 1 40 uF / 440 V
(round) No 40 / 440 on your website. Can I use a higher
cap single below?
45
MFD 440 Volt Oval Run Capacitor Price $22.00 Each
qty 1 5 uF / 370 V (round) You have 5 MFD 370 Volt Oval Run Capacitor Price $8.00 Each Finally, can I replace the two caps with a single dual cap? 40/5 MFD 440 Volt Dual Oval Run Capacitor Price $30.00 each? Thanks for your kind words and interest in our web site! Since your fan and compressor are not running I would like to suggest that you test the line voltage with a meter to see if you have 220 to 245 volts on L1 and L2 of your contactor. Another question is: Are the contacts on your contactor closing when your air conditioner is calling for cooling? You should be getting 24 to 28 volts to your contactor's coil when your thermostat is calling for cooling. If your contactor is closing and you are getting voltage 220 to 245 volts through the contactor then this could be a capacitor problem. If you understand the electrical wiring it would be the easiest to purchase a dual 40/5 MFD 440 volt dual capacitor. There are three connections on a dual capacitor. Com, Herm, & Fan. Common (COM) on the capacitor would come from your power source usually from the contactor. Herm connection would go to the start winding on your compressor, Fan would go to the fan, usually a brown wire. If you are not accustomed to doing the wiring then I would suggest sticking with the same capacitor. It is not recommended to replace a 40 MFD capacitor with a 45 MFD capacitor. I am going to add a 40 MFD, 440 volt capacitor to our site this morning if you want to purchase the 40 MFD 440. Here is a link to our site: Click here: Capacitors Since you have round capacitors (nice pictures) and the ones we sell are all oval you would need to make a mounting strap out of plumber's pipe strap. I can send you some of the pipe strap in the order if you will say, "Pipe Strap" in the comments section of our cart. You would need to secure the capacitors so the wire terminals do not touch anything metal or each other. I usually tape the connections on top of the capacitor with electrical tape and secure the capacitors to the frame with plumber's pipe strap. Make sure you do not drill through your condenser coil. Thanks for the opportunity to do business with you! I hope you have a nice day! I also hope that you and your family have a Happy, Healthful and Prosperous Summer! God bless you and your family. Sincerely, Steve Arnold, www.arnoldservice.com
Hi! I've purchased from you before, and love your website. I remember reading somewhere on your sight about lights dimming on A/C start-up. My lights are starting to dim more this year and last vs. when I put in my Bryant unit about 5 years ago. Is this the starter capacitor, you think? Where on your sight do you sell the replacements if this would be the main culprit? Thanks in advance.
Thanks for your continued interest and support in our web site! Lights dimming on air conditioner start up can be caused by several things: 1: Circuit breaker going bad. See if you breaker is getting warm by touching the outside of the breaker after your air conditioner has run for a while. If the breaker is warm then you have arcing inside the breaker and need a new breaker. 2. Loose wiring. After turning off the power and checking to make sure the power is off with a volt meter. Make sure all wire connections are good and tight from the breaker through the air conditioners contactor to the Compressor terminal wires. Loose connects cause high amperage and can cause lights to dim. 3. Capacitors going bad or getting weak. Test capacitors with a capacitor tester. We sell capacitors on the following page: 4. Compressor getting tight. Compressors that are worn can become tight and hard to start. A compressor hard start booster might help this situation. We sell compressor hard start boosters on the following page: Click here: Compressor Hard Start Boosters 5. Low voltage from your house. You should be getting at least 220 to 245 volts to your air conditioner. Call your electric company supplier or a licensed electrician if you voltage is low. I have tried to cover a few of the things that can cause lights to dim when your air conditioner comes on. Thanks for the opportunity to do business with you! I hope you have a nice day! I also hope that you and your family have a Happy, Healthful and Prosperous Summer! God bless you and your family. Sincerely, Steve Arnold, www.arnoldservice.com
