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We Sell Heating, Air Conditioning Parts & Supplies To You At Low Wholesale Prices!

Welcome to Our Electric Heat Repair Parts Page!

Hello Everyone! We Hope All of You Have A Happy, Healthful & Prosperous 2009!

This page contains some of the electric heating parts that I see fail and use most often every winter in our 16 year HVAC business. We wanted to make these parts available to you so you can be prepared if your heater goes out on one of those cold winter nights!

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Electric Furnace and Heat Pump Air Handler Parts:

The next series of parts that we sell are used on many electric furnaces and heat pump air handlers. The electric heat sequencer. The electric heat  sequencer allows the electric heat strips to come on and go off in a certain timed sequence. The delay in timing keeps from overloading your electrical system with large power load all at once. If the little points inside the sequencer get stuck on then you might have a fan or an electric heating element that stays on constantly. This could cause some real high electric bills if the sequencer is stuck and causing the electric heat to stay on constantly. 

Trouble shooting Electric Heat problems:

Problem: Electric heat will not come on or fan will not come on.

1. First and most important, Please make sure your electrical power is turned off before trying to repair or inspect any type of electrical appliance. I would recommend that you purchase an Volt Ohm meter for some of the trouble shooting procedures listed in this section. We have a reasonably price Volt, Ohm, Temperature testing meter on our Favorite HVAC Supplies & Tools Page.

2. Inspect the inside of the air handler or electric furnace for burnt wires. I find this to be a major problem. Electric furnaces use lots of electricity. Any connections that are the least bit loose inside the furnace will cause a heat build up, arcing and eventually a completely burned off connection. Before long the entire wire will be burnt off. Please see picture (compliments from one of our nice customers) below of a burnt heat sequencer. You can see where the heat build up and arcing has caused the terminals to completely burn off the left side! This looks like a three stack sequencer, because of the divisions in the layers of the sequencer:

I intend to include a wire repair kit with connectors before long on our site.

3. Check your breakers or fuses inside the air handler. Again, make sure your power is off. A good electrical tester multimeter would be nice to test your fuses. Many air handlers have fuses in them like the ones pictured below. You can remove these fuses and test them with a multimeter or if you do not have a multimeter, install new fuses to make sure they have not gone bad.

4. If you still are not getting electric heat then you should test your sequencers to make sure they are working. I made myself a tester so I could get portable 24 volts without having the furnace power turned on by using an old fan center connected to a junction box with alligator clips attached to the fan center. We sell new fan centers on our Fan Blower Controls Page.

Tester made from Fan Center.

Son's 13 Tennis shoe propping up tester. Ha!

When 24 volts is applied across the two bottom connections on this sequencer you should get continuity (a closed circuit) between the two terminals the one on the left M1 and the one on the right M2. You should also have continuity between M3 & M4. This might take 30 to 90 seconds after the 24 volts is applied before you get the continuity. If you do not get continuity then you might want to purchase one of the sequencers we have below.

Below we have electric furnace heat, fan sequencers with an opportunity for you to purchase. There are several different types of sequencers. In the trade we refer to them as, "1 stack," 2 stack," "3 stack."  The following was written directly from the installation instruction book. The sequencers we sell below are, "direct replacement units for sequencing both fan and heat. It can be used in a broad range of gas and electric heating equipment and many other applications where time delay is required. The sequencers we sell have a solid-state 24 volt heater, used to energize the control, and a variety of normally open contact sets. These contacts close and open within specified timings and are used to control the furnace fan and heating elements on demand from a room thermostat. These sequencers meet a wide variety of timing requirements and assures long life at high electrical loads as well as minimum radio and TV interference. Each sequencer is stamped with timing specifications. For example, H1-20 C40-110 means the ON time for heating is 1 to 20 seconds and the OFF time for cooling is 40 to 110 seconds. The first contacts turn ON first and turn of OFF last." Below we have pictures of some various sequencers with an opportunity for you to purchase.

Our first sequencer is the 2 stack model:

Our next sequencer is the 3 stack model:

Above 24A34-3 Side View:           Above 24A34-3 Top View:     

                           Jard Magnetics Low Voltage Universal Transformer #4031F-$15.00

Problem: Nothing works on your heating & air conditioning system. The fan will not blow in the fan "ON" position. The gas burners will not light, the outdoor air conditioning unit will not come on.

Solution: Use a Volt Ohm meter, set the meter to "Volts AC," to check and see if you are getting between 24-28 volts between your "C" and "R" terminals on your low voltage board, or between "R" the red low voltage thermostat wire and ground. You might have to tape the blower door safety switch, to keep the voltage on so you can perform this test. Turn your power back OFF after completing this test using the Volt meter. Check for fuses on the furnace control board to see if the furnace has a low voltage protection fuse. If the furnace has a fuse pull the fuse out and see if it is blown. If the fuse is blown check all your low voltage wiring to make sure it is not grounding out anywhere. I have seen pinched wires that are stuck between furnace doors, animals that have chewed through wires and just weathered low voltage wiring that has lost its insulation due to the hot sun over the years. Any wires that are touching together can cause the low voltage fuse to blow. The fuse protects the expensive furnace control board from getting burned up because of a short to ground. If the fuse is blown then I would go to the local hardware and purchase 5 to 6 new fuses. If you do not find the problem that is causing the fuse to blow right away then you will need more than one fuse for testing. If your fuse is OK or your furnace does not have a fuse, and you are not getting low voltage between the "C" and "R" terminals then you might need a low voltage transformer. I have seen some of the transformers just go bad. Below I explain the job of a transformer. We have pictures of the JARD Magnetics transformer with an opportunity for you to purchase.

What is a Low Voltage Transformer? The job of a low voltage transformer is to take 110 volts AC on the primary end, and transform or lower the voltage to 24 volts on the secondary end. That is why on the transformer label, below it has "PRI" 120, 208, 240 and SEC 24V 40VA. The transformer that we sell can be used with multiple voltages either 120 volts, 208 volts or 240 volts. You would hook up the right color coded wire to use the voltage that you have. The color coded voltage wiring directions are on top of the transformer. For example: The white and black wires would be used for 120 volts for most furnaces. The White and Orange wire would be hooked up if you were using the transformer to replace a bad transformer on an outdoor air conditioner or heat pump that uses 240 volts. 

Above close-up of label on top of transformer:

Transformer Part #TRR01729

If you have a Trane or American Standard furnace with a bad or noisy transformer, then we have the transformer for you! Below we have pictures with an opportunity for you to purchase. This is a Trane American Standard OEM transformer with a 115 volt primary and 24 volt secondary. It is rated at 35 VA. I see this transformer installed on many of the Trane American Standard Furnaces.

Gas Furnace Parts

Please click here to see our Furnace Ignitors page if you would like to purchase an extra furnace ignitor. Furnace ignitor failure is a common problem that I see every year in my HVAC business. Troubleshooting for furnace ignitors are included on our Furnace Ignitors page. Thank You!

Please click here to see our Furnace Flame Sensors Page. Furnace flame sensor failure is a common problem that I see every year in my HVAC business. Most of the time you can clean the flame sensor with light sand paper, steel wool or emery cloth. Reinstall the flame sensor, and you are as good as new. I have seen a few flame sensors go completely out where you have to replace them to get the furnace back in operation. Troubleshooting flame sensors are included on our Furnace Flame Sensors Page.

Below is a picture to help you identify what a flame sensor looks like. Below is a picture of three different types of flame sensors:

Another heating part that I see go out often is the hot surface ignitor. Please see our "Furnace Ignitors" page to purchase an extra ignitor in case yours goes out in the cold winter months: Please Click Here For Hot Surface Furnace Ignitors  Below we have a picture of one furnace ignitor: 

More heating parts coming soon! Please check back often. Thank You!

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