My outdoor air conditioning unit's high pressure switch trips ever so often. Why does it high pressure switch trip so often? Thanks for your interest in our web site! The high pressure switch tripping can be caused by several things: 1. Dirty outdoor coil. Turn off power and clean with a garden hose. 2. Slow or dragging fan motor. Replace motor or capacitor. I would need to know the capacitor specs to recommend a replacement. 3. Motor or fan blade going the wrong direction. Air should come out of the top of your unit. 4. System over-charged with refrigerant. 5. Faulty high pressure switch tripping without having high pressure. High pressure switches are usually set to trip at a little over 300 psi. Sometimes I have seen switches trip for no reason at all. 6. Extreme high outdoor temperatures above 100 degrees. Your outdoor unit has to be clean to run properly under high outdoor temperatures. Best of luck in finding the problem. Thanks for the opportunity to do business with you! I hope you have a nice day! I also hope that you and your family have a Happy, Healthful and Prosperous Holiday Season! God bless you and your family. Sincerely, Steve Arnold, www.arnoldservice.com
Pressure Switch Problem: I recently purchased a pressure switch for my Carrier furnace, HK06NB124. According to all the material and research this was the correct one for my furnace, but I continue to get the same pressure switch code problem. Is the pressure switch faulty or do I have another problem? Hi! Thanks so much for your business! From my experience over the years most of the time the pressure switch is not the problem. I have found that the draft inducer, hole going into the draft inducer, the venting of the furnace, and since your furnace has a drain the drain could be partially stopped up. If the drain is not draining properly this will cause the pressure switch to shut the furnace down. If any of the drain hoses have holes in them or are stopped up this will cause the pressure switch to shut the furnace down. Improper venting (too many turns and distance) can cause pressure switch problems. Debris (junk) obstructions inside the vent can cause problems. I hope you can easily find the problem. I hope you have a nice day! I also hope that you and your family have a Happy, Healthful and Prosperous New Year 2008! God bless you and your family. Sincerely, Steve Arnold, www.arnoldservice.com
I purchased a flame sensor from you for my Goodman furnace. The new flame sensor did not fix the problem. My furnace still lights for 7 to 10 seconds and then the gas goes out. What could be the problem? Hi! Thanks so much for your continued business & support! Since your furnace is still having what sounds like flame sensing problems I would suggest making sure the flame sensor is positioned in the flame where it is getting a good blue flame to sense. I would suggest checking all connections to make sure they are tight (especially the ground connection on the transformer). Check your plug in connection that goes between the blower section and burner section of your furnace. Check wire and flame sensor connections to make sure they are tight. I would recommend checking all rollout switches, limit switch and pressure switch to make sure it is closed (current flowing through) them all the time. This could be a control board problem again, not sensing the flame. We have some troubleshooting tips on the following page: Click here: Troubleshooting Heating Problems I hope you can easily find the problem. I hope you have a nice day! I also hope that you and your family have a Happy, Healthful and Prosperous Fall Season! God bless you and your family. Sincerely, Steve Arnold, www.arnoldservice.com Did you find what you need? You may use Google to search our site or the Web:
Please Remember Safety First
Please read our disclaimer and safety related information below before attempting to do any type of Heating or Air Conditioning Repair. We do not want to see anyone get hurt or shocked!Thank You!*Please always turn off all electrical power, and discharge the capacitor/capacitors (if working around capacitors) before attempting to inspect or repair any heating & air conditioning equipment. Check to make sure the electrical power is off with a reliable meter. I have never been shocked by a capacitor (knock on wood) and rarely see them discharge, but it is a good idea to discharge them before working around them. Please read below. It tells you how to discharge a capacitor.
Please read the following:How To Discharge The High Voltage Capacitor: The capacitor is discharged by creating a short circuit (direct connection) between the two capacitor terminals and from each terminal to chassis ground (bare metal surface). Please make sure that you are touching the insulated screw driver handle and not the metal part of the screw driver before attempting this procedure.
Repeat the procedure to create a short between each capacitor terminal and chassis ground.If the capacitor has three terminals, use the same procedure to create a short circuit between each terminal and then from each terminal to ground.Disclaimer: Arnold's Service Company, Inc. assumes no liability for any incidental, consequential or other liability from the use of this information. All risks and damages, incidental or otherwise, arising from the use or misuse of the information contained herein are entirely the responsibility of the user. Although careful precaution has been taken in the preparation of this website information, we assume no responsibility for omissions or errors.
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